DIY Stands Template and Calculator

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14076042#post14076042 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by adamPL
Thanks RocketEngineer great thread.

After a lot of reading, I decided to go with your idea about the stand, but I`ll need your opinion if it will work. Tank is 215gal (72x24x29) but the stand I made is 73x20x36.5
So here's what's been happening so far:

My framing guys made a stand for me, but after that I decided to finish the room with tiling so I took apart almost everything, just left the top part which is connected to the wall. It looks like this:

89895IMG_2064.JPG


I covered the wall part with wonderboard, and finished with tiling (I want to have a waterproof room)

89895IMG_2079.JPG


Two platforms

89895IMG_2219.JPG


Stand ready after 40min work

89895IMG_2221.JPG


Deckmate screws

89895IMG_2225.JPG


Stand ready, I squeezed the new stand under the plywood

89895IMG_2227.JPG


done after 2 hours

89895IMG_2235.JPG
What type of wood did you use? I tried to build for a 180g and I had problems with, wood warping during the build, measurements on one side of the stand different then the other side, etc..... Help !
Thanks you
 
How did you get your fittings so perfect. When I tried to build it I had problems with warpage, 2x4's not fitting flush, etc....
 
just take a square and mark all sizes with pencil and cut, that all.
I could help you if you would live in NJ:) good lock
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14072363#post14072363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
RedEDGE2k1,

Stronger: The mechanical properties of standard sheathing grade plywood and douglas fir are approximately the same at ~4000 PSI tensile and compressive strength. That being the case, a .75" thick piece of plywood 3.5" wide has the same characteristics as half of one "2X4" of the same length......So therefore the perception that plywood is stronger then the solid wood stand is conditional.

Not really...the compressive strength you are looking at is major axis-major axis, or through the thickness of the plywood rather than through the length (minor axis-minor axis). Since our stands sit on the "edges" of the plywood sheets, the compression force is handled through the length of the panels, not the width. The width is needed to overcome buckling. When you compare the correct compressive strengths of the two types of wood, plywood is stronger.

Also, I've never seen a plywood stand made with exterior grade sheathing. We typically use oak, birch, or the like for its strength, finishing characteristics, and durability.

Lastly, it's misleading to say that plywood and solid wood are roughly the same strength for any given size, for countless reasons. Plywood is stronger in every regard, all across the board.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14072363#post14072363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
RedEDGE2k1,

Faster: That depends on what tools and help one has available to them. For one, how do you hold the side panels upright so you can pre-drill the holes? My original design allows for clamping pieces together or to a carpenters square for easy pre-drilling and tight assembly. Also, how do you cut out the holes in your panels? A drill for a pilot hole and jig saw with guide is one way. A router and guide is another. For mine, a pilot hole and then a counter top edging bit in the router uses the frame as a guide and gives you openings as big as the legs. I would say they are even in time of build.

For sake of discussion we have to assume folks have tools needed to build a DIY stand, or they shouldn't be building anything. :) You might say a router, table saw, biscuit cutter, datto blade, etc etc etc is needed to build a plywood stand. I would disagree, because I built a rather complicated plywood stand using none of the aforementioned tools (check my "little red house"). I only used a skill saw, drill, jigsaw, and straight edge. Of course some misc small tools were in the mix as well, but my point is if you have the tools to build a stand out of 2x's and sheathing, then you have the tools to build an all-plywood stand as well.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14072363#post14072363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
RedEDGE2k1,

Easier: In terms of figuring out sizing to get strength I would say the solid wood is easier to size as its in known steps. Overall, I would like to hear why you think your plan is easier? Fewer pieces surely but the panels seem harder to assemble to me.

There's not really a need to engineer an aquarium stand unless you are trying to use a minimum amount of wood or are building some sort of funky specialized stand. Wood is STRONG as long as you use proper joints. For 99% of tanks, 3/4" plywood is already overkill, but it's the easiest size to work with because the thickness allows for stronger joints (more end surface to work with).

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14072363#post14072363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
RedEDGE2k1,

Cheaper: That depends on the quality of materials. Thinner plywood is less expensive and 2X material is easy to come by where as quality A face plywood can run a pretty penny. If you screw up the plywood you may have to buy a whole new piece where as mine can be faced in strips as several folks on RC have shown. It all depends on the final look.

A couple things here:

"That depends on the quality of materials" - Of course, that's the same with anytyhing in life. In this case, the difference IMO is negligible. A sheet of 3/4" oak plywood is $45, exterior grade sheathing (the ugly construction stuff) is $25. The cost increase is minimal relative to what you're getting.

"Thinner plywood is less expensive and 2x material is easier to come by" - You don't need thin plywood or 2x material if you use 3/4" plywood only. And, every Home Depot and Lowe's I've ever been to sells plywood and 2x members under the same roof. So I don't follow your reasoning that 2x members are easier to come by.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14072363#post14072363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer


schristi69, the whole panel transfers the load only when it is left intact. If the sump is located under the tank, an opening of some kind is need and this will degrade the strength of the stand.

