DIY LEDs - The write-up

[chris023]

BTW, thinking ~60 degree optics.

 

[S2minute]

IMHO if your not interested in dimming individual colors i`d go for your 66.5% 33.5%W ratio otherwise id go for 1st one. However, i would think 4" between LEDs is a bit much. 2-3" sounds better.

 

[widmer]

They all look like equally viable options to me. The only thing I would suggest is that you either

A) put the neutral whites and cool whites on separate drivers or

B) get fancy with adjustable resistors so that you can change the balance of CW:NW that your driver is feeding in case you end up liking the light from one more than the other.

Either option is feasible, but obviously option B) would be more complicated and less user-friendly.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I think the are all fine also. You might try a square rather diagonal and see if you like it better. At 20 inches you may also want a tighter optic. I had 48 on a 75 at about 18 inches and am having trouble getting the PAR I want. I am going to try some 10 degree lenses. I will report back when they come in if I get any banding.

 

[chris023]

IMHO if your not interested in dimming individual colors i`d go for your 66.5% 33.5%W ratio otherwise id go for 1st one. However, i would think 4" between LEDs is a bit much. 2-3" sounds better.

Yeah, I think those are my 2 top choices as well, just wasn't sure if 66.5 percent RB would be too blue. Still deciding on if dimming individual colors is needed. I agree 4" is a bit far apart, will probably tighten the LED width a bit, although on a 60 inch tank, would probably go no closer than 3.5 inches between LEDs. Thanks.

 

[chris023]

They all look like equally viable options to me. The only thing I would suggest is that you either

A) put the neutral whites and cool whites on separate drivers or

B) get fancy with adjustable resistors so that you can change the balance of CW:NW that your driver is feeding in case you end up liking the light from one more than the other.

Either option is feasible, but obviously option B) would be more complicated and less user-friendly.

Not sure either is an option for me. Have already ordered 2 HLG-150s to run all, and was hoping not to add anymore. Guess maybe I could throw in a ELN just for the CWs or NWs. Not sure I have the confidence to get too fancy with resistors just yet. Thanks.

 

[chris023]

I think the are all fine also. You might try a square rather diagonal and see if you like it better. At 20 inches you may also want a tighter optic. I had 48 on a 75 at about 18 inches and am having trouble getting the PAR I want. I am going to try some 10 degree lenses. I will report back when they come in if I get any banding.

Hmmm, any thoughts on what an optimal height/optic combo might be???

I certainly don't want a monstrous canopy. I was just playing it safe, so I could raise/lower as needed. But am thinking more like 18 off the water with 60 degree optics.

 

[chris023]

Originally Posted by S2minute
IMHO if your not interested in dimming individual colors i`d go for your 66.5% 33.5%W ratio otherwise id go for 1st one. However, i would think 4" between LEDs is a bit much. 2-3" sounds better.

Yeah, I think those are my 2 top choices as well, just wasn't sure if 66.5 percent RB would be too blue. Still deciding on if dimming individual colors is needed. I agree 4" is a bit far apart, will probably tighten the LED width a bit, although on a 60 inch tank, would probably go no closer than 3.5 inches between LEDs. Thanks.

Actually I originally had 24 leds per channel and 4 channels spaced further apart. It was suggested to go with 12 leds per channel and use twice as many channels for better heat control. So even though there is 4" spacing per channel, the channel next to it is staggered so there will be an led next to it less than 4" (if that all makes sense).

 

[redfishsc]

Anyone find a cheap place for thermal tape? I'm going to redo my LED fixture to have 2/3 royal blue and 1/3 cool white.

Yes, Newark.com sells Bergquist Bond-Ply 100 in 150X150mm sheets (about 6" square).

$14 is pretty good for 36-48 pieces.

Cut into 36 1" pieces or 48 3/4" pieces. A paper slicer like used in an office would be very helpful, but you could also mark it and use a straight-edge (metal ruler etc) and slice with a regular box cutter.

I have a sheet of it in my hand right now, nice stuff.

http://www.newark.com/bergquist/bp100-0-005-00-6-6/thermal-tape-bond-ply-100-150x150/dp/18K5358

 

[TheFishMan65]

No advice on lenses, I am still playing with mine. I notice that all the layouts you have seem to have a pattern that I am afraind might be visible in the tank at the right angle, but i really don't know. Maybe the firt one, but do 2 sinks 1/4 inch apart and then a larger gap 2 more close together, etc. The problem is that the higher you are the tighter optics you need to get the light in the tank, but the more different kinds of LEDs the wider angle you need. Maybe 60 on the whites and 40 on the RB?

