DIY Stands Template and Calculator

What's the max height I could get out of a 49"Lx19"W stand? I would love to go 38" high, but I'm worried the increased deflection wouldn't be worth the extra 2". I was orginally planning on 36"H. I'm going to use 2x6 for the top section and 2x4 for everything else. This will be for an 80 gallon tank. I know I could use 2x4s for the whole thing, but when in doubt... gas it! I would rather have way too much than not enough. I figure I could put extra braces in the top and bottom square sections (blue pieces in og drawing) to add some rigidity to the stand. What to you guys think?
 
Guess I'm in a similar situation. Tank is 49x26x22. I want the stand to be 44" high. I will be using 2x6 headers. Is that height okay?

What's the max height I could get out of a 49"Lx19"W stand? I would love to go 38" high, but I'm worried the increased deflection wouldn't be worth the extra 2". I was orginally planning on 36"H. I'm going to use 2x6 for the top section and 2x4 for everything else. This will be for an 80 gallon tank. I know I could use 2x4s for the whole thing, but when in doubt... gas it! I would rather have way too much than not enough. I figure I could put extra braces in the top and bottom square sections (blue pieces in og drawing) to add some rigidity to the stand. What to you guys think?
 

I have a 75 gallon tank 48" x 18" with a 32" sump I want in the bottom. How would I use this calculator to plan this? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I got someone to build it for me I just have to have the plans.

Thanks
 
If the sump is 32"L it will fit rather easily inside the bottom of the stand. If your stand will be 48"L and 18"W, as long as the sump is less than that and you compensate for the room you 2x4s take up inside the stand, you should be fine. I would figure out how much room you'll need L x W and then figure out the best placement of the srewstrips to achieve this. And FYI a 2x4 will actually be a 1.5x3.5 when you measure it.
 
What's the max height I could get out of a 49"Lx19"W stand? I would love to go 38" high, but I'm worried the increased deflection wouldn't be worth the extra 2". I was orginally planning on 36"H. I'm going to use 2x6 for the top section and 2x4 for everything else. This will be for an 80 gallon tank. I know I could use 2x4s for the whole thing, but when in doubt... gas it! I would rather have way too much than not enough. I figure I could put extra braces in the top and bottom square sections (blue pieces in og drawing) to add some rigidity to the stand. What to you guys think?

Most of my stands are 48" tall, (which gives room for a sump or second 75 underneath the 75 or 90 on top). Top tanks are still not quite eye level, but getting there. :dance: The design I use may be a bit stronger and more stable than the template can achieve, using this Bob Villa idea to to have a stronger structure with less wood consumed.
http://video.bobvila.com/m/21321078/manufacturing-the-engineered-wood-floor-joists.htm
 
Thank you for posting this thread. I used this to help build my 75g tank stand. The only thing I did different was I used 1x3 on the bottom frame.

Question for you guys who have stained/poly'd your tanks. Do you have to put anything on the stand after you are done putting the poly on? Also do you guys think 4 coats of poly is good enough for a FW tank stand?
 
Would anything be wrong with putting plywood UNDER the bottom frame of the stand instead of on top of the bottom frame for a 180g tank?
 
Just curious why I would still need a crossbar support on the bottom. Wouldn't the attached plywood prevent any flexing of the bottom frame?

Joe
 
Just curious why I would still need a crossbar support on the bottom. Wouldn't the attached plywood prevent any flexing of the bottom frame?

Joe
Yes, I would like to hear a plausible explanation for cross bars and maybe throw in center posts. Both seem singularly nonfunctional and a result of someone's misunderstanding of a board meant as a nailer or an attachment point for a cabinet door latch. When you are not going to plaster, and not going to stick doors on, these pieces make no sense.
 
I did read the whole thread, but I admit it has been a while. I went back and looked at the frist poast before the split - you know thee ONE that started it all. To support the tank all we need is the frame - no plywood. just 2x4s (or larger for larger tanks). Can someone verify this. Thanks
 
I'm using 1/2", but it isn't for structural integrity (so I'm told by my friend who is helping me build it).

here is a shot of mine from last night:
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photo1.jpg


Quick Question!

What thickness would you use to skin your stand? 1/4" or 1/2"

Jeff
 
I'm using 3/4" but only because it was really nice and was on sale. It has a great furniture hadwood A side and was priced at quarter inch soffiting prices. I bought three sheets and should have bought more. There were several bundles of this, and I didn't have a van with me, so I bought three, went home and when I came back, my three were about all that was left.
 
Ok guys, I need a little help and input.
I want to build a stand that is approximately 8' long to accommodate a 40 breeder on each end with an 18" cubs (25g Perfecto) cube in the center.
Should I do one long stand following the basic design of this thread while adding legs for the corner of each tank?
Or could I build 3 separate stands, put them in place, and then connect them with long facer boards when I skin them? I would also connect them via the plywood that the sump and refugium would sit on.
The 2nd idea is the way I am leaning just because it seems more manageable. It will also give me options if I never need to relocate the tanks. I can just remove the skin and have three separate stands again.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Lee
 
Ok guys, I need a little help and input.
I want to build a stand that is approximately 8' long to accommodate a 40 breeder on each end with an 18" cubs (25g Perfecto) cube in the center.
Should I do one long stand following the basic design of this thread while adding legs for the corner of each tank?
Or could I build 3 separate stands, put them in place, and then connect them with long facer boards when I skin them? I would also connect them via the plywood that the sump and refugium would sit on.
The 2nd idea is the way I am leaning just because it seems more manageable. It will also give me options if I never need to relocate the tanks. I can just remove the skin and have three separate stands again.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Lee

I'm partial to the modular approach since before my present stands I've had to cut up the old stands to move tanks. I've moved tanks a couple times now since going modular and it was nice. Building one more modular stand, if my spare time ever lines up, that will hold a 120 and shelves for little tanks underneath.
 
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