Not really...there are other forces other than "straight down" (gravity) that need to be considered. Water movement in particular puts lateral stress on the stand, which is a non-issue if the stand is made of 3/4" plywood because it is strong in EVERY direction, not just down. Of course, the same is true for a properly sheeted 2x stand, but again, you don't need a sheeted 2x stand if you build with 3/4" plywood from the get-go.

As for door openings, of course we need access to the sump within the stand. I have two large doors on my plywood stand that I built and the stand is still overkill for my tank. The same goes for any mass-produced plywood stand. I have never seen a plywood stand (or any stand for that matter) without sump/storage access inside it. I didn't show door openings in my sketchup model because I was in a hurry and was trying to be simple.

I think it would be interesting for me to go to my LFS and take dimensions and pictures of one of their many mass-produced plywood stands for large tanks. Let's say a 220g stand. Then, come home and build the same stand using the exact same materials, posting a "build thread" here on RC. I would bet a hundred people would chime in to tell me I'm crazy, that I don't know what I'm doing, that the stand will be too weak, that I need some 2x4 corner braces and a 2x8 header, yadda yadda yadda. However, if any one of those folks is given $800 and asked to buy a plywood stand at their LFS store, they would do so and NEVER question the strength of the stand. People do it all the time. The stands do not fail.

Of course, if you don't know what you're doing, it could fail. But again, if you don't know what you're doing, you shouldn't be doing it.

In closing, I certainly agree that 2x stands sheeted in thin ply work just fine and always will. I just think there is a better way, and better for many reasons.

Take care,
Dustin

My stand:

68_Top_And_Bottom_Section-2.jpg~original


FTS_St_Patricks_Day.jpg~original
 
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Gentleman, at this point lets say that both work. It has been proven that both work just fine, it depends on which one an individual personally wants to build, or thinks he\she can build more reliably. I personally would only build rockets design, however I am positive that Rededge's design is just as strong and would work just as well - I just prefer the other. I would have to agree though with Rededge in that plywood is stronger than "regular" wood, that is the reason it was designed like it is; that is to say cross planks glued together.

Good Day folks, and lets build something to hold our tanks, in some form or fashion.:thumbsup:
 
Guys I just checked level and find small different between front wall and stand, as you see on the picture
89895IMG_2233.JPG


Will 1" foam on the top of the plywood help with this situation?
 
I have a question about the finish work on these. Most people are using sheet plywood to wrap the box and then cut door holes.

Here is my planned stand.
StandPicture.jpg~original


Can I use 4" x 6' finish oak wood along the top & bottom and 4" x 3' along the right, left and in the center of the doors?

Will it compromise the strength of the design?

Thanks, John
 
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Yes you can use dimensional lumber to cover the stand. It will not compromise the strength, but at the same time it will not add any strength to it. You might want to do a diagonal on the back to help keep the stand from swaying.

Kim
 
Anyone have ideas on how much weight a 2x6 box will support if it's size 61"x31"? (3 2x4 supports spaced evenly across the center) with 3/4" birch ply across the top screwed into each 2x4 and all around into the 2x6's?

Support by 2x4 butt joints at each end of the recangle into a 2x4 base of 61x31"

I will be placing a 60" x 26" tank onto this.

Kevin
 
Basically - my 1st stand was not square so I redesigned it- and my 2nd build is square withing 1/16" of an inch.

I am now at the point where the stand has all the peices in it that the 1st stand has EXCEPT for the butt header that you see in the 1st stand supporting the 2x4 cross supports.

It still has the 3 2x4 cross supports. Screwed into the 2x6's with 2 2-1/2" screws.

Then a 3/4" birch ply is laid on top of that - and screwed to all members.

Additionally- the center brace/leg in the center of the 2x6 run is not present either. So - the 2x6 run across the top is 60" across, leaving about a 56"to58" 2x6 span.

Will this support an acrylic tank of 60"x26"x30" safely?

Can it take the load.

Two questions -

1) Do I need to header the 2x4's?
2) Do I need to run a 3rd 2x6 across the top of the stand at 26 inches?

Or can the 3/4" birch ply handle spreading the load out across the frame?

Thank you for the help! I anxiously await RocketEngineer's analysis.
 
I started my stand today. I have built the bottom box out of 2 x 4, glued and clampped them. I am letting them dry for 24 hours before unclamping and building the top box.

I have a question however.....

The floor (basement) that I am putting the tank on is not level left to right!

It is within the lines on a 4' bubble level, but it is to the left side bubble.

Should I be concerned with that?

Pics to follow later this evening.

John
 
I would try and find a thin flexible, but sturdy material that you could place on the floor under the stand that might help to adjust that issue. For example, I always place styrofoam between my tanks and stand to level and distribute pressure throughout the bottom of the tank.

I hope this helps
 
GENERAL QUESTION - following this DIY thread avidly for months here... :)

Wouldn't the tank stand be **much** stronger, sturdier, less likely to shift or tip if its shorter?

I ask because I've reconsidered my planned tall-ish (3') stand and am re-thinking to build it shorter, allowing lower viewing as well as top-down viewing for clams.

In Cali, the Big One will be here someday and engineering to deal with it is a reality I face here. Thanks for the info...
 
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