DIY Stands Template and Calculator
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yankee26th
New member
What type of wood did you use? I tried to build for a 180g and I had problems with, wood warping during the build, measurements on one side of the stand different then the other side, etc..... Help !<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14076042#post14076042 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by adamPL
Thanks RocketEngineer great thread.
After a lot of reading, I decided to go with your idea about the stand, but I`ll need your opinion if it will work. Tank is 215gal (72x24x29) but the stand I made is 73x20x36.5
So here's what's been happening so far:
My framing guys made a stand for me, but after that I decided to finish the room with tiling so I took apart almost everything, just left the top part which is connected to the wall. It looks like this:
I covered the wall part with wonderboard, and finished with tiling (I want to have a waterproof room)
Two platforms
Stand ready after 40min work
Deckmate screws
Stand ready, I squeezed the new stand under the plywood
done after 2 hours
Thanks you
yankee26th
New member
How did you get your fittings so perfect. When I tried to build it I had problems with warpage, 2x4's not fitting flush, etc....
Mike de Leon
New member
Tagging along. Seriously considering plywood construction.
RedEDGE2k1
Member
Not really...the compressive strength you are looking at is major axis-major axis, or through the thickness of the plywood rather than through the length (minor axis-minor axis). Since our stands sit on the "edges" of the plywood sheets, the compression force is handled through the length of the panels, not the width. The width is needed to overcome buckling. When you compare the correct compressive strengths of the two types of wood, plywood is stronger.
Also, I've never seen a plywood stand made with exterior grade sheathing. We typically use oak, birch, or the like for its strength, finishing characteristics, and durability.
Lastly, it's misleading to say that plywood and solid wood are roughly the same strength for any given size, for countless reasons. Plywood is stronger in every regard, all across the board.
For sake of discussion we have to assume folks have tools needed to build a DIY stand, or they shouldn't be building anything.
You might say a router, table saw, biscuit cutter, datto blade, etc etc etc is needed to build a plywood stand. I would disagree, because I built a rather complicated plywood stand using none of the aforementioned tools (check my "little red house"). I only used a skill saw, drill, jigsaw, and straight edge. Of course some misc small tools were in the mix as well, but my point is if you have the tools to build a stand out of 2x's and sheathing, then you have the tools to build an all-plywood stand as well.There's not really a need to engineer an aquarium stand unless you are trying to use a minimum amount of wood or are building some sort of funky specialized stand. Wood is STRONG as long as you use proper joints. For 99% of tanks, 3/4" plywood is already overkill, but it's the easiest size to work with because the thickness allows for stronger joints (more end surface to work with).
A couple things here:
"That depends on the quality of materials" - Of course, that's the same with anytyhing in life. In this case, the difference IMO is negligible. A sheet of 3/4" oak plywood is $45, exterior grade sheathing (the ugly construction stuff) is $25. The cost increase is minimal relative to what you're getting.
"Thinner plywood is less expensive and 2x material is easier to come by" - You don't need thin plywood or 2x material if you use 3/4" plywood only. And, every Home Depot and Lowe's I've ever been to sells plywood and 2x members under the same roof. So I don't follow your reasoning that 2x members are easier to come by.
Not really...there are other forces other than "straight down" (gravity) that need to be considered. Water movement in particular puts lateral stress on the stand, which is a non-issue if the stand is made of 3/4" plywood because it is strong in EVERY direction, not just down. Of course, the same is true for a properly sheeted 2x stand, but again, you don't need a sheeted 2x stand if you build with 3/4" plywood from the get-go.
As for door openings, of course we need access to the sump within the stand. I have two large doors on my plywood stand that I built and the stand is still overkill for my tank. The same goes for any mass-produced plywood stand. I have never seen a plywood stand (or any stand for that matter) without sump/storage access inside it. I didn't show door openings in my sketchup model because I was in a hurry and was trying to be simple.
I think it would be interesting for me to go to my LFS and take dimensions and pictures of one of their many mass-produced plywood stands for large tanks. Let's say a 220g stand. Then, come home and build the same stand using the exact same materials, posting a "build thread" here on RC. I would bet a hundred people would chime in to tell me I'm crazy, that I don't know what I'm doing, that the stand will be too weak, that I need some 2x4 corner braces and a 2x8 header, yadda yadda yadda. However, if any one of those folks is given $800 and asked to buy a plywood stand at their LFS store, they would do so and NEVER question the strength of the stand. People do it all the time. The stands do not fail.
Of course, if you don't know what you're doing, it could fail. But again, if you don't know what you're doing, you shouldn't be doing it.
In closing, I certainly agree that 2x stands sheeted in thin ply work just fine and always will. I just think there is a better way, and better for many reasons.
Take care,
Dustin
My stand:
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spsfreak
Premium Member
Gentleman, at this point lets say that both work. It has been proven that both work just fine, it depends on which one an individual personally wants to build, or thinks he\she can build more reliably. I personally would only build rockets design, however I am positive that Rededge's design is just as strong and would work just as well - I just prefer the other. I would have to agree though with Rededge in that plywood is stronger than "regular" wood, that is the reason it was designed like it is; that is to say cross planks glued together.
