der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
60/40 rosin core, .031" is what I'm using.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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akindbro4u
New member
Found this earlier http://batchpcb.com/index.php/Products Thought maybe it would be a ggod place for maybe Der to upload his boards for us to order. It would make getting the eln shield, or your driver into our hands easier.
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shackscs
Super Premier Member
shackscs
Super Premier Member
Anyone have any experience with either of these LEDS? I need about 50 of these and 50blues.
Seoul Semiconductors Z-Power LED Emitter (T-bin)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1342
Seoul Semiconductors Z-Power LED Emitter (U-bin)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
Seoul Semiconductors Z-Power LED Emitter (T-bin)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1342
Seoul Semiconductors Z-Power LED Emitter (U-bin)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
That's probably the pattern I will follow for the other stuff I'm working on. The Batchpcb marketplace looks really cool, but I see two obstacles: 1) batchpcb is a pretty pricey place to get boards made, so the margins would be low, and 2) It's inherently a for-profit option (they require you to fill out a W-9!) and I'm not really interested in doing this stuff for money.
So I'll probably just continue to release the designs under open source licenses as EAGLE projects and gerbers, and people can get them made where/how they want.
Another option I've thought about is trying to get seeedstudio to carry the projects on their open source PCB or kit pools, which means people can buy from them at their cost and I'm not involved at all (for profit or administratively). I've heard rumors they're changing that service though, so we'll see.
akindbro4u
New member
did not know how they worked. Sucks about the w-9. Oh well. Just a thought. lol
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I agree, the concept is really good - it's just not quite how I would want to do it.
Worst case, once I get all the designs up, people can just download and get them made at their favorite board site. Hopefully that works for the widest audience.
Worst case, once I get all the designs up, people can just download and get them made at their favorite board site. Hopefully that works for the widest audience.
n0rk
More is better-er!
Hi guys, I'm getting ready to do a DIY build for my new tank and just trying to get a gauge for things before I do (I've only ever built tiny arrays, not ones for a decent sized tank, and never one with optics). Tank itself is a 36x24x13", rimless, will run 1.5" sandbed and be heavily stocked with SPS. I'll be using Meanwell drivers and Cree XP-G/XP-E emitters as I can get both cheap through a groupbuy, and mounting to a pair of 750x180mm heatsinks.
Original plan was to mount the array at basically surface level (~1" from the waterline), but I've decided I want top-down viewing and that I'd prefer to mount it about 2' above now. Obviously this will need optics. Which ones would be recommended in this case to give me sufficient PAR at the bottom and avoid spotlighting? Original plan was 5 strings of 11, is it possible to bring this number down with the use of optics in this case (I'm also trying to save power here where possible, trying to keep the entire thing under about 180W)? All will be driven at 1000mA.
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure that I'm doing things the right way and getting some advice from those who've done it before. Cheers. :beer:
Original plan was to mount the array at basically surface level (~1" from the waterline), but I've decided I want top-down viewing and that I'd prefer to mount it about 2' above now. Obviously this will need optics. Which ones would be recommended in this case to give me sufficient PAR at the bottom and avoid spotlighting? Original plan was 5 strings of 11, is it possible to bring this number down with the use of optics in this case (I'm also trying to save power here where possible, trying to keep the entire thing under about 180W)? All will be driven at 1000mA.
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure that I'm doing things the right way and getting some advice from those who've done it before. Cheers. :beer:
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
If you're using meanwells, I'm assuming you mean ELN-60-48's? If so, you'll probably want to load them up to 12 per driver, otherwise you're wasting capacity. 5 strings of 11 should be PLENTY for a tank your size, especially considering the whites will be XP-G (I'm assuming R5 bin?) You'll probably want to skew the ratio a bit towards the blues to keep them from being washed out by the more-powerful XP-G whites.
At 2', 40 degree optics would be fine. Look for user Santoki, he has a build similar to what you're describing.
If you want to save power, I'd run at a lower drive current and keep the LED count up, vs running at a higher current and lowering LED count. You'll get more efficiency that way. Upfront cost will be a tiny bit more (more LEDs cost money upfront, more current doesn't).
At 2', 40 degree optics would be fine. Look for user Santoki, he has a build similar to what you're describing.
If you want to save power, I'd run at a lower drive current and keep the LED count up, vs running at a higher current and lowering LED count. You'll get more efficiency that way. Upfront cost will be a tiny bit more (more LEDs cost money upfront, more current doesn't).
Anyone used this Prolight UV light?
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/leds.htm#cree
it runs at 350ma
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/leds.htm#cree
it runs at 350ma
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
To be fair, some of the DIY designs are far worse. The NCP3066 I started with, in boost topology, cuts out at like 30%. I haven't tried the CAT4010 yet but the datasheet makes it look really good.
dnahas
Premium Member
I feel the split coming soon!!
If anyone would like to critique this is my current wiring plan. This is a down size plan to fit my 46g bow.
