TheFishMan65
New member
What happens if you run with no pot?
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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Haven't tried it... The spec states running "Open" will run 102-108%. I am assuming that "Open" means with no pot. I don't want to take the chance of running full power and blowing anything.
kcress
New member
A wise decision!
Kcress,
Im pulling this from another thread but why do you recommend these fuses on Kigi-key over these on allied or radio shack?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=F2313-ND
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7400390#tab=Specs
(for XPGs)
and
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7400398
(for RB XPEs)
They are rated for 250 volt is that ok?
Also found some from radio shack...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102739&filterName=Type&filterValue=1.1-2A
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103753&filterName=Type&filterValue=0.25-1A
Im pulling this from another thread but why do you recommend these fuses on Kigi-key over these on allied or radio shack?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=F2313-ND
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7400390#tab=Specs
(for XPGs)
and
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7400398
(for RB XPEs)
They are rated for 250 volt is that ok?
Also found some from radio shack...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102739&filterName=Type&filterValue=1.1-2A
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103753&filterName=Type&filterValue=0.25-1A
Test Specifications for the Cooper Bussmann fuses: Carry 100%, open at 135% within 1 hour, 200% within 120 seconds.
And than have a look at the datasheet for the Pico fuses.
And than have a look at the datasheet for the Pico fuses.
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mmm I saw that... maybe what I want is a 1.2 amp very fast blow like the one from digi-key
1.2amp for the xpg and maybe .8 for the xpe.
kcress
New member
The main reason is the convenience. How do you use any of those alternatives? You have to buy an expensive fuse holder. You really should use terminal blocks as they isolate and suspend, in-the-air, the resistors. So one more terminal block and you have the fuses covered.
But you certainly can use fast or ultra-fast cylinder fuses.
But you certainly can use fast or ultra-fast cylinder fuses.
Ya I looked at those 1.25"x.25" fuse holders at radio shack .com and they are $3 each... I dont really feel like spending close to $40 on fuse holders.
Ok sounds like Ill use the 1.25 amp "littlefuse" for the xpg and 1 amp "littlefuse" for the xpe RB. They dont make a .8 amp.
Thanks for the help!!!
Ok sounds like Ill use the 1.25 amp "littlefuse" for the xpg and 1 amp "littlefuse" for the xpe RB. They dont make a .8 amp.
Thanks for the help!!!
I'm going to hook the HLG 185Bs up to an apex so I don't really think the pots are required are they? Do you just use the 1 ohm resistor for a sampling resistor? Sooo I wasn't planning on resistors. Would it reduce the life of the drivers much running them at 102-108% of max current?
Edit!
Edit!
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michael_in_nc
New member
IMO, the pot is meant for *initial* setup adjustment. The 0-10v option is meant for an external driver, using a powered pot is a lot of work that's not necessary if you're just going to set it and leave it anyway. The PWM is just another type of control interface. Pulse Width Modulation. This is again meant for a controller interface.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
No you don't need pots if your going to use a controller. I thought the APEX was 0-10V so the dimming will occur through your controller...I believe the hook up is via a modified ethernet cable but go check their forum I believe everything you need to know about dimming LEDs via their controller can be found there. With 0-10V controlling dimming you won't ever exceed 100%
1 ohm resistors are for measuring current through each string via the voltage across the resistor.
I use it to mix white to blue and you're right I don't really change it once its set. With my HLG I am also using an ELN in the fixture and since that required a powered pot I just went ahead and used the same source for the HLG. Shortly after I did all the work i did the old forehead slap....coulda just went with the 100k pot...but I didn't have one anyway. Its really not that much work but it is something more to do.
On my next and last build for my 120 I am using 2 HLGs and thinking about a simple PWM controller like the one from Rapid.
kcress
New member
As far as I'm concerned the resistors are mandatory for parallel setups. Eliminating them is the definition of "penny wise and pound foolish".
Without them you have no viable method for checking your string balance.
They have NO bearing on the power thru the strings. They will not protect you system from over current-ing your strings.
You should also NOT try to wring out a new build with full output. That's asking for trouble. Use a pot or just fixed resistors to drop the output, by the control leads, to something like 30% before turning on your build for the first time.
Without them you have no viable method for checking your string balance.
They have NO bearing on the power thru the strings. They will not protect you system from over current-ing your strings.
You should also NOT try to wring out a new build with full output. That's asking for trouble. Use a pot or just fixed resistors to drop the output, by the control leads, to something like 30% before turning on your build for the first time.
Hooked up the 100k pot and all is well. Thanks again. Just have to do some balancing as I am getting a couple strings that are around 770ma and a couple around 680ma. The other 4 are good at just around 700ma.
