DIY LEDs - The write-up

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the tubes are "IceCap Reef Illuminations LED Moonlight 420/460nm T5 Retrofit Tube w/ Power Supply + Mounting Clips"

No I didnt order the tank but wanted to stay away from running only LED's because I think there going to become a lot cheaper and better made in a few years to come but I'll check out those sites now thanks :thumbsup:
 
the tubes are "IceCap Reef Illuminations LED Moonlight 420/460nm T5 Retrofit Tube w/ Power Supply + Mounting Clips"

No I didnt order the tank but wanted to stay away from running only LED's because I think there going to become a lot cheaper and better made in a few years to come but I'll check out those sites now thanks :thumbsup:

Hey life happens between the lines....Plus, say a few years from now they are half the price - waiting 5 years to save a hundred or so bucks i donno...
 
You got the advantages pretty much right on.

I'd aim for 36 - 48 LEDs in that setup, depending on corals, drive current, optics, etc.

Can you give us some more specifics on what you want? Intensity, controllability, color, etc. If you were to do MH again, what would you put over the tank (knowing that, we can suggest a "comparable" LED rig).

Actually, I haven't worked out all the details beyond size and configuration, this thing started as a nano, and has grown from there ;)

last time (it's been 10 yrs so some of the details are gone) I had 2 150'ish watts MH over a 55G. I believe they we're 15k bulbs, very nice and blue.

It looked great, my implementation was a bit ghetto, but the tank was awesome and it thrived. When the lights came on it sounded like a MD-80 firing up, and probably cost as much.

For this tank my location is fixed, this will go into a permanent book case area in the family room and will have a very nice built in look with minimal effort. My design goals require; no noise, minimal effort to maintainable and low operating cost. Heat, noise and high operating cost are something I'll pay to avoid which solidifies my belief that LED is the way to go.

What I have learned as a successful amateur reef keeper over the years is that lighting system is core. On more then one tank I've ended up upgrading the lighting... never have time to do it right, always have time to do it again!

This time around I will not be limited by light. This tank will be a mostly coral, a mixture of soft and SPS with some fish, definitely a low bio load. Deep sand bed, I like Beananimals overflow setup.


With all this said, I think I'll just begin with the lights, once those are up and running the rest is simple enough.

Onward ... I'll get a build thread going soon enough, still need to read a bit more...

Thanks for the prompt reply, it's good to be back!

Dan in Dallas...
 
der_wille_zur_macht,

How familiar are you with the dimming aspects of the Meanwell drivers (D version)?
I know it's dimmed based on an input of 1-10 VDC, but what is the current required here?

I was thinking about buying a cheap power adjustable powersupply until I can get the Apex controller.
 
der_wille_zur_macht,

How familiar are you with the dimming aspects of the Meanwell drivers (D version)?
I know it's dimmed based on an input of 1-10 VDC, but what is the current required here?

I was thinking about buying a cheap power adjustable powersupply until I can get the Apex controller.

The Meanwells will draw 3mA on the dimming circuit each.
 
Excellent. That's practically nothing. Thanks.

Nothing if you're trying to DIY, but with multiple Meanwells connected to a dimming circuit on a controller now becomes an issue. You'll have to find out what each dimming circuit on the ALC can handle. The Profilux channels will allow 10mA per dimming channel, so three Meanwells can be attached to each directly in parallel ...
 
Nothing if you're trying to DIY, but with multiple Meanwells connected to a dimming circuit on a controller now becomes an issue. You'll have to find out what each dimming circuit on the ALC can handle. The Profilux channels will allow 10mA per dimming channel, so three Meanwells can be attached to each directly in parallel ...

Of course, I'm sure there are really simple external circuits that would fix this and let you run a lot more.

10mA per channel on the Profilux is shockingly wimpy. The ATMega chips used in Arduinos will allow 40mA each.
 
That could be for the built in 0-10v channels. Their addon cards may support more. I probably will need to use 20 or so Meanwells for a full DIY setup and any suggestions you can give on running more per channel would be appreciated ...

Of course, I'm sure there are really simple external circuits that would fix this and let you run a lot more.

