DIY LEDs - The write-up

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TheFishMan65 said:
Raven you keep finding constant voltage supplies. Here is the data sheet for the HLG-185.
Click to expand...


So I have no idea if this is constant or not, but it sounds good. Found it on the site Jimmy posted.
I think the more volts the better as I'm going to have 96 3.6V lamps, so that'd be the 48V?

http://www.meanwell.nl/Images/pdf/datasheets/PLP-45-spec.pdf


Also, how do I determine the amount of watts per power suppy? I did:

48V (driver)/4 (amount of volts on led)=12 leds per driver.
12*3W (amount of watts on led) =36watt

Then I chose the 45watt because it's another type and €10 cheaper than the 40W.

Is this the correct way of doing it?
 
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Raven if they all come on at the same time you may blow fuse, but if you can stagger them they should work. Although I am not very familiar with them. IMO you would still be better off with the HLGs.
 
patmack said:
My HLG 185-h D's came in on Friday. I plan to use 5 strings(12 LEDs per string) of RB xpe on one driver and 4 strings of CW xpg on another driver.
I am not really sure if or how to adjust the current/voltage on the HLG series drivers. Does anyone know?
Click to expand...

not sure what you mean that you have a D version. The HLGs come in 1 of 3 versions..... type 'Blank' which is adjustable via an I/O cable. Type 'A' which is adjustable with a screw driver through the case. Or Type 'B' which is adjustable 3 different ways: resistor across the dimming output wires, applying 0-10V to the dimming output wires, or using PWM on the dimming output wires.

Type A and B are straight forward. I do not know what the type 'Blank' looks like or what cable is needed.
 
Jimmy54 said:
According to mean well; - IP65 rated. Output voltage and constant current level can be adjusted through internal potential meter.
(Can access by removing the rubber stopper on the case.)
Click to expand...

That is for the "A" type. I have type B. I made a mistake and put type D in my original post. I Got confused with the meanwell ELN series. :spin2:
 
OK Guys. Try as I may, I still can't find clear answers to two of my questions.

1. I want to use 3W Cree LEDs over a tank with a 60" X 30" Footprint. If I go with the calculation of 1 LED for every 12 to 15 sq inches then I would need 120 to 150 LEDs. I don't see any info differentiating between 1W or 3W LEDs in this calculation. I am sure it will make a difference. 150ea of 3W Cree LEDs just seems like a lot of light to put over a tank. I am concerned that it would be too much for corals to handle regardless of depth.

Need input !!!!

2. Is there a reason to use multiple smaller Heat Sinks (5ea @ 24" X 12") or is that the same as using one large Heat Sink (60" X 24") ?

Please answer my questions instead of directing me to more reading that will yet further confuse me...

Thanks
 
Hdhuntr01 said:
OK Guys. Try as I may, I still can't find clear answers to two of my questions.

1. I want to use 3W Cree LEDs over a tank with a 60" X 30" Footprint. If I go with the calculation of 1 LED for every 12 to 15 sq inches then I would need 120 to 150 LEDs. I don't see any info differentiating between 1W or 3W LEDs in this calculation. I am sure it will make a difference. 150ea of 3W Cree LEDs just seems like a lot of light to put over a tank. I am concerned that it would be too much for corals to handle regardless of depth.

Need input !!!!

2. Is there a reason to use multiple smaller Heat Sinks (5ea @ 24" X 12") or is that the same as using one large Heat Sink (60" X 24") ?

Please answer my questions instead of directing me to more reading that will yet further confuse me...

Thanks
Click to expand...

On my 80x17x20 I'm putting 4 rows of 24 3W.
I'm very far from an expert on the subject but I determined this based on other people's designs, and I had people confirming it'd be good.

Hope this helps
 
Hdhuntr01 Those are the best guideline available for counts. You can try less, but be prepared to buy more. IMHO better too many turned down then not enough.

Smaller heatsink - might be cheaper, means you can take one down and fix if while the rest run if needed. still more expensive then U channel.
 
Hdhuntr01 said:
OK Guys. Try as I may, I still can't find clear answers to two of my questions.

1. I want to use 3W Cree LEDs over a tank with a 60" X 30" Footprint. If I go with the calculation of 1 LED for every 12 to 15 sq inches then I would need 120 to 150 LEDs. I don't see any info differentiating between 1W or 3W LEDs in this calculation. I am sure it will make a difference. 150ea of 3W Cree LEDs just seems like a lot of light to put over a tank. I am concerned that it would be too much for corals to handle regardless of depth.

Need input !!!!

2. Is there a reason to use multiple smaller Heat Sinks (5ea @ 24" X 12") or is that the same as using one large Heat Sink (60" X 24") ?

Please answer my questions instead of directing me to more reading that will yet further confuse me...

Thanks
Click to expand...

One of the best looking large tanks setups I have seen is a 72 x 24 with 136 LEDs over it and it looks to be just about right so I would say a 4 x 36 LED setup (144 LEDs) would be just about perfect.

