DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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Got my Crees today. Ordered whites from DealExreme on 7/9 (late night). Was not home to pick up on Friday (7/17). Had to go to post office today to pick it up.
Ordered 26. Tested each with two batteries. All worked fine.
Later this week should have 26 royal blues (from group buy) and two heatsinks.
I'm finally starting my build.... but still do not have power
I'm thinking to go with 4 Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers to drive 52 LEDs. But they are very hard to find and long waiting time
I almost finished new hood for aqurium. Wish I had drivers... can't wait.
I think I found one place that promissing 4 ELN-60-48D in 4 weeks, but they are no cancelation, no returns...
I'll give them a call tomorrow, probably will give them a try.
Ordered 26. Tested each with two batteries. All worked fine.
Later this week should have 26 royal blues (from group buy) and two heatsinks.
I'm finally starting my build.... but still do not have power
I'm thinking to go with 4 Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers to drive 52 LEDs. But they are very hard to find and long waiting time
I almost finished new hood for aqurium. Wish I had drivers... can't wait.
I think I found one place that promissing 4 ELN-60-48D in 4 weeks, but they are no cancelation, no returns...
I'll give them a call tomorrow, probably will give them a try.
update on tank
update on tank
I've been running now for about a month on leds.
My clam is recovering from my light shock as I'm slowly increasing the output. I'm about 1/2 way there now.
All of my polyps are looking nice and my organ pipe is starting to stay out more often.
I'm still not seeing much algae grow on the glass but I am growing the good red corallene(not sure how to spell it).
My hair algae problem is reversing as well.
I had a little outbreak of aptasae that was cured with calcium concentrate.
The led stars are still holding fast with the thermal tape.
Everything is looking really good.
Thanks again for the excellent design soundwave.
update on tank
I've been running now for about a month on leds.
My clam is recovering from my light shock as I'm slowly increasing the output. I'm about 1/2 way there now.
All of my polyps are looking nice and my organ pipe is starting to stay out more often.
I'm still not seeing much algae grow on the glass but I am growing the good red corallene(not sure how to spell it).
My hair algae problem is reversing as well.
I had a little outbreak of aptasae that was cured with calcium concentrate.
The led stars are still holding fast with the thermal tape.
Everything is looking really good.
Thanks again for the excellent design soundwave.
apt220
Member
Kecked, I'm curiuos about the use of thermal tape. Which brand did you use? So I assume it has adhesive on both sides? Also, why do you think it got stronger later? Was it weak at first? And finally, how hard is it to remove?
Sorry about all the questions, I had a terrible time drilling and screwing 72 times on top of the 72 soldering jobs for 36 LEDs.
Sorry about all the questions, I had a terrible time drilling and screwing 72 times on top of the 72 soldering jobs for 36 LEDs.
yupgopotty
New member
I'm not an expert but I have some experience with various tapes. I'm guessing that the thermal tape is curing due to the heat the LEDs are producing, which is why it seems that the tape is getting stronger. The downside to this is it's probably going to be a pain if you ever want to take the tape off... kind of like if you leave masking tape out in the sun for too long, when you try to take it back off it tears and leaves a messy residue.
stugray
Premium Member
I ordered this for my build:
http://www.kvms.com/product/HSFPHASECM.aspx#Package
I am not sure if it is the same as the thermal "tape" that some of you are referring to.
It is a phase change material that is supposed to be even better than thermal grease.
I will be installing them tonight and plan on doing a couple with standard CPU thermal grease so I can compare the thermal conductivity of the two.
They appear to be double sticky, so I am not positive yet if I even need to drill & tap.
Stu
http://www.kvms.com/product/HSFPHASECM.aspx#Package
I am not sure if it is the same as the thermal "tape" that some of you are referring to.
It is a phase change material that is supposed to be even better than thermal grease.
I will be installing them tonight and plan on doing a couple with standard CPU thermal grease so I can compare the thermal conductivity of the two.
They appear to be double sticky, so I am not positive yet if I even need to drill & tap.
Stu
thermal tape
thermal tape
http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-stars-12-p-457.php
Just for the info sake of it for all of you I removed one of the stars and remounted it with new tape. It comes off easy but you need to twist it off rather than put it off with a pair of pliers. I scraped the tape off easily with a razor blade.
When mounted initially, it is very firm. I'd say it is at least 80% as tight when new as when it cooks/sets and it holds with no issue at all. I tried to use it to hold my buck pucks but that doesn't work. Use superglue or epoxy.
Yes the tape is double sized. The stuff I bought from luxeon was cut for the stars already. I used it on cree stars and it fits exactly.
Hope that answered everybodies questions.
thermal tape
http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-stars-12-p-457.php
Just for the info sake of it for all of you I removed one of the stars and remounted it with new tape. It comes off easy but you need to twist it off rather than put it off with a pair of pliers. I scraped the tape off easily with a razor blade.
When mounted initially, it is very firm. I'd say it is at least 80% as tight when new as when it cooks/sets and it holds with no issue at all. I tried to use it to hold my buck pucks but that doesn't work. Use superglue or epoxy.
Yes the tape is double sized. The stuff I bought from luxeon was cut for the stars already. I used it on cree stars and it fits exactly.
Hope that answered everybodies questions.
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der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
FWIW, you can get big square sheets of the exact same material in various thicknesses from lots of vendors (digikey, etc) - Luxeon isn't the only source, unless you want it precut.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
THis:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BER246-ND
Is the same material in sheet form. An 11" x 12" sheet is $41. Is we assume a star is a square .8" on each side, then you can get a 13 x 15 matrix of stars from that sheet. That's 195 stars for $40, or about twenty cents each.