Good Day folks, and lets build something to hold our tanks, in some form or fashion.:thumbsup:
Good Day folks, and lets build something to hold our tanks, in some form or fashion.:thumbsup:
yankee26th
New member
If your referring to styrofoam, Yes. I always put styrofoam under the bottom of my tanks.
yankee26th
New member
Top frame for your size tank should be at the least 2x8's, according to RocketEngineer.
jpc763
Nothing to see Move along
I have a question about the finish work on these. Most people are using sheet plywood to wrap the box and then cut door holes.
Here is my planned stand.
Can I use 4" x 6' finish oak wood along the top & bottom and 4" x 3' along the right, left and in the center of the doors?
Will it compromise the strength of the design?
Thanks, John
Here is my planned stand.
Can I use 4" x 6' finish oak wood along the top & bottom and 4" x 3' along the right, left and in the center of the doors?
Will it compromise the strength of the design?
Thanks, John
Last edited by a moderator:
LoneRegister
New member
Anyone have ideas on how much weight a 2x6 box will support if it's size 61"x31"? (3 2x4 supports spaced evenly across the center) with 3/4" birch ply across the top screwed into each 2x4 and all around into the 2x6's?
Support by 2x4 butt joints at each end of the recangle into a 2x4 base of 61x31"
I will be placing a 60" x 26" tank onto this.
Kevin
Support by 2x4 butt joints at each end of the recangle into a 2x4 base of 61x31"
I will be placing a 60" x 26" tank onto this.
Kevin
LoneRegister
New member
Basically - my 1st stand was not square so I redesigned it- and my 2nd build is square withing 1/16" of an inch.
I am now at the point where the stand has all the peices in it that the 1st stand has EXCEPT for the butt header that you see in the 1st stand supporting the 2x4 cross supports.
It still has the 3 2x4 cross supports. Screwed into the 2x6's with 2 2-1/2" screws.
Then a 3/4" birch ply is laid on top of that - and screwed to all members.
Additionally- the center brace/leg in the center of the 2x6 run is not present either. So - the 2x6 run across the top is 60" across, leaving about a 56"to58" 2x6 span.
Will this support an acrylic tank of 60"x26"x30" safely?
Can it take the load.
Two questions -
1) Do I need to header the 2x4's?
2) Do I need to run a 3rd 2x6 across the top of the stand at 26 inches?
Or can the 3/4" birch ply handle spreading the load out across the frame?
Thank you for the help! I anxiously await RocketEngineer's analysis.
I am now at the point where the stand has all the peices in it that the 1st stand has EXCEPT for the butt header that you see in the 1st stand supporting the 2x4 cross supports.
It still has the 3 2x4 cross supports. Screwed into the 2x6's with 2 2-1/2" screws.
Then a 3/4" birch ply is laid on top of that - and screwed to all members.
Additionally- the center brace/leg in the center of the 2x6 run is not present either. So - the 2x6 run across the top is 60" across, leaving about a 56"to58" 2x6 span.
Will this support an acrylic tank of 60"x26"x30" safely?
Can it take the load.
Two questions -
1) Do I need to header the 2x4's?
2) Do I need to run a 3rd 2x6 across the top of the stand at 26 inches?
Or can the 3/4" birch ply handle spreading the load out across the frame?
Thank you for the help! I anxiously await RocketEngineer's analysis.
jpc763
Nothing to see Move along
I started my stand today. I have built the bottom box out of 2 x 4, glued and clampped them. I am letting them dry for 24 hours before unclamping and building the top box.
I have a question however.....
The floor (basement) that I am putting the tank on is not level left to right!
It is within the lines on a 4' bubble level, but it is to the left side bubble.
Should I be concerned with that?
Pics to follow later this evening.
John
I have a question however.....
The floor (basement) that I am putting the tank on is not level left to right!
It is within the lines on a 4' bubble level, but it is to the left side bubble.
Should I be concerned with that?
Pics to follow later this evening.
John
yankee26th
New member
I would try and find a thin flexible, but sturdy material that you could place on the floor under the stand that might help to adjust that issue. For example, I always place styrofoam between my tanks and stand to level and distribute pressure throughout the bottom of the tank.
I hope this helps
I hope this helps
OCEAN SIZE
BACK REEFIN'
GENERAL QUESTION - following this DIY thread avidly for months here...
Wouldn't the tank stand be **much** stronger, sturdier, less likely to shift or tip if its shorter?
I ask because I've reconsidered my planned tall-ish (3') stand and am re-thinking to build it shorter, allowing lower viewing as well as top-down viewing for clams.
In Cali, the Big One will be here someday and engineering to deal with it is a reality I face here. Thanks for the info...
Wouldn't the tank stand be **much** stronger, sturdier, less likely to shift or tip if its shorter?
I ask because I've reconsidered my planned tall-ish (3') stand and am re-thinking to build it shorter, allowing lower viewing as well as top-down viewing for clams.
In Cali, the Big One will be here someday and engineering to deal with it is a reality I face here. Thanks for the info...
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