 

[TheFishMan65]

I have an ethics issue. I found this light by clicking on the add banner at the top of the page. I thought these were only adds by sponsors. Does RC qualify there sponsors? I come here for reliable advice. Maybe I am reading something wrong but 20 LEDs being equal to a 400 watt MH. Using 90% less electricity so 40 watts - 2 watts per LEDs.

I always took it that the sponsor took as much care as the folks that posted. To me this is like an LFS saying sure you can put a tang in a 10 gallon tank. Does this mean RC has gone commercial.

Sorry for the rant, but I would love some opinions.

 

[widmer]

As posted in the thread about the hobby turning into frags in the reef discussion, rc doesn't individually examine the companies that advertise here because they don't want to presume where refers should be shopping or not shopping. It's a buyer beware situation. Plus... that would cut down on the $ that keeps this forum going...

But yea I know how you feel - sometimes I wonder if there was ever a product category that fed off ridiculous hype as badly as the led products...

 

[jpccusa]

I have an ethics issue. I found this light by clicking on the add banner at the top of the page. I thought these were only adds by sponsors. Does RC qualify there sponsors? I come here for reliable advice. Maybe I am reading something wrong but 20 LEDs being equal to a 400 watt MH. Using 90% less electricity so 40 watts - 2 watts per LEDs.

I always took it that the sponsor took as much care as the folks that posted. To me this is like an LFS saying sure you can put a tang in a 10 gallon tank. Does this mean RC has gone commercial.

Sorry for the rant, but I would love some opinions.

I agree completely, although I KNOW that for the right PRICE I could certainly buy a tang for my nano cube.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I forgot to mention it goes 3 linear feet and a depth of 3 feet. I wish someone would find those LEDs. You all were wrong about Cree's were the most efficient

Hey anyone want to buy a bridge.

Widmer, I went through a few pages and could not find that thread. Do you have a link handy?

 

[widmer]

Reef Central does not "promote" companies. It does provide a venue for businesses to do so, however. It is the responsibility of the consumer to judge the relative merits of each company and the products it offers.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18305899&postcount=437

and a couple posts later

It would be incredibly presumptious of Reef Central to determine which products were "worthy" to be marketed to the community. It would also put Reef Central in the position of having in-substance put a "stamp of approval" on any product offered on this site. We leave those decisions to the informed consumer.

 

[kcress]

Yes, but any site can stop ads bearing blatant lies. That doesn't mean they're being "presumptuous". You should always notify a site when you see grossly misleading advertising on it.

 

[wfournier]

Yes, but any site can stop ads bearing blatant lies. That doesn't mean they're being "presumptuous". You should always notify a site when you see grossly misleading advertising on it.

I think the issue is that what someone sees as grossly "misleading" another person sees as perfectly reasonable. I'm sure we've all seen instances where "experts" disagree and it get's downright nasty. While I don't agree with that company's statements (AI claims that one sol module can replace a 400w halide too) I think it becomes a slippery slope.

 

[rpp]

I've got problem with my DIY lamp.

To Meanwell ELN-60-48D I connected 12 XP-G in series.
I gave from 5 to 9V to DIM +/- on Meanwell and only first 5 leds and last one in series works. Others don't :-(
When I try them using 2 AA batteries everything works fine.

Additionally when I switch off power on Meanwell leds still lights and after few seconds even brighter then for a moment off and there is one very short flash.
Is it problem with power supply or it's normal on Meanwell?

 

[chris023]

I've got problem with my DIY lamp.

To Meanwell ELN-60-48D I connected 12 XP-G in series.
I gave from 5 to 9V to DIM +/- on Meanwell and only first 5 leds and last one in series works. Others don't :-(
When I try them using 2 AA batteries everything works fine.

Additionally when I switch off power on Meanwell leds still lights and after few seconds even brighter then for a moment off and there is one very short flash.
Is it problem with power supply or it's normal on Meanwell?

I had the same thing happen to me once. Turned out to be a bad soldering job. Some solder was touching the heat sink shorting it out. Check your soldering work.

 

[perikaruppan]

I am also designing a similar system... but my spacings are 2" X 2" and 24 LED panels

Would like to know whether to stack the LEDs in straight Columns or diagonal columns like what chris has done.

the LEDS with by 4 Rows of 6 Each...
CW RB CW RB CW RB
RB CW B NW RB CW
CW B CW RB CW RB
RB CW RB NW B CW