DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.
- Thread starter Zephrant
- Start date
ZenMastr1968
New member
Great Info
Great Info
This is a great thread guys....thanks for all the tips and tricks. Thought I would bump it back up in the list!
I've spent a lot of time on Melev's site, among others, planning the sump for my new tank. I've been trying to scrounge up the parts, tools, supplies, etc...taking my time with the whole exercise, but should begin assembly shortly.
Thanks for all the work and please keep up the good posts!
Great Info
This is a great thread guys....thanks for all the tips and tricks. Thought I would bump it back up in the list!
I've spent a lot of time on Melev's site, among others, planning the sump for my new tank. I've been trying to scrounge up the parts, tools, supplies, etc...taking my time with the whole exercise, but should begin assembly shortly.
Thanks for all the work and please keep up the good posts!
revclyburn
Active member
keeping this thread alive for those of us in the processing of building things for a our tanks.
revclyburn
revclyburn
ZenMastr1968
New member
If you build it, they will come.....
Order of Assembly Question
Order of Assembly Question
OK guys... I've looked everywhere for this but I just can't find an answer or I'm not getting the big picture...here it goes.
Order of assembly...
Lay the front out on a flat surface and bond the end pieces and baffle(bubble trap and fuge)
Then lay the back piece on a flat surface, turn the front piece 180 degrees and glue it to the back...right?...the gluing should always be done horizontally on a flat surface, not horizontally on the part sticking up into the air...correct me if I'm wrong.
If that is all true...how in the world do you glue up that middle piece in the bubble trap? I don't understand how you could wick solvent into that joint with 2 baffles on each side of it. You would need a needle a foot long!
I know I'm missing something here...what gives?
This thread has been very helpful....Thanks guys!
Order of Assembly Question
OK guys... I've looked everywhere for this but I just can't find an answer or I'm not getting the big picture...here it goes.
Order of assembly...
Lay the front out on a flat surface and bond the end pieces and baffle(bubble trap and fuge)
Then lay the back piece on a flat surface, turn the front piece 180 degrees and glue it to the back...right?...the gluing should always be done horizontally on a flat surface, not horizontally on the part sticking up into the air...correct me if I'm wrong.
If that is all true...how in the world do you glue up that middle piece in the bubble trap? I don't understand how you could wick solvent into that joint with 2 baffles on each side of it. You would need a needle a foot long!
I know I'm missing something here...what gives?
This thread has been very helpful....Thanks guys!
melev
Well-known member
When you glue in the baffles, glue them one at a time. Start with the outer one, let it bond for a few minutes then add th middle one and wick in the solvent. Let it set for a few minutes, then add the third one.
When you flip the project to the opposite side, you'll have to glue all three at once which is a little harder. However, the baffles are only 9" tall (the ones I make anyway) and you can wick in solvent the 4.5" from each end relatively easily.
When you flip the project to the opposite side, you'll have to glue all three at once which is a little harder. However, the baffles are only 9" tall (the ones I make anyway) and you can wick in solvent the 4.5" from each end relatively easily.
Hi Marc,
Thanks for the info!
Just to clarify a couple of things...
When gluing up the bubble trap I can use the pin method for gluing the three baffles to the first side but when I flip it do I use the pins or just wick the seam? I don't see how I can use the pins on the center baffle of the bubble trap.
Everyone's advice is appreciated.
Thanks for the info!
Just to clarify a couple of things...
When gluing up the bubble trap I can use the pin method for gluing the three baffles to the first side but when I flip it do I use the pins or just wick the seam? I don't see how I can use the pins on the center baffle of the bubble trap.
Everyone's advice is appreciated.
Scuba_Steve
Premium Member
Well this was a great read. I read melev's DIY section first which was also a great help. Thanx for all the good advise everyone!
Now for my questions..........
1. Router table. Where can I buy one with the reversed fence? I am definitely budgeted, so hopefully it wont be to much. Can one be DIYed? Doesnt seem like to hard of a DIY job, I just dont know how hard it would be to secure the router in a fashion so it could be easily removed and be stable enough to not move at all.
2. Melev, you recommend size 18 needles on your site, but last I read you prefer 20s?
3. What is everyones favorite bits by far?
4. How about a good budget router. I know this was just asked, but dewalt and porter are out of my price range with a new tank build coming soon.
How about these?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccefaddkilgfhelcefecemldffidfjg.0
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccefaddkilgfhelcefecemldffidfjg.0
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccefaddkilgfhelcefecemldffidfjg.0
Or should I just refigure the budget and spend the extra $100-$150?
5. Flame polishing.... Can someone please go in depth on this process?
Now for my questions..........
1. Router table. Where can I buy one with the reversed fence? I am definitely budgeted, so hopefully it wont be to much. Can one be DIYed? Doesnt seem like to hard of a DIY job, I just dont know how hard it would be to secure the router in a fashion so it could be easily removed and be stable enough to not move at all.
