DIY LEDs - The write-up

[L98-Z]

I was also thinking that the angle without a lens was 90 degrees, but the datasheet seems to indicate 115-130 degrees. So you'll be increasing the output twice as much by the lens, not counting in the loss from the lens. I guess it'll really depend on how much is lost through the distance travels.

 

[widmer]

simple trigonometry tells me that using 40 degree optics would cast me a 60-inch wide beam at six feet (ref: 72*tan(40deg)) whereas my 6 degree optics were supposed to cast me a ~8-inch wide beam, (alas the world is not a perfect place and it's giving me a 12-inch wide beam...). The idea is to make sure all of the light is squeezed into the footprint of the aquarium.

As far as particulate matter in the air is concerned, it will be really interesting to see if the intense beam of light will in fact be visible because of this. Last night when I was playing around, I had the LED GROSSLY underpowered at something like 1/8 capacity due to the fact that my drivers aren't here yet and I don't want to fry it...

PS a quick way to simply check if one of these LEDs is working/verify polarity is to simply take off the battery cover on the average 2-AA-powered TV remote, and tuck a wire in on the positive and negative terminal to get ~3V at the ends of the wires. No worries about frying it at such low voltage...

 

[L98-Z]

simple trigonometry tells me that using 40 degree optics would cast me a 60-inch wide beam at six feet (ref: 72*tan(40deg)) whereas my 6 degree optics were supposed to cast me a ~8-inch wide beam, (alas the world is not a perfect place and it's giving me a 12-inch wide beam...). The idea is to make sure all of the light is squeezed into the footprint of the aquarium.

As far as particulate matter in the air is concerned, it will be really interesting to see if the intense beam of light will in fact be visible because of this. Last night when I was playing around, I had the LED GROSSLY underpowered at something like 1/8 capacity due to the fact that my drivers aren't here yet and I don't want to fry it...

PS a quick way to simply check if one of these LEDs is working/verify polarity is to simply take off the battery cover on the average 2-AA-powered TV remote, and tuck a wire in on the positive and negative terminal to get ~3V at the ends of the wires. No worries about frying it at such low voltage...

I understand all this, I'm just curious how much is loss through the transmission. I was looking for a physics book up here at work but I can't seem to find one. Just to give me a general idea. I was expecting a decent loss, but perhaps I'm wrong on this. In fact, this thread seems to indicate I will be, with his already being 4' in the air.

 

[kcress]

I wonder how much light is lost over that 6 foot of distance though.

Essentially nothing. The added benefit is that the cone of light entering the tank will also be expanded so you will not get intense visible cones at the top of the water column like you could with, say, 40 degree optics mounted directly above the tank.

Having the lights several feet above the tank is great as the heat is removed, the splash protection is unneeded, work in the tank can still be lit, the fixture doesn't need to be removable, and the light rays can be more parallel.

That's how I'd do it.

Oh, and just the removal of the splash guard would increase the tank light verse 5 feet of air travel.

 

[AndyReef]

I am using 8 degree optics on my tank. The fixture is only about 12 inches above the water currently and due to the incredible concentration of the light I am only running the LEDs at 30% on my ALC. I am planning on rebuilding the top of the tank to suspend the lights up a bit higher. However, I do have 30" of depth so I won't be mounting it 6 feet up like Widmer.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

If anyone cares to dig out liveforphysics' build thread (a year or two old by now I bet) I seem to remember him having some interesting material about optics. It was in regards to xenon lamps but should apply to LEDs as well.

I'm in 100% agreement that with super-tight optics, the loss over a "long" distance will be small at best. We're so used to thinking about huge losses over short distances in this hobby thanks to MH and fluorescent lighting, but a very small point source of light with a tight optic is a very different animal. Even a 20 degree optic makes a vast difference, much less a SIX degree optic!

 

[widmer]

If anyone cares to dig out liveforphysics' build thread (a year or two old by now I bet) I seem to remember him having some interesting material about optics. It was in regards to xenon lamps but should apply to LEDs as well.

