DIY LEDs - The write-up

[westreef]

Thefishman,
I have 1:1 using XP for both CW and RB.
I can dim RB and CW separately. What current should I use for CW and RB to get the 2:1 effect?:wave:

 

[TheFishMan65]

I would try 500 for the CW and 700 for the RB and see how you like it. 2:1 is not important. What is important is do you like the color.

 

[vipul]

Hi pleas help with LED Specs.....

Hi pleas help with LED Specs.....

I have a 96" X 24" X 30" (LXBXH) Glass tank
I am currently using 1050 watts of MH and 240 watts of PC light
I am thinking of an upgrade to LED
I have found a person to assemble the fixture as I am not to good with the
DIY.
I currently have only LPS's and a couple of SPS's
but I want to graduate to SPS's in the future.
Kindly can some one give me the Specs required for the LED upgrade
like lenses specially their ANGLE and stuff and drivers
heat dispencers also
how many leds i would need to replace the MH and also what should be the split of colour's of the LED's.

The person want's me to give him the specs required for the build as he has no experience with building for a reef aquarium.
Kindly help me out.

Thanks a lot

 

[TheFishMan65]

You will want between 150-200 I expect, you might be able to start with 100, but I tink you will want more light. How high above the tank? My home page links to a summary of most of ths stuff in thsi thread.

 

[vipul]

You will want between 150-200 I expect, you might be able to start with 100, but I tink you will want more light. How high above the tank? My home page links to a summary of most of ths stuff in thsi thread.

It is gonna be 15" above the ank surface
I would like to know the lense angle
thanks for your time

 

[westreef]

I would try 500 for the CW and 700 for the RB and see how you like it. 2:1 is not important. What is important is do you like the color.

Thanks. I already have 600mA and 700mA for CW and RB, respectively. I will dial cw down a bit. However, I don't expect to see much of different because I am supplementing the lighting with T5s (2 blue+ and 1 purple+). I like what it is now, though. Thanks again for the suggestion.

 

[marspeed]

so about a year or two ago I decided to alter a few of those giant heat sinks I wanted to make them lighter cooler looking easy to mount stars and directional well trying to machine an extrusion that's a hole other story not to mention vibration and harmonics from those tuning fork fins destroyed a few hundred dollars worth of heat sinks. So I decided to make my own I still can't figure out why I wasted my time on all of the above these new sinks will be directional all aluminum and fit a three up star with a hole in the center I might have them anodized . And change the size to hold three or four 20mm stars or one of those four ups I was also thinking of adding a cover lens that stands off a bit for splashing. the pictures don't show the mounting holes or bracket I need to think about the bracket a little more. The size is around 1 ½ diameter and 1 ¼ long for the three up star

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=4254&pictureid=29183
suggestions anyone ? More pictures in my album

 

[terahz]

Why not just use a small cpu heatsink per star?

 

[marspeed]

I wanted something on the decorative side also I want to direct the light maybe mount them on a bar or suspended some how

 

[TheFishMan65]

For 15 inches probably 60, if the tank is deep you might try 40s.

 

[terahz]

I wanted something on the decorative side also I want to direct the light maybe mount them on a bar or suspended some how

Fair enough. CPU heatsinks are not the most attractive option, I admit . But you'll have to get pretty creative to hide the wires too.

Good luck and post pics when you have anything ready.

 

[vthondaboi]

Wiring question. Ok so I wired up the LEDs using 22awg wire. My plan is from the top of tank to the drivers in the stand is 10 feet or so. I found some sprinkler wire at HD that's 18 guage solid core. There are seven wires in a "sleeve", would this be too much heat on the wires since they're bundled together? I'm planning on running 3 drivers off each sleeve.

Also to shield the LEDs, what is preferred? Acrylic, glass or tempered glass?

 

[TheFishMan65]

That wire should work; what current are you planning on run

For the shield any of what you listed will work. Unless you want me to be picky.

 

[vthondaboi]

2 700ma and 1 1050ma meanwell per sleeve.

 

[TheFishMan65]

18 will be fine.

 

[bamf25]

Got all my basic sodering done today!!!! SO tonight need to attach my leds to my u channel, then wire up the drivers. I am having so many issues finding a local 10 v power supply for the dimmer. Is it ok to just go 9 v and ajust to that? I did find an ajustible that will do 10.2v which could be ok. Or should I just order one and be patient?

 

[vthondaboi]

Thanks!

18 will be fine.

 

[TheFishMan65]

If you use 9V the issue is switching to a 10V later. If your set 1000 ma with the 9V and then switch to 10 you will then be around 1100ma and risk your LEDs.

If 10.2 is regulated that will also work on the meanwells.

 

[bamf25]

^^^
I am running XP-E's at 700 (or plan to) and XP-G's at 1000. SO I got some safety room. Problem with the 10.2 is that it is an ajusting type, and twice the price of the one rapidled has.

 

[TheFishMan65]

At those settings both those can go up 10% if you switched to a 10 volt supply. If you have a 9 volts supply I would use it. If you have to order one get the one from RL.