DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Is anyone using a Reefkeeper elite to dim their LED's for a sunrise/sunset type effect? if so, what module are yu using, and how tough was it to get to work? Thanks!!
 
For XP-Gs, whites, is 1000mA the optimal setting or would it still be 700mA? Do you see a large difference in par levels between 700-1000mA?
 
According the datasheet at 700ma the output is about 180% of the 350 ma and at 1000ma it is 250%. So going from 700 to 1000 gives about a 40% gain in luminous flux. I would think this would also translate to a 40% increase in PAR.
 
For XP-Gs, whites, is 1000mA the optimal setting or would it still be 700mA? Do you see a large difference in par levels between 700-1000mA?

The test current for XP-E's and XP-G's is 350 ma

for XP-G's at 700ma (about 2.25w) output is about 180% of the test current or 250 lumens for R5 BINs, at 1A (about 3.4w) it is 250% (about 350 lumens) and at 1.5A (about 5.3w) it's about 330% (460 lumens).

As far as XP-E's go, the slopes are pretty flat so I don't see any reason to not run them at 1A other than heat.
 
The test current for XP-E's and XP-G's is 350 ma

for XP-G's at 700ma (about 2.25w) output is about 180% of the test current or 250 lumens for R5 BINs, at 1A (about 3.4w) it is 250% (about 350 lumens) and at 1.5A (about 5.3w) it's about 330% (460 lumens).

As far as XP-E's go, the slopes are pretty flat so I don't see any reason to not run them at 1A other than heat.

You must be referring to the current consumed vs output %. Yes, the curve looks somewhat linear, but you must also remember that voltage is increasing as current does. At higher currents they are in fact considerably less efficient.
 
That resistor should work.

Well if we want to get picky :) It will also run hotter which will decrease the light output so it will be even less efficient.
 
You must be referring to the current consumed vs output %. Yes, the curve looks somewhat linear, but you must also remember that voltage is increasing as current does. At higher currents they are in fact considerably less efficient.

I guess you have to decide what is significant. By my calculations they are about 8.5% more efficient at 700 mA vs 1A.
 
You must be referring to the current consumed vs output %. Yes, the curve looks somewhat linear, but you must also remember that voltage is increasing as current does. At higher currents they are in fact considerably less efficient.

So you would run your XP-Es at 700mA (I will) and your XP-Gs at 1A(I think I will)?
 
LEDS and Cutter

LEDS and Cutter

Sooo...what`s up with these people? I`m thinking us reefers in the world are a tiny drop in the bucket to them? What gives with their slow to non-existent respones? Do they have employees that just don`t care? Or maybe they just don`t need/want our business?:thumbdown
 
I'm guessing that they primarily want to deal with people buying several hundred LEDs at a time. Kind of like rapidled, we probably wouldn't be fielding questions about rapidled products all day long if they were willing to provide a phone number on their website for technical support. We should be getting a cut of their profits. :lol:
 
ok, so...i MIGHT have spoken to soon. I filled out an e-mail form about a group buy TODAY, and got a responce back a couple of hours ago. Man named Mark says,"can do, what do you need"...lol...hummm.
 
Looking for some feedback on a led design pattern. I am slowly but surely building this for a 150 gallon (60x24x24) mostly SPS tank. Plan is to mount channels ~20" off the water, if I can ever get started on slapping together a new canopy (some coral goes right to the top of my water line).
Check out the following 4 diagrams I have come up with so far. As the days go by, I keep reading more and more on the 2:1 ratio of RB to CW and the adding/replacing of NW vs. CW. So I am still open to suggestions. 96 total leds, 4 parallel strings powered by 2 HLG-150-48Bs (should be here in about 2 weeks).

Note the numbers of LEDs and ratio percentages per diagram.

Your input is greatly appreciated.
Cheers :beer:

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