Sure. Liveforphysics' build thread is linked to in the first post of my thread about xenon projection lamps. Lol makes me realize how long I've been pushing the light fixture on the ceiling. Too bad I haven't gotten around to it physically (no pun intended) until now. Here you go:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1603868

 

[ÂN‡h¤Ñ¥]

is this pack any good you think? I wanted to try fitting it into my nanocube hqi

http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-34/12-LED-DIY-Kit/Detail

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

It's OK but uses Q4 bin XR-E cool whites, instead of the more efficient Q5. I guess on a small tank it would be OK, but on a larger tank, or one you were planning on keeping a long time, the more-efficient Q5 would make more sense. Also, you're locked into a color ratio with that kit, since there's only one driver - you can't dim the two colors separately. For small tanks where lots of control is desired, using smaller-LED-count drivers like buckpucks makes a little more sense IMHO.

 

[james3370]

It's OK but uses Q4 bin XR-E cool whites, instead of the more efficient Q5. I guess on a small tank it would be OK, but on a larger tank, or one you were planning on keeping a long time, the more-efficient Q5 would make more sense. Also, you're locked into a color ratio with that kit, since there's only one driver - you can't dim the two colors separately. For small tanks where lots of control is desired, using smaller-LED-count drivers like buckpucks makes a little more sense IMHO.

agreed. the tank i was planning was going to have (18) LEDs....9 white & 9 blue. i had intended on doing (3) buckpucks (all dimmable for intensity & color choice as well) & (3) power supplies so i could do a staggered timing schedule.......(6) blues -> (3)white/(3)blues -> (6) whites <- reverse for sunset

 

[hostage-46]

After 10 years... I'm back

After 10 years... I'm back

Well my head is spinning after going through this thread...

Hello all, been lurking a bit, I'm finally getting around to setting up a tank after being away from over 10 years. My how technology has come along! My initial notion began as a nano setup, now it's up to a 50 gallon display with a sump, oh well, might as well use that space!

I need to go through this thread in more detail, but I figured someone might be chartiable and offer a few quick pointers...

My last tank had MH and I just loved the look. I'm now enamored with LED, it seems to offer;
Longer bulb life
Lower power consumption
Lower heat output
Ability to dim

I have not yet decided on coral specifics, what I did learn last time around is that I will not allow lighting to be a limiting factor. So that said....

My display tank will be a 50 gallon, 36"X18"X18". My approach is "less is more"
Commercial LED is just too pricey, and frankly I like the DIY route.


What components should I plan for, power, bulbs, optics etc. Is there a good source of a comprehensive LED writeup?

Dan in Dallas...

 

[ÂN‡h¤Ñ¥]

agreed. the tank i was planning was going to have (18) LEDs....9 white & 9 blue. i had intended on doing (3) buckpucks (all dimmable for intensity & color choice as well) & (3) power supplies so i could do a staggered timing schedule.......(6) blues -> (3)white/(3)blues -> (6) whites <- reverse for sunset

I plan on using the leds purely for looks. I just want them to make my corals pop. I dont need them for coral growth whatsover.

that being said, what is a good setup you would recommened for my nano HQI?

thanks for the help so far too

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Adding 12 LEDs to a nano HQI and leaving the stock light in place would be like putting another MH under there. I hope you're not gonna run them at the same time as the MH lamp!

If you want "pop" in addition to the MH that's already in there, just add two or three royal blues. Use a buckpuck and an appropriate DC power supply.

If you're talking about using the LEDs when the MH is off, then you need to consider how bright you want it. 12 LEDs run at the currents most people here are using is pretty intense.

So, can you describe how you plan on using these in relation to the stock lighting?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Well my head is spinning after going through this thread...

Hello all, been lurking a bit, I'm finally getting around to setting up a tank after being away from over 10 years. My how technology has come along! My initial notion began as a nano setup, now it's up to a 50 gallon display with a sump, oh well, might as well use that space!

I need to go through this thread in more detail, but I figured someone might be chartiable and offer a few quick pointers...

