DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

ceg1974 speaks the truth. My first major project (media reactor) was made with the help of a router plate. It works wonders. I also use my Sears router with $15 straight and trim bits from woodcraft. The board it's inserted into was about $20 at HomeDepot. My plan is to make a number of grow out, frag tanks, QT tanks, and a large replacement sump for my 100 poly.

03.02.2007-3.jpg


However, I just got done putting this together last weekend :) (router plate is going in the table)

04.05.2007-1.jpg
 
ceg1974
<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>
 
<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>
ceg1974!

And thank you for using your first post to give me some advise. More specifics would be great. I will be buying a small table saw along with the router (both things ive needed for some time) I really dont know much about the tables, so I dont know what type im looking for. I want a table like acrylics's with the movable fence on the back side of the acrylic (the dangerous way). Space is a concern as I dont have a full garage to work in, and have to store my tools, and bring them out for each use.
As for Melevs bandwidth..... I think thats why he is selling ro/dis now, just to pay for all the bandwidth we eat.:furious: :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9707399#post9707399 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spykes
RokleM wow that's a awesome table saw. Did it come with a rip fence that size?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it can just as easily be done with my temporary setup. That's just a piece of straight MDF clamped to the board at the right length so it runs the opposite side against the router bit.
 
Thanks to all for the welcome messages. I sent a PM to Scuba (or least attempted to), for more in depth router table stuff. Didn't really want to get off the subject of gluing acrylic...
 
Very nice posts were added to this thread in the past few days. Regarding my bandwidth, you guys ate up 140gigs last month. :D Enjoy, we're good.

I love that new tablesaw. The only reason I've not set up a more permanent situation such as that one is because of a lack of room. I tend to have to do a variety of projects in the garage, and I can't give up such space permanently. Tools are shifted from here to there every couple of weeks.

I don't know what I would do with a router table to be honest.

I do need to get some stuff out of the garage, as that would help, but I'm a packrat. ;)
 
Hello All,

In the process of making a sump and gluing up some 3/8 acrylic. The seams are 95% perfect with just an occasional bubble. I was wondering if you could check out these bubbles and tell me if you think they will be a big deal. On the one picture you can see some small bubble like things in the foreground of the seam. In the other picture there is a larger single bubble. Neither of these bubble even goes halfway through the seam so I think it shouldn't be too big of a deal but I wanted some expert advice.

What do you guys think?



112338RC1.jpg


112338RC2.jpg
 
I doubt it would be a big deal provide the rest of your joints are fine. Might try putting a gusset over the affected area - just to be sure.
FWIW, try it without letting it soak so long :)

James
 
Hi James,

Thanks for your comments.

Do you know what causes that type of "Bubble" along the edges in the first pic. It seems to have gotten a little worse as the seem cures. Maybe not enough solvent in that area and air gets sucked in as things start shrinking?
 
It appears to me to be an area where a shim would have helped. Are you gluing straight on a table or using some sort of foam underneath? I glue with foam under so I can shim between the foam and workpiece without affecting the surounding area too much. Tables may not be perfectly flat, material may have thickness variation, the edge may not be perfectly straight, these are all reaons to use foam and shims (where necessary).
Looks like you tried a shim but probably a little late. Soaking for long periods allows the solvent to "set" before you pull your wires/pins at which point shims are not as useful. as the joint has already started seting. You want to place your shim while the the solvent is still viscous IMO.
What you have is not usually called a "bubble", for some reason the term "creep" is what is generally used to describe this type of thing.
FWIW I use .030" and .060" Lexan as shims. Very thin shims such as this along with foam allows you to be fairly precise in placement without lifting up the work.
Hope this makes sence.

James
 
Yes, I agree with everything you are saying...

I wasn't quite getting the whole shim thing but now, with the foam, I understand where you're coming from.

That creeping seems to develop and get worse as the joint cures so I guess I have to nudge a shim if I see the slightest sign of it in the beginning.

