der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure SSC buys raw emitters from another vendor (Cree or Philips?) and repackages them, so the performance should be very similar.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
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Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure SSC buys raw emitters from another vendor (Cree or Philips?) and repackages them, so the performance should be very similar.
stugray
Premium Member
And we thought we were the only ones doing amazing things with LEDs:
http://www.biggeekdaddy.com/miscvideos/LEDsheepart.html
Stu
http://www.biggeekdaddy.com/miscvideos/LEDsheepart.html
Stu
blues
blues
Go 455nm if you can. That is close to the peak for some chlorophils absorption.
In fact, looking at the big 455nm peak in cool whites, I bet you could just use cool whites for the job. The extra blue is more to make it look nice than supplu blue for food.
In fact, for regular plants I use plain warm white leds just fine. I skipped the 660nm red entirely as I get plenty from the wide spectrum warm whites.
blues
Go 455nm if you can. That is close to the peak for some chlorophils absorption.
In fact, looking at the big 455nm peak in cool whites, I bet you could just use cool whites for the job. The extra blue is more to make it look nice than supplu blue for food.
In fact, for regular plants I use plain warm white leds just fine. I skipped the 660nm red entirely as I get plenty from the wide spectrum warm whites.
The link was just to show an image of some of the SSC LEDs available.
I intend to get the 3 watters (they have it in cool white... and blues (420nm)).
The SSCs here come in starboards. Drivers are also available... and PWM dimming circuits as well for the DC powered drivers. At least, thats what the guy I spoke to on the phone told me.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Randal, depending on your budget, it might make the most sense to get two or three different shades of blue LED, then drive each color on it's own dimmable driver. Then, you could simply tweak a few dials and get exactly the look you want.
In general though, for supplemental lighting, I think it's fair to say that shorter wavelengths (420nm) won't contribute a lot to the coloration of the light, but will make corals "pop" with flourescence, while longer wavelengths (450 - 500) are going to give the light a more visible and obvious blue tint.
In general though, for supplemental lighting, I think it's fair to say that shorter wavelengths (420nm) won't contribute a lot to the coloration of the light, but will make corals "pop" with flourescence, while longer wavelengths (450 - 500) are going to give the light a more visible and obvious blue tint.
A local reefer in AUS is building a led system using 80 XR-E Q5's to put over a 4 footer!! 40x q5 whites and 40 xre Royal blues
Is that over kill or what. What do you think that would be equal to in terms of a MH. 400W MH or more?
I've used xitanium drivers for half my whites and buckpucks for the rest of the whites. There is a noticable yellow tint to the whites driven by the buckpucks has anyone else noticed this? And yes there the same Bin and both being driven at the same current.
Is that over kill or what. What do you think that would be equal to in terms of a MH. 400W MH or more?
I've used xitanium drivers for half my whites and buckpucks for the rest of the whites. There is a noticable yellow tint to the whites driven by the buckpucks has anyone else noticed this? And yes there the same Bin and both being driven at the same current.
stugray
Premium Member
Here's a very strange question:
Has anyone ever touched the "lens" of the CREE emitter soon after being turned off & still warm?
I see something totally unexpected, wondered if anyone else has seen this.
The lens is floating in some kind of silicone Goo & if you touch it the lens moves around.....
Are mine defective?
Stu
Has anyone ever touched the "lens" of the CREE emitter soon after being turned off & still warm?
I see something totally unexpected, wondered if anyone else has seen this.
The lens is floating in some kind of silicone Goo & if you touch it the lens moves around.....
Are mine defective?
Stu
I am looking to do LEDs on my new 90 gallon build.
I am not interested in tapping the holes needed for the 96 LEDs I am planning. Does anyone have any experience with drilling the holes and then using self tapping screws?
It seems to me like it shoud be fine but I'm wondering if there is something I'm overlooking.
Any help / advice would be appreciated.
I am not interested in tapping the holes needed for the 96 LEDs I am planning. Does anyone have any experience with drilling the holes and then using self tapping screws?
It seems to me like it shoud be fine but I'm wondering if there is something I'm overlooking.
Any help / advice would be appreciated.
sammy113
New member
Yes you can. I did it recently with my latest build. Its actually a lot easier. I lost my patience tapping the holes in my first build for 12 LEDs. The TAP bit break like butter even with oil. At least that was my experience. Not a good one. I used #4 screws 3/8" long. Actually the nylon nuts from the 440 screws fit them and they fit nicely in the LED star holes. Here s a couple of pics:
The self tapping screws sounds like a safe approach without all the effort of tapping the loles. I was planning on using doulbe sided tape and have tested the tape at 170 degrees F (76 C) with good results but am now worrying about the long term adhesive strength due to outgassing of the adhesive at elevated temperatures which I'm guessing will be in the 110 to 130 degree F range. The nylon washers would also protect the star from overtightening the screw or thermal expansion issues. Jim
sammy113
New member
Don't just think about the strength from the tape. Remember the heat transfer. It is very important to removed the most heat possible or you will either burn them or shorten their life. I've seen thermal double sided tape cut with the star shape but I don't really trust them. Nylon washers also protect from short circuits.
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