DIY Reef Controller

I finished all my homework for the week, if that counts?

Now I have plenty of time to work on these chips! I will be loading up atmel studios for the first try at burning the bootloader through windows in a little bit so hopefully i'll have good news later tonight.
 
Nice. so what would my shopping list look like if I wanted to start the controller build with just the ph and temp probe? I've never built anything like this before but have been following along best I could. You're not using an arduno board anymore right? You've custom made your board at this point based on the original arduno architecture correct?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
 
WSPep,

The pH isn't supported as of now. That will likely come in a future release. (few months)

I'll get back to you on the shopping list as I still am working on getting the prototype up and running on my tank.

As of right now I am using a board I designed for the project that runs an atmega328 and an attiny85. ATM I am still using the arduino mega as well. Eventually I would like to have the atmega2560 on the board with the other processors but that'll come a bit later.

The arduino mega will control the lcd screen, sd card, moon simulations, and in the future, the wifi/ethernet connection. Where as the atmega328 actually runs the tank. (outlets, leds, temp, ph, etc.)

Once I get this darn bootloader situation figured out theres just a bit of code to finish and we can start beta testing/tutorials! The first release will be for the 3.2" screens as I already have them all created.
 
Okay so pardon my lack of knowledge here but basically you started out by playing around with the Arduno mega and have since built your own custom board with is own separate processing power for the various tasks. Finally, eventually you intend to build the arduno mega's processing capabilities directly into your board but at a later date.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
 
Success! I soldered up an atmega328P-AU onto one of the chips this morning and the programmer read it perfectly first try!

I think I either screwed up the chip when trying to burn the bootloader through the mac since the programmers firmware wasn't up to date, or the static killed the chips. This time around I used a static wristband on a concrete floor and took care to ground myself while soldering.

Nick D.
 
WSPepsilon, correct.

I would have originally added the arduino mega processor to the board but Iteads pcb service didn't allow the tiny pin spacing required for the chip. After I sent in the order for the current boards I talked to Itead and they said they were able to special order boards with smaller pin spacing.
 
So all the errors I was getting with the boards are finally solved! The boards work exactly as the should. I am able to program the bootloaders onto the atmega328 chips and then program them with the on board FTDI chip!

I now am planning to finish up the software side of things and get a prototype onto my tank, at which point I will start posting BOM's/tutorials and sending out boards to anyone who has requested them.

Nick D.
 
So all the errors I was getting with the boards are finally solved! The boards work exactly as the should. I am able to program the bootloaders onto the atmega328 chips and then program them with the on board FTDI chip!

I now am planning to finish up the software side of things and get a prototype onto my tank, at which point I will start posting BOM's/tutorials and sending out boards to anyone who has requested them.

Nick D.

This is great Nick, Im getting excited now. Looking forward to the beta testing.

So are you still using the windows platform for the programing? I already have my MacBook partitioned so I should be good with either method.
 
I am using Atmel studios on Windows only to install the bootloader onto the atmega328 chip and set the attiny85 up correctly.

You will be able to program the on board atmega328 chip by plugging in a usb cord (same cord for arduino) into the board and using the arduino software. I am trying to make this as easy as possible for people to setup and update the program in the future.

The attiny85 on the other hand doesn't have a serial connection and needs to be programed through the icsp header, so i'll program that chip if anyone wants it.
 
Nick,
Can you still add me to the list of people who want boards? I would love to be on the list. Already have the Arduino and the DUO is coming in 8 days. Really like the idea of this controller being hands on and looking forward to your BOM and code updates.

Thanks,
Krazie:jester:
 
Nick,
It's been a week..... How's it going?
Can't wait !!!!
I was thinking. If we use a pressure sensor for ATO couldn't we add a pump shutoff to that as well say if the pressure continiued to drop or if it got to a predefined level?

shark boy
 
Nick,
It's been a week..... How's it going?
Can't wait !!!!
I was thinking. If we use a pressure sensor for ATO couldn't we add a pump shutoff to that as well say if the pressure continiued to drop or if it got to a predefined level?

shark boy

He might need more than a week he had some boot loader problems at the start of the week. I agree with having a shut off for the pump doing the top off if the water goes to low you don't want to kill your pump or run it dry. That usually means pumps will loose there prime and just dry run even in a tank full of water till you get the air out of them.
 
I think he got past the boot loader issues. Swapped out some chips, used an anti static band, and switched over to windows and boom it worked. I think

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
 
I have also started messing with the MPXV5004G Pressure Sensor that woganaga recommended. I have the chip reading out the inches of water and it seems to be pretty accurate.

Hi Nick,

Very interesting thread and some very impressive pcbs you have made.

Just wanted to ask about that pressure sensor and in practical terms what reliable differences in water level /pressure can be obtained.

Wondered of 1/2" of even 1/4" changes could be detected ?

thanks
 
Sharkboy,

Are you talking about adding a feature where if there is no water in your top off reservoir (water level doesn't rise when turning on ATO pump) it will shut off the ATO pump?

Or are you saying to shut off your sump pump if the water level gets too low?

In the second case, I will be using the water level (pressure) as a variable, just like temp, pH, or time, to program each outlet. So if for some reason you wanted to turn your leds off when the water level got to low, you could.


Heres an update on where I'm at.

The bootloader issues were actually me being a moron, haha. I accidentally bought serial crystals instead of parallel. I figured out I ordered the wrong ones a couple days ago, but just got the new ones in the mail today. There is still a bit of software that needs to be written, but after that we are good to go.

For anyone who hasn't purchased their lcd screens yet, PLEASE save yourself the hassle and purchase the shield and LCD screen from Itead studios. The 3.2" screen code will be ready first, although I think the 5" screen is well worth it.

And as far as the 5" screen goes, everything works perfectly with the Itead shield, including the touch screen. I am able to get the UTFT and UTouch library to work with the Due, but not Karlsens SD card library. So as of now I cannot load images from the sd card with the Due.


Nick D.
 
Ricky101,

I haven't tested it that in depth as of yet, only enough to know it was good enought for ATO purposes and that it out performed the Etape. I'll have to get back to you on its accuracy.
 
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