Of course if you need less than 195 stars, you'll need to find a smaller sheet, but this should be a fairly representative example. Digikey doesn't have this material in smaller sheets, but I'm sure someone on the web does.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BER246-ND
Is the same material in sheet form. An 11" x 12" sheet is $41. Is we assume a star is a square .8" on each side, then you can get a 13 x 15 matrix of stars from that sheet. That's 195 stars for $40, or about twenty cents each.
Of course if you need less than 195 stars, you'll need to find a smaller sheet, but this should be a fairly representative example. Digikey doesn't have this material in smaller sheets, but I'm sure someone on the web does.
I have 72 LED's (therefore no way do I want to drill & tap). Itapestore.com has 3M's thermal tape for (1" x 1 yd) for $17.58.
In my case it would be two rolls (& no S&H charge), so I would save $14. I was hoping for more of an incentive so I'll go with the Luxeon tape. Boy the tape is expensive but saves a lot of labor.
In my case it would be two rolls (& no S&H charge), so I would save $14. I was hoping for more of an incentive so I'll go with the Luxeon tape. Boy the tape is expensive but saves a lot of labor.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Perhaps I am alone in this regard, but having what essentially amounts to a desk job where I don't actually DO anything "real" all day, I love the repetitive nature of a project like drilling, tapping, screwing, and soldering a ton of LEDs at home in the evening. You can see and touch the progress you are making, and have a physical product to show as an end result!
stugray
Premium Member
Here are some pics of my first build.
It is more experimental l and just to replace my 36W PC Sump/Macro Grow light.
It will have 6X CREE 6700 Kelvin 3W LEDs ( but I drilled & have parts for 4 more if required ). I will drive them at 700mA.
The first pic shows all my crap: BIG heatsink, LEDs, three different drivers ( LIGHTECH, Meanwell, & OSDRIVER ) various tools:
The second pic shows the 6 LEDs mounted to the big heatsink for the Macro-Grow and my two replacement Moon Lights for my 125G.
I used nylon 8-32 screws. The Moon light covers I made with a heat gun & compressed air. The moon light heatsinks are crappy old CPU heatsinks.
For the 6X LED, I used the phase-change heatsink material on 3 and good old thermal grease on three.
I figured after I get it working, I can stick a temp probe on each of them & see if I can tell a difference.
I'll solder them up tonight.
I think I'll use the OSDRIVER on the moonlights & the Meanwell on the Sump light... we'll see.
Oh, and one thing most builders dont think about: ESD!
Note the dissipative work-surface & the wrist strap....;-)
Stu
It is more experimental l and just to replace my 36W PC Sump/Macro Grow light.
It will have 6X CREE 6700 Kelvin 3W LEDs ( but I drilled & have parts for 4 more if required ). I will drive them at 700mA.
The first pic shows all my crap: BIG heatsink, LEDs, three different drivers ( LIGHTECH, Meanwell, & OSDRIVER ) various tools:
The second pic shows the 6 LEDs mounted to the big heatsink for the Macro-Grow and my two replacement Moon Lights for my 125G.
I used nylon 8-32 screws. The Moon light covers I made with a heat gun & compressed air. The moon light heatsinks are crappy old CPU heatsinks.
For the 6X LED, I used the phase-change heatsink material on 3 and good old thermal grease on three.
I figured after I get it working, I can stick a temp probe on each of them & see if I can tell a difference.
I'll solder them up tonight.
I think I'll use the OSDRIVER on the moonlights & the Meanwell on the Sump light... we'll see.
Oh, and one thing most builders dont think about: ESD!
Note the dissipative work-surface & the wrist strap....;-)
Stu
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I know most of you gents use CREE LEDs... but have any of you used SSC LEDs?
Reason i ask is that they are easier to get over here in the Philippines.
Just want to know if you have tried these and if they are okay.
Here is an ebay link to the kind of SSC LEDs that i can get here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-SSC-P7-Whit...8b4aa282&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|293:1|294:50#ht_2897wt_907
They come in 1 W, 3W and 10W types.
nbc
Reason i ask is that they are easier to get over here in the Philippines.
Just want to know if you have tried these and if they are okay.
Here is an ebay link to the kind of SSC LEDs that i can get here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-SSC-P7-Whit...8b4aa282&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65:12|66:2|39:1|72:1205|293:1|294:50#ht_2897wt_907
They come in 1 W, 3W and 10W types.
nbc
sammy113
New member
Nice covers for the leds, how did you use the compressed air? I know you can actually heat the acrylic and bend it but whats the air for? Never tough of using a big screw like that. Very genius, you just really need to have something pressing the LEDs against the heatsink. I'm going with some screws like that in my next build
yupgopotty
New member
nbc, i think those might be too bright. That's a 10W LED pumping out 700 lumens at 2800mA. It might be overkill on your corals. Also, what driver are you going to use for that?
Also, is there a reason why you're looking at Pure White as opposed to Cool White? Cool White seems to be the norm here (I believe due to CCT).
Also, is there a reason why you're looking at Pure White as opposed to Cool White? Cool White seems to be the norm here (I believe due to CCT).
rEd86
Premium Member
He built a jig that uses the compressed air to "blow" a bubble in the acrylic. The acrylic is sandwiched between two pieces of MDF. One side has the compressor fitting, the other side has a hole the size of the bubble he wants to make. By heating the acrylic with the compressed air on, the acrylic gently bubbles out to form a dome.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15400956#post15400956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sammy113
Nice covers for the leds, how did you use the compressed air? I know you can actually heat the acrylic and bend it but whats the air for? Never tough of using a big screw like that. Very genius, you just really need to have something pressing the LEDs against the heatsink. I'm going with some screws like that in my next build
Very cool idea that I am going to use when my LEDs come in.
--Ed
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