I would consider building a rig out of 1 inch channel rather than going with a solid heatsink.
 
First of all I want to thank everybody on her for all the great information, no way I would have attempted this without the knowledge on this thread and the other diy led threads.

Second I have a few questions of my own just to see if I am going in the right direction.

I am doing a build for a 160 gallon tank 60Lx24Wx26H I ordered 96 cree leds total I am planning to run 4 parallel strings of 24. pretty much just like the build of necularheli.

I plan on doing 60 RB XP-E, 30CW XP-G, and 6 NW and using 5 60-48D per kcress advice.

I am still kind of lost on the driver situation, I want to do dimming and want to have dusk-dawn effect.

I am planning to use to 1-10v supply from my apex Neptune but need some advice on this also. anyone using it now? how hard was set up?

My question is do I need to have a resistor and fuse set up for all drivers or do I set up a master for all together.

Also do you anything extra to run the dimming and dusk-dawn effect?
I know I need pots, but do I run one per diver or one per color? and are the pots set up before or after the fuses and resistors?

Thanks in advance for all your help!
 
So i have been doing alot of reading on the subject and i believe i have come up with a plan and i was just up for a little more feedback.

Just to remind people this is basically what i plan to build
FullTankLayout.jpg

Bottom.jpg


I am planning on building 3 LED units for the tank. Because i dont plan on having coral from one side to the other i expect to only have to direct light at the centre 2 foot width of the tank. Essentially this means i need to directly light 6 foot by 2 foot by 2 foot deep. My plan is to build each light using 4 Thomas Research Product drivers with 48 LEDs (24 blue and 24 white CREE XP-Gs and XP-Es - still working out the actual colour mix). Each driver will operate a bank of 12 LEDs (two strings in blue and two strings in white). Having the four drivers will give me finer control over the lights. I plan to hook in the 1-10v controller from an Aquatronica to control dimming etc.

Any feedback is appreciated.
 
dirland, not familiar with the apex. Fuses are only needed if you run string in parallel sounds like you aren't. Resistors just make it easier to measure the current later. Recommended, but not required. I would guess if hooking to the Apex no additional electronics, but you may want some for testing if the Apex is far from where you are building.

jrizo1, if you can get the current you want with 14 then it is not too many.

kirsto71, I'm confused
3 panels seems odd with 4 drivers
"4 Thomas Research Product drivers with 48 LEDs " or Each driver will operate a bank of 12 LEDs
How big is the tank? "direct light at the centre 2 foot width of the tank" or "i need to directly light 6 foot by 2 foot by 2 foot deep" which sounds like the whole tank
 
Hdhuntr01 said:
OK Guys. Try as I may, I still can't find clear answers to two of my questions.

1. I want to use 3W Cree LEDs over a tank with a 60" X 30" Footprint. If I go with the calculation of 1 LED for every 12 to 15 sq inches then I would need 120 to 150 LEDs. I don't see any info differentiating between 1W or 3W LEDs in this calculation. I am sure it will make a difference. 150ea of 3W Cree LEDs just seems like a lot of light to put over a tank. I am concerned that it would be too much for corals to handle regardless of depth.

Need input !!!!

2. Is there a reason to use multiple smaller Heat Sinks (5ea @ 24" X 12") or is that the same as using one large Heat Sink (60" X 24") ?

Please answer my questions instead of directing me to more reading that will yet further confuse me...

Thanks
Click to expand...

All of the advice given are for the "3W" Cree LEDs. The guide is based using XR-E LEDs. There will be some variation whether you use XR-E, XP-G or XL-M bulbs and how much amperage you run through them.

If you don't mind the extra work, I would use 5 smaller heat sinks rather than 1 larger one. You will get better airflow around them and they are more versitile.

CJ
 
dirland said:
I am doing a build for a 160 gallon tank 60Lx24Wx26H I ordered 96 cree leds total I am planning to run 4 parallel strings of 24. pretty much just like the build of necularheli.

I plan on doing 60 RB XP-E, 30CW XP-G, and 6 NW and using 5 60-48D per kcress advice.
Click to expand...

That's too many LEDs per string. You can run two parallel strings of 12 LEDs per string with that driver.

dirland said:
I am still kind of lost on the driver situation, I want to do dimming and want to have dusk-dawn effect.

I am planning to use to 1-10v supply from my apex Neptune but need some advice on this also. anyone using it now? how hard was set up?
Click to expand...

It was pretty easy to physically set up. The programming was a little bit more involved. I can help you out some more when you actually get to that stage in the build.

dirland said:
My question is do I need to have a resistor and fuse set up for all drivers or do I set up a master for all together.
Click to expand...

If you are running them in parallel, you need a fuse for each string. You can put a resistor in each string as well, but it is not required.

dirland said:
Also do you anything extra to run the dimming and dusk-dawn effect?

I know I need pots, but do I run one per diver or one per color? and are the pots set up before or after the fuses and resistors?

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Click to expand...

You don't need anything else. You don't need pots. The driver will do the dimming.

CJ
 
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