DIY LEDs - The write-up

[TheFishMan65]

Yes, check with an ohm meter. I would also wire it in whatever makes sense. I (you may not) think of clockwise being brighter (maybe I'm a morning person and the sun gets brighter). Maybe a night person would think the other way. Either way wire them all the same. If you get one backwards from what you want just swap the outer 2 connections.

 

[chris023]

It depends on which lead you have the pot wired up. Usually if it's turned 'as far away' from the outside lead (assuming the center and one outside lead are connected), then it should be the max resistance (dimmest), but I have to admit I haven't tried the drivers in this thread.

I would recommend checking it with an ohmeter to make sure. Although, I would wire it up so it wouldn't blow an LED if it's wrong. Then just fiddle

== John ==​

Yes, check with an ohm meter. I would also wire it in whatever makes sense. I (you may not) think of clockwise being brighter (maybe I'm a morning person and the sun gets brighter). Maybe a night person would think the other way. Either way wire them all the same. If you get one backwards from what you want just swap the outer 2 connections.

My metering skills are for sh.. I really need it spelled out for me. Below is my meter. Can u explain on how to test. Here is what I assume:
1) Wire up the pot to the driver.
2) Do NOT plug in the driver
3) Plug in the wall wart to the pot
4) Use the meter to test the power to the pot (what setting on meter? what values should I expect on meter?)
5) Adjust the pot and see the power change on the meter.
6) Turn pot to full dim
7) wire LEDs to driver, fire up driver yada yada yada...

 

[TheFishMan65]

The HLG does not need power to the pot. Wire the HLG between center and an outside pin. Adjust the resistance to 1k ohm IIRC (whatever it says in the datasheet).

 

[chris023]

The HLG does not need power to the pot. Wire the HLG between center and an outside pin. Adjust the resistance to 1k ohm IIRC (whatever it says in the datasheet).

Awesome! Thanks!

 

[RokleM]

Highly debating a switch from 250 MH to LED on my 100g cube (30x30x27). Tank is somewhat warm as it is, and I'm moving soon to an even warmer climate. The tank is lit by a Radium 20k right now, LPS and zoa only, so no super huge PAR requirements. I DO have an Apex.

I'm not a LED noob, but VERY far from an expert too. I did a DIY frag tank setup a year or so ago as well as having a PAR38 for my nano.

I'll try to get an updated shot, but here's the general layout:

A decent sized center back wall overflow that is roughly 6x6. Corals are dispersed throughout the rest of the tank from back left to back right. Highlights are acans on a couple shelves in the middle of the tank (both height and front to back) and mostly zoas on the sand in the near future.

Doing some reading, it looks like 36-48 LED's is the area I'm shooting for. I don't want it TOO bright as to bleach out the LPS, and I like a good 14-20k look with a decent amount of blue.

1.5-2 to 1 ratio of blue/white
XP-G R5 Cool white
XP-E Royal Blue
Handfull of warm white (4-6?)
Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable drivers

So one of the spots I need help with is the more exact number of LED's, optics, and heatsinks needed for this setup.

2 or 3 x Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 16" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs?
2 or 3 x Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs?
60 degree?

 

[TheFishMan65]

My $0.02. I would do 48. Use U channel since it is cheaper. How far over the tank?

 

[patmack]

Wow nice looking tank!
I dont really like the 4.25 x 16" heat sinks... The seem too small for 24 LEDs. It is not a cooling issue rather not enough room for the leds.
You might be able to get by with 36-48 LEDs on one 18"x8.46 predrilled heat sink. That could get you a really clean look!
I really like the ELN 48d I have on a test fixture that are hooked up to my apex.

Also have you checked out reefledlights website? They are really helpful if you cant find anything on their website just call them.

 

[Ninja1]

I really like the ELN 48d I have on a test fixture that are hooked up to my apex.

I will be getting my apex soon and curious how it can be connected to my DIY led. I have the ELN 48D drivers and wanted to do the same. Would I be connecting the dimmer wires on the drivers to the apex?

 

[Gold Stripe]

Visit the Neptune forum and look at the unofficial guide. It explains it all. You will use a modified ethernet cable to connect the dim wires from the 48D to the v1/v2 port of the Apex.

 

[Ninja1]

Visit the Neptune forum and look at the unofficial guide. It explains it all. You will use a modified ethernet cable to connect the dim wires from the 48D to the v1/v2 port of the Apex.

Sweet- thank you so much! I didn't know about the Neptune forum (duh). Thx

 

[RokleM]

My $0.02. I would do 48. Use U channel since it is cheaper. How far over the tank?

