DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Nitpicking - that was the equipment forum:)

But I may also have to do it in the club forum (guess I should join a club anyway) and then post links. Is that allowed? Of maybe in the individual sellers area - this is what I was thinking. I can see starting a new thread, because when it is closed who is going to want to read it - there will be no real information.
 
Hi

I have a question. I am about to start my LED project and notice everyone picking the Cree Blue LEDs. But after looking at my tank I also like the addition of the purple t5 in the 420 range. Does any one have a suggestion what LED we can use to get this look if we want.

Thanks
 
jerwin, many people use the Royal Blue LEDs, which by spec, peak around 450 - 465 nm. It may strike you as vastly different from the 420nm some fluorescent lamps are advertised as, but the "pop" effect in the tank is similar. If you're feeling really particular, you can ask a vendor for one of the lower-wavelength color bins for the Royal Blue LED.

I don't really know of any other options, because personally I've been satisfied with the Royal Blues.
 
ok. Thanks. I know I read a post a while back where I thought some one was using some infread leds. So I could possibly ask for Royal Blues with 2 different wave lenghts.

And I beleive some were using the regular blues for the moonlight effects, I am now also seeing white moonlights any suggestion for those if I would like to try one?

Thanks
 
Depends on your taste. Strictly speaking, the spectrum of moonlight is closer to daylight than the garishly blue products commonly sold as moonlights in this hobby. So, pick whatever color you want, I guess.

HP LEDs will have to be dimmed WAY down, or run at a VERY low current to give a moonlight effect; they're just too bright otherwise.
 
jerwin - you probably want the UV leds which are in the 350nm range IIRc. infared is like 850nm on the complete opposite side of the spectrum
 
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re: moon light - I plan to take one of my strings and spread them across the length of the tank so I can turn all off but the one string and then dim that down. I hope to get a moonlight effect that way.

Not sure if it will work though.

So much trial and error :)
 
re: moon light - I plan to take one of my strings and spread them across the length of the tank so I can turn all off but the one string and then dim that down. I hope to get a moonlight effect that way.

That's basically my plan, too - but not spreading them out - I'll have them bunched together so it imitates a "point source" light, as the natural moon is. I figure 6 LEDs dimmed down to 5% or so will be about right for my 360g tank.
 
some random XP-G goodness :wave:

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Now I'm blind! :crazy1:
 
That's basically my plan, too - but not spreading them out - I'll have them bunched together so it imitates a "point source" light, as the natural moon is. I figure 6 LEDs dimmed down to 5% or so will be about right for my 360g tank.

The Meanwell 60-48d on my test rig seems to shutoff completely when I get down to about the last 10% of pot wiper travel. May not be an issue with the 60-48p drivers you're planning on using.

Bob
 
Ok i've been researching on this and have decided to jump on it....I have a std 29 gal that i'm going to knock about 6 inches off the length for a built in over flow/powerhead "hider". So i'm thinking a 20 inch heat sink centered with 24 led's. Would this allow enough spread and enough wattage over the tank to keep sps at the top or is it over kill. Also is the Q5 XR-E 107 lumin cool white and the blue cree still the most popular led's being used. I want to double check with people who have experience or have done led's over a 29 gal.
 
That's basically my plan, too - but not spreading them out - I'll have them bunched together so it imitates a "point source" light, as the natural moon is. I figure 6 LEDs dimmed down to 5% or so will be about right for my 360g tank.
Moonlight is coming in nearly parallel at that distance so while it looks like a point source to the eye I think it behaves more like a ,uh, how do you say, non-point source.

Granted, four spread out point sources may be the worst of all so who knows what I'll end up doing. No optics is a good idea.
 
The Meanwell 60-48d on my test rig seems to shutoff completely when I get down to about the last 10% of pot wiper travel. May not be an issue with the 60-48p drivers you're planning on using.

Bob

The P-type ELN actually shows a bigger cutout (15%) than the D-type (5%). But it doesn't bother me either way as I'm not using them (DIY drivers for me!)

Ok i've been researching on this and have decided to jump on it....I have a std 29 gal that i'm going to knock about 6 inches off the length for a built in over flow/powerhead "hider". So i'm thinking a 20 inch heat sink centered with 24 led's. Would this allow enough spread and enough wattage over the tank to keep sps at the top or is it over kill. Also is the Q5 XR-E 107 lumin cool white and the blue cree still the most popular led's being used. I want to double check with people who have experience or have done led's over a 29 gal.

That strikes me as a reasonable build for a 29g with 6" chopped off the end.

The Q5 is a good choice for cool white, but the XP-G is about 30% better in it's best bin (R5). Doesn't mean the Q5 XR-E is terrible, it's just not the absolute best any more.

For royal blues, the XR-E or XP-G is still the best, since XP-G doesn't come in that color.

If you do decide to use the XP-G, you might want to go to a 40/60 balance of cool white/royal blue instead of the typical 50/50.
 
Moonlight is coming in nearly parallel at that distance so while it looks like a point source to the eye I think it behaves more like a ,uh, how do you say, non-point source.

Granted, four spread out point sources may be the worst of all so who knows what I'll end up doing. No optics is a good idea.

You're right, it's essentially a highly laminar distributed source. Unfortunately that's nearly impossible to recreate in a fish tank. Widmer's ceiling mounted LED unit is probably as close as it gets. Still, I want the "point source" even if it's not the most accurate, because it'll be the most dramatic. There will be big huge shadows cast by the towers of rock in the tank, for instance. I'd like to motorize the "moon" so it's in a different position each night, or traverses the sky, but I don't know if it's realistic to do such a thing reliably.
 
captstinky,

"Stu: I checked out a local hobby shop and 8/32 seemed big, but no worries?"

My screws dont fit thru the notch on the stars, they just line up with them and compress the star nicely. I torque them till you just see them start to bend.

There is a little wiggle room doing it that way. And the way I do my drilling:

I have a Steel washer with two holes drilled in it the exact spacing I need for the star & the 8/32s.

I line it up & center where I want the star & screws, then I mark the holes.
Drill the first hole, then drop a pin in that hole to hold the washer (drill template) in place & drill the second hole.

It guarantees proper spacing. Then I tap the holes & put the star on with the thermal grease behind it, & torque to snug.

Stu

No-one knows who has ELN-60-48s in stock right now?

Also - I have found the PLN-60-48s in stock, but they LOOK the same as the ELN but cost more.
Typical salesman speak:

Stu - "what is the difference between the ELN & PLN?"
Salesman - "here is the datasheet"

I cant tell the difference except for the price & availability.
 
They do make UV LED's but don't use optics with them. High concentrations of UV light is no more helpful to corals than peoples.

Guess I should have quoted the post I was responding too :D
 
I am putting in an order through digi-key and want to add some solder to it. What type would work best for LED's? I am using a Weller soldering station.

Thanks in advance.

-Dave
 
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