der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Could you link? For the Crees I have only seen the 8 degree (made by Cree as well) and the 8.4 degree (made by Carlco).
Actually I had picked up some of the ripple medium Carlco (16 FWHM) lenses for another project and did a side-by-side comparison last night between those and these 6 degree lenses. ALL I can say is LOL @ how much cleaner the beam that the carlco produces is cast. As far as I can tell, the carlco beam was pretty much uniform throughout with ZERO artifacts and ugly spillage. What's funnier, is the beam from the carlco 16 FWHM is really not that much wider than this 6 degree lens...
I'm going to call LEDSupply today with hopes of trading these things in, wish me luck (if they're even open on the weekends...)
You are totally right - I was thinking that the 8 degree Cree brand optics were 6's.
OK..I went ahead and changed my order to 24 XP-G cool whites and 24 XR-E Royal Blues. I also changed the drivers to the D models...
The D models can be dimmed with a wall wart and a pot. Technically you want a 0-10v DC signal, so if you can get a 10v DC wall wart, and wire it up with a pot, you'll be all set. If you can't find a 10v DC wall wart, you can use a (much much more common) 12v unit and put a resistor inline to drop the voltage to a max of 10v, or use a 9v wall wart (also common) and "live" with missing out on the last 10% of output - you could make up for that by adjusting the current limit trimpot inside the unit.
Speaking of that current trimpot, I would suggest turning it ALL THE WAY DOWN to start, then building your rig and running it. Use a multimeter to measure current, and turn the pot up to your desired value, if you need more than what it's at when all the way down.