10mA per channel on the Profilux is shockingly wimpy. The ATMega chips used in Arduinos will allow 40mA each.
 
thinking about bulding a 2 foot by 2 foot section

thinking about bulding a 2 foot by 2 foot section

I have a few tanks and i am thinking about bulding a 2' x 2' section that i can swap out over different tanks.
it might be to big for one of the two 125g but it would be nice for my new 235gallon tank i am ultimately breaking down on of the 125g tanks.
I am going biger but i have so much going on i have right now 6 saltwater tanks and i have to down size the # of tanks so i am going biger to fit more in one tank. the 235 is 6' side to side and 2' front to back and 3' tall.
can the people PM me or even post where and what to get to do this and make it the ezest for me.
I would like to thank you in advance for your hard work and time that you put in to make it ezer for me.:thumbsup:
 
Mike, what sort of intensity are you looking for? What sort of look (color-wise) do you like? Do you need/want controllability at all? How high above the tank will the fixture be mounted?
 
The intensity I am looking fori is sps on the rock but not all the way down more low light corals on the B/B tank
The sort of look (color-wise) i am looking for is like from 14 to 20 k.
I would like it to have controllability
How high above the tank will the fixture be mounted?
with that last question it will be up in the air "LOL" no relly it depends but i dont mind a few inches and would like to keep splashing to a min.
dont like to clean lol
hopes that helps!!!!
 
Hey Guys,
First I want to say Happy New Year...

I wish to build my own led light hood and spent already some time to read this very interesting thread.
I'm not expert with LEDs you guys using to build your "toys", mostly have experience with PLCC 2 LEDs and similar which are using in car electronics, I'm doing car light, dashboard modifications and would love to ask some questions before I gonna burn to much dollars.
Just ordered yesterday some SSC P7 C-Bin LED Emitter with 21mm Heat Sink Base (3.6V~3.7V) the manufacturer is - Seoul Semiconductor I don't know if is really good step but want to try them. Has anybody tried before these LEDs? I'm looking for good driver and any help will be appreciate.
Thank you in advance.

Regards,
mark
 
The intensity I am looking fori is sps on the rock but not all the way down more low light corals on the B/B tank
The sort of look (color-wise) i am looking for is like from 14 to 20 k.
I would like it to have controllability
How high above the tank will the fixture be mounted?
with that last question it will be up in the air "LOL" no relly it depends but i dont mind a few inches and would like to keep splashing to a min.
dont like to clean lol
hopes that helps!!!!

Think of it this way. If you break your tank into sections you'd light with MH lamps, you can just "replace" each MH lamp with an appropriate LED rig. 24 LEDs at 700mA is about equivalent to an average 250w MH.

Another way to think of it is to figure out the square inches of surface area on your tank. A 6' x 18" tank (I think that's a standard 125, right?) has 1296 square inches of surface area. If you figure between 10 - 20 square inches per LED, you'll be in the range most people are using - lower numbers being more intense. So, on that 125, you might use 70 - 100 LEDs or so, you'd be in the right range. That more or less matches with the "MH substitute" method I mentioned above - 72 LEDs would be like using three 250w MH.

That's all assuming a typical rig - 700mA drive current, Cree XR-E Q5 cool whites mixed 50/50 with royal blues or plain blues. Use wide optics (60 degrees or more) if the fixture will be more than a few inches off the water. Use narrower optics (40 degrees) if it'll be a foot or more up. If you want to put it really high, you could use really narrow optics. Beware of using tighter optics on a lower fixture, because you'll get "cones of light" instead of an even distribution.


Hey Guys,
First I want to say Happy New Year...

I wish to build my own led light hood and spent already some time to read this very interesting thread.
I'm not expert with LEDs you guys using to build your "toys", mostly have experience with PLCC 2 LEDs and similar which are using in car electronics, I'm doing car light, dashboard modifications and would love to ask some questions before I gonna burn to much dollars.
Just ordered yesterday some SSC P7 C-Bin LED Emitter with 21mm Heat Sink Base (3.6V~3.7V) the manufacturer is - Seoul Semiconductor I don't know if is really good step but want to try them. Has anybody tried before these LEDs? I'm looking for good driver and any help will be appreciate.
Thank you in advance.

Regards,
mark

Sorry Mark, can you clarify what you're trying to do with those LEDs? Light a fish tank (a toy?) or light up a car?

The P7 is an OK LED, roughly comparable in terms of efficiency to the LEDs we typically use. However, it presents some challenges for use over a fish tank (viewing angle, drive current.)
 
For an enclosed hood over the tank, do the LED's need to something in front of them, or can they be "open" to the water surface?
 
der_wille_zur_macht of course I want to hook up LEDs for my fish tank, I just said I know something about plcc 2 LEDs which are using in the cars... and don't know much about LEDs you guys using to build light setups for the tanks.
Looks like I still can cancell my order and get some other LEDs If P7 are not really good for me. Maybe I should try the 10w or 20w LEDs?

Thanks,
mark
 
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