TheFishMan65
New member
He means parallel not series. Add a fuse a little above your maximum desired current for each string (and order spares).
DIY LEDs - The write-up
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brassmonkyballs
BMB
I don;t know but i would consider the Meanwell HLG series in 42V as an alternative. The 185-42 will run up to 48 CW up to 1.1A each....and up to 72 RB at 700ma. The 240-42 puts out 5.7A so do the math.... depending on what ratio you want to run CW to RB you can probably do what you want with 2 drivers....those 2 run about $110-$125...so you save over 12 ELNs as well. As someone else said Type B is the preferred one for dimming.
TheFishMan65
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IIRC you don't want the 240. The dimming is tearable only down to 50% or something. Anyone (kcress ??) remember what the issue was?
kcress
New member
The HLGs would be much preferable-if only you could buy the dang things. Seems no vendors have the guts to order a case. Since vendors don't make fixtures they look at the ridiculous number of models offered in the HLG series and decide to stock nothing. Instead they should note we really work with the 42 to 48V series and just stock those. But I digress.
Definitely go parallel. Especially if you use the infernal ELNs..
Here's a thread that shows the parallel method. I think I listed the resistors fuses and terminal blocks in there too.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1974104&
Definitely go parallel. Especially if you use the infernal ELNs..
Here's a thread that shows the parallel method. I think I listed the resistors fuses and terminal blocks in there too.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1974104&
brassmonkyballs
BMB
The HLGs would be much preferable-if only you could buy the dang things. Seems no vendors have the guts to order a case. Since vendors don't make fixtures they look at the ridiculous number of models offered in the HLG series and decide to stock nothing. Instead they should note we really work with the 42 to 48V series and just stock those. But I digress.
Definitely go parallel. Especially if you use the infernal ELNs..
Here's a thread that shows the parallel method. I think I listed the resistors fuses and terminal blocks in there too.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1974104&
Wattsupply.com They list all the meanwells. I had bought ELNs from them in the past so I placed an order online for some HLGs. They called me the next day and said the HLGs were not in stock and would get them for me if I didn't mind a weeks delay. This was a Monday and he said Meanwell ships to them Wednesdays and Fridays and if I gave him the ok he would get the PO placed said he should get them on Friday and would ship them out same day. Sure enough I got confirmation and tracking Friday night and they will be here tomorrow. So in total about 2 weeks but I have a couple 120's and a 185 coming...plus another ELN.
I searched high and low and called every vendor I could and sent emails with little response. Some even claimed they were new and not in production yet.
Having dealt with Wattsupply prior for some ELNs and dealing with the same person I now have 2 good experiences with them. They did indeed tell me they are special order but they can get them relatively quickly and prices are good given its 1 at a time orders and not cases of them.
michael_in_nc
New member
Power is conserved.
Power of the Source = Power of the Load + Power Loss in the Circuits
(Apex lite power strip) = LED power + Power Loss in the LED driver
Power = Current * Voltage
(1.5A * 120VAC (RMS)) = 180 Watts.
The missing piece of the equation for your question is really what is the voltage? Basically, if you look at the equation above you can deliver much higher current at lower voltage. So, the power source is delivering lower current at a higher voltage, and your driver is delivering higher current at a lower voltage. If you look at the voltage at the top of your LED string and multiply the current by that voltage you'll get the power delivered to the load. The difference of the load and source will show you the power loss (efficiency) of the system.
Marcer,
One thing is still bothering me about your formula. It does not seem to correctly account for optical spread or beam overlap. It seems to assume that there is even irradiance over the area from each LED which is not the case. There are no terms for angular light spread or distance. I do not understand how it could be accounting for the 1/r squared loss or overlap buildup. If I put a number of leds above a single square meter and space them on some even square grid. Depending on the optics I will have areas of high overlap where many areas of FWHM light cones overlap and other areas where this does not happen to the same degree. Your present formula seems to only look at the number as an overall average rather than a spot by spot addup.
Comments?
Mark
The numbers were not making sense to me when compared to measured number I have seen and measured. I think that you hit the nail on the head, if you spread the total PAR evenly across the tank yes this appears to work, but that is not how it works in practice, you have significant "hot spots."
TheFishMan65
New member
iheartjms, the min wout probably be 48-60.
Kyuss
Megistered Rember
I've been reading through this thread and others for days (excellent info, thanks!) and have a 'basic' LED question. I'm in the process of setting up a 150g (72l x 18w x 28d) and don't really have a lighting solution thus far. Thing is, this tank will be a FOWLR, but I'm still interested in LEDS for the control-ability and low-maintenance factor and seems like I could do a DIY LED setup for little more than what I would for a decent t5 fixture. I noticed these are only being used on reef tanks for the PAR (or the vast majority at the very least,) but not having to swap out bulbs for some years alone seems worth the price of entry. Then add on lower power consumption & heat and dimming it seems like a no-brainer for someone like me who is basically starting from scratch as far as lighting goes.
My question is since I'm not really concerned about PAR output, would spacing LEDs in columns 4.25" apart (16 columns ) and rows 5" apart (3 rows) and using either no optics very wide-angle optics be feasible without major spot-lighting? They'd be 6" minimum over the tank, but I could easily raise them if that would help.
My question is since I'm not really concerned about PAR output, would spacing LEDs in columns 4.25" apart (16 columns ) and rows 5" apart (3 rows) and using either no optics very wide-angle optics be feasible without major spot-lighting? They'd be 6" minimum over the tank, but I could easily raise them if that would help.
NasotheHutt
New member
I need more help. Looking at the Thomas Research Drivers (http://www.thomasresearchproducts.com/LEDDatasheets/TRC-075 Dimming Series 01-31-11.pdf) The ones to drive XP Cree's are the 700Ma/54-180VDC or the 1050Ma/36-72VDC right? I assume I'd need a DC power supply, would going this route eliminate the harmonics issues?
Yes, you can run multiple meanwells on the same plug, easiest way would be to use wire nuts I guess, or you could solder the wires, or use terminal blocks with jumpers, etc. Not sure what you are asking by how to do it?
I just soldered my meanwell to one cord. I have 3 running off one and two on the other. It was a pita to solder 3 wires to one wire to be honest, and I think terminal blocks are better. The meanwell drivers do not leave alot of extra wire out of the box to soldering on the dv wire side is tight. It may be better to solder on extentions or strip the driver wire some. I use power tool replacement plugs rated for like 15 A.
TheFishMan65
New member
NasotheHUtt looks to me like they take AC power from the wall
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