My last tank had MH and I just loved the look. I'm now enamored with LED, it seems to offer;
Longer bulb life
Lower power consumption
Lower heat output
Ability to dim

I have not yet decided on coral specifics, what I did learn last time around is that I will not allow lighting to be a limiting factor. So that said....

My display tank will be a 50 gallon, 36"X18"X18". My approach is "less is more"
Commercial LED is just too pricey, and frankly I like the DIY route.


What components should I plan for, power, bulbs, optics etc. Is there a good source of a comprehensive LED writeup?

Dan in Dallas...

You got the advantages pretty much right on.

I'd aim for 36 - 48 LEDs in that setup, depending on corals, drive current, optics, etc.

Can you give us some more specifics on what you want? Intensity, controllability, color, etc. If you were to do MH again, what would you put over the tank (knowing that, we can suggest a "comparable" LED rig).

 

[ÂN‡h¤Ñ¥]

Adding 12 LEDs to a nano HQI and leaving the stock light in place would be like putting another MH under there. I hope you're not gonna run them at the same time as the MH lamp!

If you want "pop" in addition to the MH that's already in there, just add two or three royal blues. Use a buckpuck and an appropriate DC power supply.

If you're talking about using the LEDs when the MH is off, then you need to consider how bright you want it. 12 LEDs run at the currents most people here are using is pretty intense.

So, can you describe how you plan on using these in relation to the stock lighting?

well I would like to have them running as the same time as th MH lights. I just said 12 because I thought that 3 would not provide any pop whatsoever while the mh light was on. I also want them to cover the whole tank and not have a "spotlight" effect and I want to have the tank really blue when I choose to put on just the LEDs, sort of like actinics.

does this clear it up?

thanks

 

[ÂN‡h¤Ñ¥]

I was actually going to go order my nanocube now and I saw this. How does it compare? would it give the same pop as leds?

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...ht_420_460nm_T5_Retrofit_Tube_w_Power_Supply_ _Mounting_Clips_LED_Light_Fixtures_for_Aquariums&vendor=IceCap&idProduct=IC3971&IdCategory=FILTFILD&tab=2

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Sorry, that link is broken.

Honestly, if you're going to bother with LEDs in a tank that small, just get a nano with no stock lighting and go all-LED.

If you REALLY only want the LED for "actinic" supplementation, use LEDs with wide field of view (Luxeon Rebels) and/or a diffusion lens. Any more than 3 or 4 is going to add a significant amount of intensity. 12 would be plenty to light the tank standalone, without the MH.

 

[ÂN‡h¤Ñ¥]

Sorry, that link is broken.

Honestly, if you're going to bother with LEDs in a tank that small, just get a nano with no stock lighting and go all-LED.

If you REALLY only want the LED for "actinic" supplementation, use LEDs with wide field of view (Luxeon Rebels) and/or a diffusion lens. Any more than 3 or 4 is going to add a significant amount of intensity. 12 would be plenty to light the tank standalone, without the MH.

The link was of t5 tubes with a few leds inside of it. Have you heard Of these? It seems like these might be a better idea, less diy and less intensity but this is the first time I've seen them.

I think your right, I'm going to put the leds on the back burner for now. These tubes my be worth it though IMO?

Thanks for the help

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

It's hard to comment about an LED product without knowing way more than is typically published in specs, so it's tough to say much beyond "try them out and let us know." But yeah, they'd probably be OK for supplementation - though likely more expensive and less efficient than you could get with a careful DIY project.

 

[james3370]

I was actually going to go order my nanocube now and I saw this.

does this mean you don't have the tank yet?? if that's the case, you might consider checking out www.nanotuners.com & www.nanocustoms.com

they have been the shiznit for lighting upgrades for all-in-one (AIO) nano tanks like the JBJ, Nanocube, & Biocube lines for a long time. they also sell complete "turn-key" packages & are now also offering LED upgrades as well as complete packages.

they tend to be on the higher price spectrum, but all the R&D as far as fitment, power, etc has been done, so makes your life easier if you just want to get it going .....or a good reference point if you want to DIY your own

also check out www.nano-reef.com the lighting section of that forum has soooooo many different build threads for all the AIO lines, your head will hurt LOL