2. Melev, you recommend size 18 needles on your site, but last I read you prefer 20s?
3. What is everyones favorite bits by far?
4. How about a good budget router. I know this was just asked, but dewalt and porter are out of my price range with a new tank build coming soon.
How about these?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccefaddkilgfhelcefecemldffidfjg.0
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccefaddkilgfhelcefecemldffidfjg.0
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccefaddkilgfhelcefecemldffidfjg.0
Or should I just refigure the budget and spend the extra $100-$150?
5. Flame polishing.... Can someone please go in depth on this process?
Last edited:
Hi Steve,
I'll answer the ones I can.
1) You can easily DIY, I have yet to see one on the commercial market but they may be out there. I just found the pics of my last table build so I'll post pics in the next day or two. It's a litle bigger than most would put in their home but will hopefully give you some ideas.
3) For flush cutters - the Whiteside solid carbide spiral up cuts are my favorite. For straight cutters - no particular brand
4) I'm a firm Porter Cable fan but others have come a long way
5) Flame polishing is just a method of polishing edges using a hydrogen / oxygen torch. I use a jewelers torch mostly but a full size can be used as well. With a jewelers torch, it's just like airbrushing. It heats up and glazes the surface of acrylic leaving a polished edge. I'll try to get pics of this as well.
HTH,
James
I'll answer the ones I can.
1) You can easily DIY, I have yet to see one on the commercial market but they may be out there. I just found the pics of my last table build so I'll post pics in the next day or two. It's a litle bigger than most would put in their home but will hopefully give you some ideas.
3) For flush cutters - the Whiteside solid carbide spiral up cuts are my favorite. For straight cutters - no particular brand
4) I'm a firm Porter Cable fan but others have come a long way
5) Flame polishing is just a method of polishing edges using a hydrogen / oxygen torch. I use a jewelers torch mostly but a full size can be used as well. With a jewelers torch, it's just like airbrushing. It heats up and glazes the surface of acrylic leaving a polished edge. I'll try to get pics of this as well.
HTH,
James
spykes
New member
i have this problem where i take off the pins and certain areas just shoots out weldon. Then afterwards some little micro bubbles starts to form in the center of the glue joint. I tried forcing them out from the glue joint with wedges didn't get all of them. is because im using HD acrylic?
melev
Well-known member
If you cut off the corner of the speed square, the solvent will never come in contact with it.
Regarding the needle size, I'm using something that is .035 I think. Another reefer in this thread ordered a bunch of sizes and that was my favorite. However, when trying to get the same from a local accupuncturist, he didn't have a clue what I had even when I gave him a couple. The numbers just didn't make sense to him, and this is his business. Weird.
For a hobbyist making one or two projects, I don't think you need an amazing router. The first one you linked uses 11 amps of power, which is seriously oversized. For this project, you'll probably have it on for a maximum of 15 minutes, or less. The cheap one looks appealing to me only because of the ultra cool LEDs. :lol: Maybe one that is $79 would be good enough for your needs.
I don't use a router table ever. If I ever visit James' shop, that might all change. That's a scary thought.
I've used Spiral Cut router bits and they are awesome. They seem to last forever compared to straight cut bits.
Regarding the needle size, I'm using something that is .035 I think. Another reefer in this thread ordered a bunch of sizes and that was my favorite. However, when trying to get the same from a local accupuncturist, he didn't have a clue what I had even when I gave him a couple. The numbers just didn't make sense to him, and this is his business. Weird.
For a hobbyist making one or two projects, I don't think you need an amazing router. The first one you linked uses 11 amps of power, which is seriously oversized. For this project, you'll probably have it on for a maximum of 15 minutes, or less. The cheap one looks appealing to me only because of the ultra cool LEDs. :lol: Maybe one that is $79 would be good enough for your needs.
I don't use a router table ever. If I ever visit James' shop, that might all change. That's a scary thought.
I've used Spiral Cut router bits and they are awesome. They seem to last forever compared to straight cut bits.
I absolutely love these bits. They are $$ but seem to last alot longer than cheap ryobi and crap like that.
As for pulling the pins out and it splashes out, you have to really take them out slow, and let the piece settle down as opposed to it simply dropping down. Maybe also try waiting slightly longer for the glue to thicken a little more.
jpndave
New member
I have used numerous bits from MLCS and their KATANA bits are excellent, better than Bosch and the other name brands at a much better price. I have used flush cut, panel sets, round over, etc. The cheaper, regular line, not so great. I just got one of their sheer angle bits and hope to try it out on acrylic in the next day or so.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...arthtml/pages/katbt3.htm#kt_shearangle_anchor
I agree with James, Porter Cable is my preference for a table mounted router.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...arthtml/pages/katbt3.htm#kt_shearangle_anchor
I agree with James, Porter Cable is my preference for a table mounted router.
steelerguy
New member
I just wanted to thank everyone who has posted and contributed to this thread. I needed a sump and sent out a few emails to see how much it would be to have it built. It was a little strange of a size 25x10x14 inside dimensions, because the stand for my 50 gallon project is pretty small. After getting prices back anywhere from $250 to $350 plus a minimum of $50 shipping I decided building my own was worth a shot.