How do you all test individual LEDs with the lights so bright!?!?!? Do you test at the desired ma (e.g. 700)? I would imagine so as you would see the larger swings in voltage. Anyways, just don't want to go blind.
How do you all test individual LEDs with the lights so bright!?!?!? Do you test at the desired ma (e.g. 700)? I would imagine so as you would see the larger swings in voltage. Anyways, just don't want to go blind.
Looks like I have some more reading to do. Seems like there is a lot of good info on the ELN drivers but not so much on the HLG builds.
I was planning on using a ampmeter for checking to see if they are balanced.
What size of resistor will I need? resistance and amp or watt rating?
TheFishMan65
New member
Either 1 ohm 3-10 watt voltage is the current or 0.1 ohm 1/4-1 watt voltage * 10 is the current.
kcress
New member
The Man has it!
You cannot keep soldering and un-soldering a fist full of wires to keep inserting and de-serting an ammeter!
Every time you interrupt a string, temperatures all over the build change which changes all the readings. (see Heisenberg Principal - with a vengeance!)
With the resistors you can check all the string currents on a regular basis with easy probing and NO changes from the normal operating mode.
You cannot keep soldering and un-soldering a fist full of wires to keep inserting and de-serting an ammeter!
Every time you interrupt a string, temperatures all over the build change which changes all the readings. (see Heisenberg Principal - with a vengeance!)
With the resistors you can check all the string currents on a regular basis with easy probing and NO changes from the normal operating mode.
I see I see so to answer my question. Yes the resistors are just for sampling the current across the LEDs. Not a must but they make balancing the strings easier. I'm going to use the solder less connectors for my main build so balancing will hopefully be easier. Would anyone benefit from me doing a build thread?
kcress
New member
Hard to say. If you're going to avoid using the resistors I'd rather you didn't do a build thread as I'd rather not having to explain a bazzillion times why it was a bad idea to avoid using them. If you're going to use them I would always welcome a build thread. We might all learn something or yours might be the clearest one yet that we can refer others to.
So i have continued to research this LED thing and discovered how little i know about it all.
So this is where i am at:
1. I am rebuilding my tank and will have an 1800x900 tank 650 deep (less to top of sand bed). The rockwork will be concentrated along the centre line of the tank so i dont need to focus on high intensity lighting from edge to edge. That is i will focus the light on where the coral will be. There will be 3 fixtures with a total of 48 LEDs in each
2. I have decided to drive the LEDs at 1000ma to get that little more out of them and give me some flexibility
3. The drivers will be Thomas Research drivers that are dimmable (each lighting fixture will have 5 drivers)
4. I will be using my aquatronica to control the dimming with a module in each fixture that will dim 4 different lighting groups to get the most out of the dimmability of the LEDs
5. I will be using a mix of LED colours to get the best specturm i can for viewing and hopefully for the corals (number one priority)
6. I will try to build each fixure to the same quality of some of the more expensive units out there but hopefully with the added opportunity of upgrading and repairability
7. Each fixture will have temperature control which will monitor the heatsink temperature and start up the fans as required
8. This stuff is expensive - each fixture will cost somewhere in the vicinity of $850 but they will have control of five diferent LED colour groups using a computer controlled system (Aquatronica) and allow very fine manipulation of colour and sequncing of the LEDs.
This picture shows each LED colour group and the total 48 LED layout for each fixture.
So this is where i am at:
1. I am rebuilding my tank and will have an 1800x900 tank 650 deep (less to top of sand bed). The rockwork will be concentrated along the centre line of the tank so i dont need to focus on high intensity lighting from edge to edge. That is i will focus the light on where the coral will be. There will be 3 fixtures with a total of 48 LEDs in each
2. I have decided to drive the LEDs at 1000ma to get that little more out of them and give me some flexibility
3. The drivers will be Thomas Research drivers that are dimmable (each lighting fixture will have 5 drivers)
4. I will be using my aquatronica to control the dimming with a module in each fixture that will dim 4 different lighting groups to get the most out of the dimmability of the LEDs
5. I will be using a mix of LED colours to get the best specturm i can for viewing and hopefully for the corals (number one priority)
6. I will try to build each fixure to the same quality of some of the more expensive units out there but hopefully with the added opportunity of upgrading and repairability
7. Each fixture will have temperature control which will monitor the heatsink temperature and start up the fans as required
8. This stuff is expensive - each fixture will cost somewhere in the vicinity of $850 but they will have control of five diferent LED colour groups using a computer controlled system (Aquatronica) and allow very fine manipulation of colour and sequncing of the LEDs.
This picture shows each LED colour group and the total 48 LED layout for each fixture.
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