My goal is to be able to control and dim the royal blues and XP-G whites independently. With a 50/50 mix on the bulbs, I plan to drive the whites lower than the RB's during the daylight cycle. If the 10% cutoff meanwell (60-48D) is dimm enough I will use the RB's during the moonlight cycle, other wise I'll add some individual fixtures for the night photo period.
If anyone would like to critique this is my current wiring plan. This is a down size plan to fit my 46g bow.
My goal is to be able to control and dim the royal blues and XP-G whites independently. With a 50/50 mix on the bulbs, I plan to drive the whites lower than the RB's during the daylight cycle. If the 10% cutoff meanwell (60-48D) is dimm enough I will use the RB's during the moonlight cycle, other wise I'll add some individual fixtures for the night photo period.
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TheFishMan65
New member
I assume DC8 is an 8 outlet plug, meanwells run of 120 volts. The LEDs are shown in series and that is NOT the way you want to wire them. Don't know about the APEX but i think it is ok.
[EDIT]
Another point some of the LEDs are not connected to a meanwell.
[EDIT]
Another point some of the LEDs are not connected to a meanwell.
HeneryH
Henery Hawk
This is exactly what I plan to do with my Apex. I think the previous poster meant that you show them in parallel while they should be in serial.
And you should have more like 14 LEDs per Mean Well. Do the math on Vf and the voltage rating of the driver.
TheFishMan65
New member
Thanks HeneryH that is what I meant.
perikaruppan
Member
Dear Friends, i am in the process of doing the LED lighting for my 54" X 24" X 24" tank. there are no braces and it is a rimless tank.
Looking for a medium to high lit tank to keep some rare SPS and LPS.
Since CREE i couldnt source here in India, i have sourced the Edision CW and RB from Taiwan and have already received 50 CW and 50RB and 100 60 Degree Lens.
Doing a DIY Driver using the ZXLD, and thanks to all here for the help.
Now stuck with a major thinking problem!!! how to space the LEDS!!!
The tank has got two bays of rock arrangement with about 3" open space on ALL four sides.
Was planning for a 48" X 18" Hood that will be centrally placed over the tank (4" offset on all sides, that covers for the 3" NO Rock area in the tank).
In the hood was thinking of the following options:
1. 5 rows of 20 LEDs each. cW and RB Alternating. Will delete about 16 LEDS here and there to get a count of 84 Nos. Each row will be in a 3" Aluminium channel which can be movable (modular pattern).
2. have a similar build done here : 3 Nos of 24 LEDS in a 12X8" Array, total 72 LED.. Spaced apart equally..similar to having 3 MHs on the tank. The remaing 12 LEDs space them here and there where required to get the lighting.
3. Have a Single Panel of 48X18" Aluminium plate of 3mm thickness.. and space the LEDS column wise @ 2.5" and row wise at 3.8" to get about 90 LEDS.
All the above will have fan cooling.
The aluminium channels are used (will try to get the one with more fins on them) as the max heat sink size that i can get is 6" width X 12" length.
Which option do you all think is worthwhile?
Anyone done a similar build?
Looking for a medium to high lit tank to keep some rare SPS and LPS.
Since CREE i couldnt source here in India, i have sourced the Edision CW and RB from Taiwan and have already received 50 CW and 50RB and 100 60 Degree Lens.
Doing a DIY Driver using the ZXLD, and thanks to all here for the help.
Now stuck with a major thinking problem!!! how to space the LEDS!!!
The tank has got two bays of rock arrangement with about 3" open space on ALL four sides.
Was planning for a 48" X 18" Hood that will be centrally placed over the tank (4" offset on all sides, that covers for the 3" NO Rock area in the tank).
In the hood was thinking of the following options:
1. 5 rows of 20 LEDs each. cW and RB Alternating. Will delete about 16 LEDS here and there to get a count of 84 Nos. Each row will be in a 3" Aluminium channel which can be movable (modular pattern).
2. have a similar build done here : 3 Nos of 24 LEDS in a 12X8" Array, total 72 LED.. Spaced apart equally..similar to having 3 MHs on the tank. The remaing 12 LEDs space them here and there where required to get the lighting.
3. Have a Single Panel of 48X18" Aluminium plate of 3mm thickness.. and space the LEDS column wise @ 2.5" and row wise at 3.8" to get about 90 LEDS.
All the above will have fan cooling.
The aluminium channels are used (will try to get the one with more fins on them) as the max heat sink size that i can get is 6" width X 12" length.
Which option do you all think is worthwhile?
Anyone done a similar build?
Skeptic_07
New member
I'm going to attempt to do that with that exact driver for my XP-E royal blues. I'm only going to have 3 strings of 6 per driver though which gives you 2.5A / 3 = .833A. I'm not sure what resistor to use. I still haven't tried it yet waiting on getting those drivers, maybe they'll be here today. Also trying to get some fuses. Taking the advice of Kcress, I'll be using 1A fuses to protect each string of LEDs. In the data sheet they have 20 ohm resistors on each string but i don't understand why. Anyone know?
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