I ordered the pieces and the shop I got them from cut them to size for free. I didn't have any scrap, so I figured I would just get to it and hope for the best. I have got to say, for no practice, I am very pleased with the end result. After reading all the posts I decided to make my pins the cheap way and just strip the end of some twist ties. These are two thick if you want to avoid glue seeping out, but I didn't really care if some squirted out, as it didn't have to look perfect to be a sump sitting inside my stand.
I glued the sides to the front, then the back to the sides, then the baffles to the front, then baffles to back, and finally everything to the bottom. All the joints were amazingly bubble free other than the bottom which had a few very small bubbles (due to the cuts not being perfect) but nothing to worry about. I let it cure for a few days, and am currently doing a leak test which so far after a couple hours looks good. I used .25" cell cast acrylic and didn't put a top on it since I figured in real operation it will not be close to being full and the baffles brace it internally. I does not appear to be bowing at all even fully filled for the leak test.
The moral of this story...build your own sump! It was a fun project, came out really well, and is about a fifth to a quarter of the cost of buying a custom one and having it shipped, and pretty simple to do. It took me a few days since I had to glue and wait numerous times, but in a week it was all done and ready to test. I actually found a place that cut and shipped the plexiglas pieces I needed for a little over $50 bucks so I placed two orders in case I screwed up. I'll use thinner wire to build this one and something under it to absorb any glue the squirts out to try to avoid any blemishes. A router would also be handy, but I was able to make due cutting the teeth in for the refugium baffle with a dremel.
Anyway, thanks again to everyone who asked questions and posted comments/suggestions. To those of you on the fence...go for it!
I ordered the pieces and the shop I got them from cut them to size for free. I didn't have any scrap, so I figured I would just get to it and hope for the best. I have got to say, for no practice, I am very pleased with the end result. After reading all the posts I decided to make my pins the cheap way and just strip the end of some twist ties. These are two thick if you want to avoid glue seeping out, but I didn't really care if some squirted out, as it didn't have to look perfect to be a sump sitting inside my stand.
I glued the sides to the front, then the back to the sides, then the baffles to the front, then baffles to back, and finally everything to the bottom. All the joints were amazingly bubble free other than the bottom which had a few very small bubbles (due to the cuts not being perfect) but nothing to worry about. I let it cure for a few days, and am currently doing a leak test which so far after a couple hours looks good. I used .25" cell cast acrylic and didn't put a top on it since I figured in real operation it will not be close to being full and the baffles brace it internally. I does not appear to be bowing at all even fully filled for the leak test.
The moral of this story...build your own sump! It was a fun project, came out really well, and is about a fifth to a quarter of the cost of buying a custom one and having it shipped, and pretty simple to do. It took me a few days since I had to glue and wait numerous times, but in a week it was all done and ready to test. I actually found a place that cut and shipped the plexiglas pieces I needed for a little over $50 bucks so I placed two orders in case I screwed up. I'll use thinner wire to build this one and something under it to absorb any glue the squirts out to try to avoid any blemishes. A router would also be handy, but I was able to make due cutting the teeth in for the refugium baffle with a dremel.
Anyway, thanks again to everyone who asked questions and posted comments/suggestions. To those of you on the fence...go for it!
router recommendation for Steve
router recommendation for Steve
Steve,
I usually do woodworking, currently building a refugium based on Melevs webpage. (I am probably consuming his bandwidth). For the router choices, Craftsman are good budget choices. If you are just using for a sump and minor projects, I would just go with the craftsman budget fixed base router (make sure it will accept both 1/4 and 1/2 shank sizes). The plunge base is nice for many woodworking projects, but I usually use tables with fixed base.
For the router table, these are very easy to build. I have built standalone router tables, benchtop designs, and in the table saw designs. Basically you use a router plate for the top (rousseau and bench dog make plates) if you want ease of removing bits by pulling router out of table. Plates are easy to make out of acrylics as well.... I can send you more specifics dependent on what type of table you are thinking of (cost ranges from $30-$100).
Charlie
router recommendation for Steve
Steve,
I usually do woodworking, currently building a refugium based on Melevs webpage. (I am probably consuming his bandwidth). For the router choices, Craftsman are good budget choices. If you are just using for a sump and minor projects, I would just go with the craftsman budget fixed base router (make sure it will accept both 1/4 and 1/2 shank sizes). The plunge base is nice for many woodworking projects, but I usually use tables with fixed base.
For the router table, these are very easy to build. I have built standalone router tables, benchtop designs, and in the table saw designs. Basically you use a router plate for the top (rousseau and bench dog make plates) if you want ease of removing bits by pulling router out of table. Plates are easy to make out of acrylics as well.... I can send you more specifics dependent on what type of table you are thinking of (cost ranges from $30-$100).
Charlie