I can't tell you how useful this thread has been. Thanks very much!
 
There's kinduva "trick" to it. Immediately after gluing & pulling wires, use a fingernail to go around the joint and lift the horizontal (bottom) piece *just slightly*, if there's any solvent movement in joint - you'll know where you need a shim. Go around the entire joint this way, quickly. This is the other cool part of using foam, the foam allows you to actually get a fingernail under it.
With time and practice, you'll learn how the solvent flows and know exactly where the potential problem areas might be. This is the "art" aspect of acrylic work, it becomes more of a "feel" thing which can't necessarily be taught. It has to be practiced and seen many times, and then you just kinda "know".
BTW, if this is the worst part of the joint - you're doing a terrific job :)

HTH,
James
 
James,

I must have missed the part about the foam. What type and thickness do you use? Is it just as a support for the Acrylic, like a worksurface? What do you use as shims?

Thanks for all your advice and help here!
 
Jpndave,
I simply use camper shell foam (1.25"W x 3/16"thick) available at HD/Lowes. There is a thread entitled "DIY Tank, step by step" which I did a coupla yrs ago that shows pics of it. Also check my gallery as that's where the pics for that thread are located.
.030" & .060" thick Lexan (1/32" & 1/16" respectively) for shims.

HTH,
James
 
This thread rocks (it took me 3 days to read) thanx to melev for his website witch is a great help (I steal alot of his banwith :) ) and to all that have posted hear have answerd most of my questions.

I want to build a sump for my 220g fresh water tank (I know this forum is for marine/reef tanks but I need help and you all have exallent knowlage hear). I was actualy going to make two sumps for it sort of a redundant system in case one went down the other would suport my tank till I could fix it. the size I was going to make it is roughly 29"Lx23"Wx15"H Do I need baffles/bubble traps for fresh water?

Also I was going to make an overflow/weir box for my 220g and I was wondering if it need to be a sertin size and how is the bulkhead attached to the overflow box? I think I saw it in hear but I cant find it again.

I am useing AcryLite FF and have WO# 3,4, &16 And the sewing pins will work fine for the glueing of the acylic right? I am a little confused as every one is using differnt things for the pin method.

Thanx,
Allen
 
Last edited:
Mighty,

[welcome]

I'm just glad I have enough bandwidth for everyone. :)

Since I've never run a freshwater system, I can't give you any advice.

For the overflow, it comes down to how much water you want to drain down from the tank. It can be 2 x 600gph (two 1" bulkheads), or more.
 
Well I have two mag drve 12 pumps that they say put out 1200 GPH per pump but I think with the height of my system it would be more like a total of 2000 gph I was thinking of useing a 2" drain pipe would the overflow/weir box on you're site http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/overflow.html handle that amount of GPH? and how is the bulkhead attached/method used?

Sorry of subject but when I'm done building my 220g tank I want to turn my 46g bowfront into a small reef tank any sugestions on good reading material to reserch on I have never done a marine tank and wish to educate myself a little first.

Thanx,
Allen
 
Last edited:
Well it doesnt have to be 2" I was just trying to make sure the overflow box could handle the GPH my pumps put out:) I have no clue as to what size it realy needs to be.

I also still need to know how to atach the bulkhead to the bottom of the overflow box.

Thanx,
Allen
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

adova
300g DIY Acrylic Tank Recommendations
Replies
5
Views
140
griss
griss
M
  • Question Question
Fixing leak in acrylic aquarium seam with Weld On 4?
Replies
11
Views
609
fish879799
F
C
DIY Stand for Flatback Hexagon Tank
Replies
2
Views
472
Drummer98
Drummer98
S
Phosphate flow out of live rock
Replies
0
Views
140
SantaMonica
S
Rpkneumann
BeanAnimal conversion of an 2005 Oceanic 150 GA Tank - possible?
Replies
9
Views
554
Rpkneumann
Rpkneumann
Back
Top