Does the stand need to have a skin? I want to use the design for a tank that I am going to be building into a wall. The front of the stand will be covered with drywall, but I would like to leave the sides and the rear of the stand open so that I can have access. I know that the tank I will be getting will be 72" long, but I not sure of the other dimensions yet.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter RocketEngineer
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RocketEngineer
Space is big.
jeffhaag,
Considering the investment going into that size tank, I wouldn't take chances with the stand. Overbuilding it will help spread the loads out better. For the 36" width, consider placing stringers running front-to-back in several locations. Galvanized deck joists hangers would provide a lot of support and with a stringer say every 20 inches, the tank bottom will be well supported. Nice long decking screws into the ends of the stringers will keep things from twisting. Thats how I would do it anyways.
DrkPhx,
The short answer is no, it doesn't need a skin. However, a skin will add a lot of stiffness to the stand. For an in-wall application, I would just make sure there are enough screws between the legs and the screw strips to keep things square. If you are worried about it, a couple plywood corner stiffeners wouldn't hurt but since its in a wall its unlikely to be pushed sideways by someone running into it.
For those of you building stands, keep the pictures coming. Its always interesting to see the many variations people come up with.
Considering the investment going into that size tank, I wouldn't take chances with the stand. Overbuilding it will help spread the loads out better. For the 36" width, consider placing stringers running front-to-back in several locations. Galvanized deck joists hangers would provide a lot of support and with a stringer say every 20 inches, the tank bottom will be well supported. Nice long decking screws into the ends of the stringers will keep things from twisting. Thats how I would do it anyways.
DrkPhx,
The short answer is no, it doesn't need a skin. However, a skin will add a lot of stiffness to the stand. For an in-wall application, I would just make sure there are enough screws between the legs and the screw strips to keep things square. If you are worried about it, a couple plywood corner stiffeners wouldn't hurt but since its in a wall its unlikely to be pushed sideways by someone running into it.
For those of you building stands, keep the pictures coming. Its always interesting to see the many variations people come up with.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
TeddyRock, I must have missed it. If you could, please send it again.
tinnghe, have a look at the very first page. If you read through the entire, there are several points where the strengths ar discussed.
tinnghe, have a look at the very first page. If you read through the entire, there are several points where the strengths ar discussed.
mario4254
New member
rocket i got a question i got the lumber today ready to build...tank is 120gl 48x24x24...the problem i got is the tank is reef ready and the overflows are in the corners and the holes are right above the frame...is there a solution...has anyone made a stand for a tank like that...thank you in advance...
Siffy
New member
Mario,
Would using a 2x2 screw strip help? Remember the strip doesn't have to come all the way up to the top. You could use the screw strips in reverse (by that I mean which direction the screws are put in), then use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for a very strong skin, and remove the screw strips from the stand once the skin is installed. The strips mainly serve to keep the forms square and once installed the skin will serve that purpose as well or better.
Would using a 2x2 screw strip help? Remember the strip doesn't have to come all the way up to the top. You could use the screw strips in reverse (by that I mean which direction the screws are put in), then use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for a very strong skin, and remove the screw strips from the stand once the skin is installed. The strips mainly serve to keep the forms square and once installed the skin will serve that purpose as well or better.
exoticaquatix
In Memoriam
awesome thread, glad i found it. I will be starting my build in a week or two hopefully and will be using the orignal plans to due so. Hopefully i'll end up with something as nice as so of these.
I have run into a hitch when looking into cabinet doors, however. The whole point of a DIY in my opinion is to do it better and cheaper than a manufactured product. The doors I have found are nearly 75 each for a 20"x30" door. this puts the build, with materials and time factored in even to or more than the cost of a nicer All-Glass stand of a basic oceanic. Besides the links posted earlier does anyone have some info on cheap but decent doors?
Thanks for all the pics and post guys. I hope to contribute soon.
-nick
I have run into a hitch when looking into cabinet doors, however. The whole point of a DIY in my opinion is to do it better and cheaper than a manufactured product. The doors I have found are nearly 75 each for a 20"x30" door. this puts the build, with materials and time factored in even to or more than the cost of a nicer All-Glass stand of a basic oceanic. Besides the links posted earlier does anyone have some info on cheap but decent doors?
Thanks for all the pics and post guys. I hope to contribute soon.
-nick
Siffy
New member
This is the site I got my doors from. You can see pics of my stand and doors a couple pages back.
SQUARE UNF OAK 21" X 30", $17.50/each
https://securewsch01.websitecomplete.com/cabinetdoorsandhardw/shop/showProd.asp?prod=3627
They also have an 18x30 but not 20x30, and they have other styles, wood types, and finished, but that's probably what you're looking for.
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