I think I'd prefer to avoid U channel as I don't want to have a strap a ton of fans all over the until if I can avoid it. Height isn't really an issue, it can go up to 2'-3' up if necessary. I'd like it at least 12".

Wow nice looking tank!
I dont really like the 4.25 x 16" heat sinks... The seem too small for 24 LEDs. It is not a cooling issue rather not enough room for the leds.
You might be able to get by with 36-48 LEDs on one 18"x8.46 predrilled heat sink. That could get you a really clean look!
I really like the ELN 48d I have on a test fixture that are hooked up to my apex.

Also have you checked out reefledlights website? They are really helpful if you cant find anything on their website just call them.

No, I haven't hit up many other sites yet. My concern on many of the heat sink configurations is the fact they aren't made for a cube. For example, a 18x8 would still be a long type of setup vs square. That's why I'm wondering if two or three heat sinks spread over the top may be better.

 

[Ninja1]

Hoping someone can help me out with my wiring, this is what I drew up before solders:

Most of the threads and DIY stuff show LEDs in 2 rows. Im not sure how to go about it with 3 rows and 2 drivers. Thanks for reading.

 

[Gold Stripe]

48D+ to + on first LED. 48D- to - of last LED.

Your diagram appears to have 4 wires going to each LED in the center row. You can only have 2 wires to each LED. One + and one -.

Layout should be (48D+ ~ LED ~ LED ~ LED ~ LED ~ 48D-)

 

[Ninja1]

48D+ to + on first LED. 48D- to - of last LED.

Your diagram appears to have 4 wires going to each LED in the center row. You can only have 2 wires to each LED. One + and one -.

Layout should be (48D+ ~ LED ~ LED ~ LED ~ LED ~ 48D-)

Ok, so I did the diagram again. I rewired it but now shouldn't I connect the two sets of lighting together? I know there are two drivers but shouldn't it be all together? Sorry, Im just trying to understand it all b/c Im trying to think ahead since I will be connecting this to an Apex later.

Here she is:

[/IMG]

Thanks for reading- Im trying to figure this out so I can get my enclosure tonight.

 

[Gold Stripe]

Are all the LEDs the same color? You want all the blue LEDs on a string connected to a driver and all the white LEDs on a separate string connected to the other driver. They do NOT connect together. They run independently of each other so that you can adjust the power of each string to reach the mixed color that you prefer.

 

[Gold Stripe]

When you get your Apex you will connect one driver to v1 and one driver to v2 so that you can dim them separately. That way you can have the blues come on from dawn to dusk and the whites come on for the middle of the day.

 

[Gold Stripe]

Read the following thread about 10 times. It is the best I have seen with regard to testing your setup so you dont blow it up. Keep in mind that it shows 2 strings run in parallel from 1 driver and you are running 2 strings from 2 separate drivers so there is no balancing needed but the explaination of testing current and polarity of individual LEDs is dead on. Start about post #74

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1973462&highlight=jp

 

[TheFishMan65]

I get the idea for the wiring just make sure it is + to -. The left hand string upper right LED will not light as pictured.

 

[LRStar]

Wow. Finally read this entire thread from start to finish. The ENTIRE thread.

I'd like to thank everyone for the great information.

Its amazing how short this thread would be without all the people saying the same things over and over. "I didn't read the whole thread but I have this question" over and over. Thousands of times.

Other than my little rant...

I have used the information listed here to setup a 2 xre and 1 xpe setup on my baby fluval edge. Passive cooled with a Xeon processor heatsink crammed in the miniature canopy. I'll have to post photos later as the iPad doesn't do that so well.

I am now building a rig for my 29 biocube, and soon a illuminata rig like sentoki or whatever his name is. Big big inspiration for me. His thread has made LEDs attractive to my wife, who then handed me a credit card.

I am def going to be changing my design (hardware designer) to suit my tastes, and hope those ideas inspire others as well.

Anyways. Big props to the folks relentlessly answering the same questions over and over.

 

[Ninja1]

Read the following thread about 10 times. It is the best I have seen with regard to testing your setup so you dont blow it up. Keep in mind that it shows 2 strings run in parallel from 1 driver and you are running 2 strings from 2 separate drivers so there is no balancing needed but the explaination of testing current and polarity of individual LEDs is dead on. Start about post #74

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1973462&highlight=jp

Ok- gotcha! Here it is as of now:

[/IMG]

Now Ill read that thread again- its just that Im not familiar with resistors. I understand the benefits of them- looking up that portion now.



This right here made perfect sense- thank you!!!
"They do NOT connect together. They run independently of each other so that you can adjust the power of each string to reach the mixed color that you prefer. "

.