I am using the apex to dim some 60-48D's right now. If you look in the unofficial Apex user guide in the neptune systems sponsor thread it shows how to program them to do the sunrise/sunset. There is also some info on reefledlights.com. If those don't make sense PM me and I will be more than happy to help.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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I am using the apex to dim some 60-48D's right now. If you look in the unofficial Apex user guide in the neptune systems sponsor thread it shows how to program them to do the sunrise/sunset. There is also some info on reefledlights.com. If those don't make sense PM me and I will be more than happy to help.
HeisenbergReef
New member
I have a question I cant seem to find the answer to in this massive amount of info:
When choosing a power supply, choosing the proper voltage is easy, but I want to know if the amount of amps the power supply is capable of should me my requirements exactly or if it should exceed it by some amount? (and no, i am not using meanwells)
example: I will have 10 strings of 4 leds driven at 700ma. So my requirements are about 15v and 7a. Do I want a power supply of 15v and 7a or one with 15v and more than 7a so that it is not being used at 100% load???
Thanks
When choosing a power supply, choosing the proper voltage is easy, but I want to know if the amount of amps the power supply is capable of should me my requirements exactly or if it should exceed it by some amount? (and no, i am not using meanwells)
example: I will have 10 strings of 4 leds driven at 700ma. So my requirements are about 15v and 7a. Do I want a power supply of 15v and 7a or one with 15v and more than 7a so that it is not being used at 100% load???
Thanks
I set the drivers to 100% and then adjusted the XPGs to 1000 mA(1 amp) and the XPEs to 750 mA. Reefledlights has a good video on youtube or their website about adjusting the drivers. If everyone cant tell I am really happy with their service.
I remember discussing this either in this thread or in the DIY driver thread, but yes it is there somewhere. :fun2:
In summary, I think kcress recommended that you use up to 80% of the power supply's max output and no more than that.
So if you will be using 7A max, then you should get a power supply that can output at least 8.75A.
CJO
New member
I haven't done any research on the other models. You would need a drive that puts out around 80 VDC. However, that is a higher voltage than what many people recommend (or consider safe), especially near salt water. Can you not go with 12 per string as has been commonly done?
CJ
CJ
dirland
Member
I would need to run 8 drivers then for 96 leds, right?
I was thinking about the 24 per string because thats how kcress did his build and successfully ran the 24 with one driver and ran the leds at around 700 ma each.
For what I understand running them at this rate will help keep heat down and also make led last longer.
I was thinking about the 24 per string because thats how kcress did his build and successfully ran the 24 with one driver and ran the leds at around 700 ma each.
For what I understand running them at this rate will help keep heat down and also make led last longer.
You should be able to run 8 strings of 12 LEDs on 4 meanwell ELN-48 dirvers and still get the same outcome.
You always better understand your own ramblings.:hmm3:
The tank will be 6 foot long and 3 foot wide but i will only be aquascaping down the centre line of the tank. Therefore i only need to provide higher light levels to that area where the corals will be placed. Secondly there will be 3 LED fixtures each one will have 48 LEDS in a set of 4 strings with 12 LEDs. With each string driven by its own driver.
Hey, could use a little help on testing my drivers. I am building a 96 LED rig being run by 2 HLG-150H-48B drivers (4 strings of 12 run in parallel per driver). I will eventually have the drivers hooked up to a ALC module via RKL. So the driver has NO internal pot to lower the current to do some tests. It only has the 2 external blue/white wires. I wanted to hook a driver up to a single LED to ensure the power is wired good, but I don't want to throw 3.2 amps at a single LED.
2.8 amps spread over 4 strings of 12 LEDs being run in parallel is 700ma per string. The drivers are rated at 3.2 amps, so if run at full power that would be 800ma per string, which is okay if hooked up to all the LEDs. I don't plan on running at full power once up and running.
To do some testing/balancing, I figured it would be best to turn down the power. How should I go about this? Should I just get a temp manual pot to hook up to a driver? I would need to ensure it is turned down when the driver is powered up for the first time, how do I do that without frying any LEDs? Should I forget the single LED test, and just hook up to the entire rig (and hope for the best), then turn down with a manual pot? Can I plug in the driver without any LEDs and turn it down with a manual pot, maybe just wiring my meter and testing the output that way? How would I do this? Hope this is clear, let me know if not. Thanks.
2.8 amps spread over 4 strings of 12 LEDs being run in parallel is 700ma per string. The drivers are rated at 3.2 amps, so if run at full power that would be 800ma per string, which is okay if hooked up to all the LEDs. I don't plan on running at full power once up and running.
To do some testing/balancing, I figured it would be best to turn down the power. How should I go about this? Should I just get a temp manual pot to hook up to a driver? I would need to ensure it is turned down when the driver is powered up for the first time, how do I do that without frying any LEDs? Should I forget the single LED test, and just hook up to the entire rig (and hope for the best), then turn down with a manual pot? Can I plug in the driver without any LEDs and turn it down with a manual pot, maybe just wiring my meter and testing the output that way? How would I do this? Hope this is clear, let me know if not. Thanks.
kcress
New member
S&KGray summed up my rule. Don't push a switcher past more than about 85% or cooling becomes very important and life time will be reduced.
I don't apply that to Meanwells as they generally expect to be be pushed to 100%. Also with something like a MW they are actually not at 100% when running at their rating.
TheFishMan65
New member
kirsto71, Well I think you may end up with your LEDs turned way down. I have 48 over 75 lighting the whole thing. Otherwise I sounds ok.
TheFishMan65
New member
chris023, The HLG-150H-48B has a minimum output voltage of 24 volts DO NOT HOOK UP ONE LED you probably need 8-12 depends on LED type. At that point you should be able to hook up a potentiometer to run just one string.
Cool, thanks!
Also, it may sound obvious, but I just want to make sure that turning the dial on a external pot all the way counter clockwise before firing up the driver will actually start the driver at full dim, correct?
It depends on which lead you have the pot wired up. Usually if it's turned 'as far away' from the outside lead (assuming the center and one outside lead are connected), then it should be the max resistance (dimmest), but I have to admit I haven't tried the drivers in this thread.
I would recommend checking it with an ohmeter to make sure. Although, I would wire it up so it wouldn't blow an LED if it's wrong. Then just fiddle
I would recommend checking it with an ohmeter to make sure. Although, I would wire it up so it wouldn't blow an LED if it's wrong. Then just fiddle
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