DIY LEDs - The write-up

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If you check the data sheets they actually have a lower forward voltage than XR-E (getting this right now.. dammit self) anyways.. you should be able to run 14 of them on one eln-60-48

You're keeping in mind that 7-ups have a combo of 4 XPG's and 3 XPE's? So a person could really drive two of these with an eln-60-48?
 
Also, is anyone aware of any 3rd party testing of the actual spectrums that come out of these LEDs? The datasheets look wayyy too much approximated. I would be worried that in order to increase efficiency of the white XP-G's, they might be pulling some sort of thing like increasing a particular yellow wavelength, sort of in the way that high pressure sodiums get super efficiency and it's mostly yellow light.
 
You're keeping in mind that 7-ups have a combo of 4 XPG's and 3 XPE's? So a person could really drive two of these with an eln-60-48?

yes, dont confuse XPE with XRE like i had done.. they are different! white XPG has fV of 3.3 @ 1000ma and royal blue XPE has fV of 3.5 at 1000ma (which you should not be running at anyway so the actual fV's should be lower in practice)
 
Has anyone considered using elliptical optics?

I searched high and low to find beam shots for these elliptical optics from carclo and this thread is all i could find. The thread is pretty old, but it shows alot of beam shots, including on optical one, a 25x6 degree. I wonder what this optic's beam shot looks like and how it can be compatible with both MCE and XPG. That doesn't make sense to me because they two types are very different in size. :confused:
 
I wonder what this optic's beam shot looks like and how it can be compatible with both MCE and XPG. That doesn't make sense to me because they two types are very different in size. :confused:

Those opitcs are essentially bare lenses that you clip into holders. the holders are designed for the specific LED.
 
I stumbled across these but havent dug in very deeply:

http://www.luminus.com/content1454

"With superior lumen output ranging from 1,750 lumens for the CBT-90 and exceeding 4,000 lumens for the CBM-360"


And "Has anyone considered using elliptical optics? " - YES!

Especially after looking at some of these higher output LEDs.

I would love to be able to do my 125 G with only 10-20 LEDs instead of 200.

Stu
 
Many people seem to like Weller irons. I'm currently using this:

I have a Weller from Home Depot for $20 So far, the best I have used. Very constant with temp and melts super fast. The tip is very messed due to usage and cannot find one to fit. Bought a 40W solderin iron from radio shack and it sucks. Also bought a soldering station from www.mpja.com rated up to 50W with adjustable temp and also sucks (the one from the specials at$14.99). I stick to the weller even with the f***ed up tip.
 
I stumbled across these but havent dug in very deeply:

http://www.luminus.com/content1454

"With superior lumen output ranging from 1,750 lumens for the CBT-90 and exceeding 4,000 lumens for the CBM-360"

A quick look at their datasheet has me scratching my head:

Over 100 lumens per watt at 350mA/mm2

Large, monolithic chip with uniform emitting area of 9 mm2

Do I really have to do the math to figure out the REAL efficiency?


I have a Weller from Home Depot for $20 So far, the best I have used. Very constant with temp and melts super fast. The tip is very messed

What's the model number? Weller tips are usually pretty easy to get. . .
 
Do I really have to do the math to figure out the REAL efficiency?

I'd be interested if you did :lmao:. It's interesting how they are totally different in input characteristics ie something like 5 volts and 5 amps...and Stu has a point as far as just using a few LEDs vs dozens. However, if the efficiency is garbage then that's a dealbreaker...
 
I guess I owe everyone an update...

The tank's a little dirty... I'm just updating you all on the growth.

IMG_0423.jpg


IMG_0433.jpg


And what it was a while ago...

DSC05996-2.jpg
 
I am looking to buy a soldering iron.

What temp. range am I aiming for?

-Dave
get a metcal soldering station!! i just soldered up my 48 with mine and 3 seconds is all it took per solder to the star! heats up in like 5 sec and you can get a ton of tips...my wife uses them at where she works and they build ultra sounds and military electronics...aka very high grade stuff!!




on a different note...like i said i finished up my 48 array and HOLY COW!!! i used 60 degree optics on q5 bin crees and that little set up blows a 175w halide out the water!!!!! its very crisp white...now i wish i would have gotten the dimable drivers so i can take some white out of the mix....when i get going i will be replacing my radiums with leds and a controller.

LEDS ROCK!!!
 
I'd be interested if you did :lmao:. It's interesting how they are totally different in input characteristics ie something like 5 volts and 5 amps...and Stu has a point as far as just using a few LEDs vs dozens. However, if the efficiency is garbage then that's a dealbreaker...

I randomly picked one model, found the "current density" spec as noted above, the area of the chip, the Vf, and the lumens of the highest bin, and it actually worked out to around 100 lumens/watt at the most efficient current, which isn't that bad - on par with a Q5 XR-E. Of course that was late at night after a glass of wine, so who knows if my math was good. :lol: Might go through and do it again today. Though, pricing will also play a role, of course.

For people who want to do a highly concentrated spotlight build like yours, I could see something like these making sense, but otherwise, I think we'd be past the point of no return on the spectrum of lots of light from a small number of devices vs. a little bit of light from a large number of devices, even with correct optics. If one of these things is equivalent to, say, 8 XR-E, you're going to be getting ALL that light (and heat) from a single tiny point, which is going to be a challenge to manage IMHO.
 
If I want to test my LED's out can I just hook them up with a 9v battery harness I have laying around? Just one at a time or would this fry them?

-Dave
 
A 9v battery attached to one of these LEDs would fry the LED in a millisecond and probably cook the battery if you managed to step the voltage down (9v batteries can't take much current at all). Two AA's is fine, but only test briefly, especially if the MCPCBs aren't attached to a heatsink.

Even one AA will tell you that the LED is fine. It won't provide enough voltage to actually light the LED, but it'll cause the emitter to gently glow if it's good.
 
You can use a 9V battery to touch test these LEDs but you need to have a 20 ohm resistor in one of the leads. And don't expect the LED to be real bright. The battery will NOT be appreciating this.
 
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