DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
Yes you can George.... you would have to use a gang potentiometer. I couldn't find a good picture of what one looks like, but basically it is more than one potentiometer hooked up to a single shaft.


SBC
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15090112#post15090112 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht


On a different subject:

I asked a question a page or two ago that I think got lost - LED would be the first lighting project I've done that seems to require a splash shield. I'm assuming we want to pick material based on letting the most light though. Glass or acrylic?

Or, are people running these rigs without shields? I see them in the last few photos in the thread, but not in all of the earlier ones.
Click to expand...

I am running mine with an acrylic splash guard on a MiniBow 7. Personally it seems like too much of a risk to run without one.
 
Could I use the 3 watt stars found all over e bay? I posted the specs of some a few posts back. Or are they no where near as bright as the crees? I only ask because you can get them for around $2 each which would cut the cost of my build alot.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15091987#post15091987 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by markywmson
kcress

These are the ones I was looking at. They have the correct (not sure the lingo) bin letters WG

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943

I know it's from DX, but if they are better, I can wait for the shipping.
Click to expand...

FWIW, I asked about those several pages back. They're the right color and all, and apparently the R2 brightness bin is few lumens/watt more output than the more common Q5 bin. Sounds good, given that they're like six cents more than the Q5 at dx.

However, when I did some web searching, all results seemed to indicate that worldwide availablilty is extremly scarce. One poster on a flashlight forum had emailed Cree and received an answer that Cree doesn't mention the R2 bin in their standard documentation because production is extremely limited. Combine that with dx's slow shipping reputation and who knows how long it would take. All that trouble for 5 or 6 more lumens per emitter. Sneeze wrong near the tank and your advantage is gone. :D
 
thanks mr m0delgator

that's a great point. i do think i will order the Q5s then from DX. on my way!

edit: Just ordered 36 of the Q5s from DX. Can't wait for them to get here!
 
Last edited:
Well. In the time it's taken me to get back all the asked questions seem to have been ably answered!

der_wille_zur_macht; As for the acrylic shielding, glass has many issues.

Glass is heavier, more fragile, sensitive to mounting stresses, more thermally shock sensitive, is highly susceptible to edge insults, is substantially less transparent, and attenuates various colors in a non-linear manner.

You should use acrylic and probably not poly carbonate as it too has a tint.


Edit:
Using the forums to advertise goods or services is not permitted.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15091133#post15091133 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
Did you chose acrylic because it is somehow better than glass, or out of convenience?
Click to expand...

I chose acrylic because I could cut it to the bowed shape to fit inside of my canopy.
 
I apologize if this was asked earlier, but I'm looking to build a similar setup at Soundwaves, but the difference is I'll be running a total of 36 LEDs with 3 strings of 6 LEDs per power supply and I'm considering the dimmable buckpucks.

But my quesiton is about optics. For the Cree XRE stars, LEDsupply has the Carclo 20mm optics listed as tight, medium, and wide angle. Does anyone know about what degrees "tight", "medium", and "wide" Correspond to? I'm was thinking that I want to run 25degree optics with my setup.

Also, the optic holders require adhesive to mount to the stars itself. What kind of adhesive are you guys using?

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15095341#post15095341 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by apt220
I apologize if this was asked earlier, but I'm looking to build a similar setup at Soundwaves, but the difference is I'll be running a total of 36 LEDs with 3 strings of 6 LEDs per power supply and I'm considering the dimmable buckpucks.

But my quesiton is about optics. For the Cree XRE stars, LEDsupply has the Carclo 20mm optics listed as tight, medium, and wide angle. Does anyone know about what degrees "tight", "medium", and "wide" Correspond to? I'm was thinking that I want to run 25degree optics with my setup.

Also, the optic holders require adhesive to mount to the stars itself. What kind of adhesive are you guys using?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I ended up using the medium ones, the tight one will create a bad spot light effect. The wide ones don't seem to give off as much light as the tight or medium ones.
 
Thanks for the reply webrage. Would love to see your clean fixture on your tank.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15060133#post15060133 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fernandokng
Here are the details:
1. Standard 58 gallon - 36"L x 18"W
2. 24 Cree XRE Q5 White
3. 24 Cree XRE Royal Blue
4. 8 Buckpucks
5. 4 fans (2 on each heatsink)
6. 48 cree optics/holders - 40 degrees
7. 2 powersupplies
Click to expand...

Fernandokng, great job on your fixture as well. Where did you buy your optics and how did you know they are 40degrees?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15077843#post15077843 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
Before I built this, I would have agreed with you. But after having it over my 10 gallon, I've had to cover two of the three whites because my softies are light shocked and running to hide. When I covered two of them up, they began to extend more and really, while the color was blue, it seemed pretty balanced.

Anyway, that is why the will all be on dimmers. And if I'm getting too much blue, then I'll just dim the middle array, and they will be balanced white with blue.

Thanks for looking and commenting though,
Aaron
Click to expand...

when i do one for a nano i am in the planning stages of, i have considered adding some red leds to the mix. i have this led growlight that i was gonna use for the refugium chamber over the cheato on my current tank build. it gives off a nice purple hue to it. pics: 1 2 3

on that light, it looks like the ratio of red:blue is about 2.5-3 to 1.

thoughts on (3) red + (2) blue + (1) white per string X however many strings i end up doing??
 
Hi james3370.

For growing plants you want waaaaaaaaaaaaay more red than blue. So do what you need to to get there.


ssx5d3bhdu.jpg
 
My parts are ordered and shipped same day from ledsupply. I read a post on one of the forums that you don't want to use a solder gun. Not to go over a 30 watt iron. Can anyone comment on this. I have a 100 watt gun I was wanting to use. Also any tips on soldering the stars as I have very little experience soldering components, but I can sweat copper. I'm afraid the torch would be too much LOL.

Thanks
 
Hi guys. It may be in here... but how are you shielding these from salt spray? Are you putting the splash sheild on your LED fixture, or over the edges of your tanks?

What about coating the exposed wires and connections with Plasti Dip or something similar?
 
Last edited:
I don't know how to use quotes from multiple people in the same thread, so I'll have to type out the names but I'm not going to re-write all the questions.

James: I believe that red light has less energy and does not penetrate very deeply into the water, so most corals don't use any red light for growth. That's most likely different with Terrafirma plants that can absorb all kinds of spectrum. In fact, I remember reading somewhere that too much red light can have an adverse effect on the growth of a coral. (I know,"In God We Trust, all others must show data") So I don't believe red is a good idea. Also, I don't read anything in the reef lighting forum about people supplementing red. Only actinics. That should lead you to make an educated decision.

User 1974,
I don't know the intricacies of soldering, so someone else may need to answer on this, infact, I would appreciate someone's answer on this one, I used a regular plug in type soldering iron. I don't think I fried anything. But I noticed that the solder wouldn't stick to the star very well sometimes. I do not know why. I assume there are different types of solder and I was using the wrong type. I hope someone will point me toward the correct type when I make my larger array.

FishTruck:
I use an 1/8th inch thick sheet of cast acrylic to shield mine. It needs to be cleaned occasionally, but it's working so far.

Cheers, I hope this helped.
Aaron
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
Neptune DDR diy question for AWC
Replies
3
Views
366
Reefing102
Reefing102
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
671
S|\/|S
S
A
Aquarium Temperature Control: How I Hacked My Air Conditioner to control my tanks temperatures
Replies
6
Views
358
Naso180
N
ChadTheSpike
New?
Replies
6
Views
411
EchoVetEcho
E
Reefing102
My UPS - Do you have a UPS back up?
Replies
7
Views
497
Guygettnby
Guygettnby
Back
Top