DIY: Steve's LED's module

der_wille_zur_macht said:
+1. LEDs have a big flexibility advantage that's completely absent in other forms of lighting - we can swap optics to change where the light goes. With T5 or MH, you typically have only a few reasonable reflector choices, and little or no control over "spread."

Meanwhile, with LEDs, you can put the same array on a 12" tank or a 30" tank and get the same PAR at the sandbed by swapping optics - as long as you understand the increased intensity on the taller tank with narrower optics comes at the cost of decreased spread.

Search this forum for widmer's projector thread - he mounted an LED array on his ceiling and there's pretty much zero spill outside his tank. More or less impossible with what we have available for other forms of lighting, and the same technique could be used to get incredible PAR all the way to the sandbed of the deepest tank you could fit in your home.
Click to expand...

this is something people have a hard time understanding. An optic is something that is used to focus the beam kind of like a mag light. you can make it as bright and pin point as you want or as flooded as you want. this is what is great about LEDS. when I was runing my LED diy system I only cleaned the glass maybe once every 3 weeks. this is because the light is shooting straight down and not on the glass.

der_wille_zur_macht - thank you for the links.
 
If I only had a modicum of DIY prowess, I would be tempted to start this project. Is there a place to start reading about how to assemble a fixture?
 
StevesLEDs said:
Folks, I previously tried to disclose how LEDs are produced, but it got "moderated." With that information, I would be willing to provide datasheets. However, since my displaying information about the products I sell or even referring you to my website is against the rules, to whom can I email the chip datasheets to?
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I am confused. Steves leds can not post the data sheets that everyone is asking for? I know that RC does not want to promote a vender but if people are asking for it someone shoudl be able to post it.
 
longiotti said:
I am confused. Steves leds can not post the data sheets that everyone is asking for? I know that RC does not want to promote a vender but if people are asking for it someone shoudl be able to post it.
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If StevesLEDs specs are posted somewhere online, I don't see why an uninvolved party couldn't post them. The person just can not promote himself or have others "shill" for him disguised as a DIY'er. There is a fine line between putting out information and blatantly shilling/promoting a product line. I think most of the DIY folks here know where that line is and I trust they will be able to judge if someone is crossing the boundary. We are a site for the exchange of information.
 
I get it. makes sense.
so if I got the info or the website was updated I could point a link to in because I am not part of the company or the owner? I mean I am in oregon and I think he is in Texas.
I would not want to read a thread that was hijacked by the owner of the company either. I just thought it was weird how we wanted the data sheets and then the company could not even post them.
 
longiotti said:
I get it. makes sense.
so if I got the info or the website was updated I could point a link to in because I am not part of the company or the owner? I mean I am in oregon and I think he is in Texas.
I would not want to read a thread that was hijacked by the owner of the company either. I just thought it was weird how we wanted the data sheets and then the company could not even post them.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can do this no problem.
 
Little update for this thread. The data sheet doesn't exist for these LED's.

DWZM, How many RB XR-E's do you think it would take to replace a 36" actinic bulb
 
TenKreefer said:
Little update for this thread. The data sheet doesn't exist for these LED's.
Click to expand...

That's too bad.

DWZM, How many RB XR-E's do you think it would take to replace a 36" actinic bulb
Click to expand...

What kind of actinic lamp? T12 VHO? T5 HO? Something else?

Generally, most people who have done direct swaps have found that a LED rig built with high efficiency "known good" HP LEDs will run at 1/3 - 1/2 the wattage of a given high-quality T5HO or VHO lamp. So, for instance, if you had two 4' 110w T12VHO lamps, you might end up with 75w of royal blue LEDs, which is about 20 - 30 LEDs depending on which model you're talking about and what drive current you use. If you're talking about replacing a 54w 4' T5HO lamp, you might be more in the range of 8 - 12 LEDs.
 
T5HO I'm assuming? Yes, that replacement ratio sounds about right. But it would help if we knew more about what you're trying to build - what tank it'll be over, livestock, other lighting, specific LED models and bins you want to try, etc.
 
It's for a friend, and I'm not 100% sure of what he's got setup.

They are T5HO

I would look to replace them with XR-E's

It's a 125g tank that is currently lit by metal halides and he wants to keep the halides but replace all of the actinic bulbs with LEDs. Will the LEDs serve as a suitable actinic supplementation while running alongside the halides?
 
Yes and no, depending on your tastes. Typical Royal Blue LEDs are a little higher in spectrum than typical Actinic lamps, though (especially with T5) there's some variation in what different people consider "actinic."

If you had the option, I'd probably go with XP-E instead of XR-E. They're typically available in slightly higher brightness bins (i.e. more efficient!) and have a wider viewing angle, which is nice when used as supplemental lighting. One struggle with using LEDs as supplemental lighting is that they're fairly directional, even without optics. So, if you're trying to use a small number of them spread over a large tank just to add a bit of color, you run the risk of getting a "spotlight" effect. Hence sometimes when planning a supplemental build it's wise to use a slightly higher count, and run at a lower current, to keep the light evenly distributed.
 
Data Sheets!

Data Sheets!

ok I got the data sheets. they are making my head hurt.
I was also told that the LEDS that he is getting are being made with a 90 degree spreed.
I have never attached a file before but because this is a PDF we will try it. better then trying to cut and paste
Steves email also said the following so please read carefully

Longiotti,
Please see the attached datasheet. I have included the precise item numbers and Bin codes so with some quick research of the various sections of the datasheet, you can determine the precise LED. Please warn people to reference the Bin codes, because the ballpark figures in the first several pages in the datasheet are not indicative of the exact LED I sell. Keep in mind I have these manufactured with a 90° lens.

Royal Blue
-Part# PM2B-3LDE-SD
-Radiometric Power Bin Structure Code Q
-Dominant Wavelength Bin Structure Code 6
-Forward Voltage Bin Structure Code D

10,000K White
-Part# PM2B-3LWE-SD
-Radiometric Power Bin Structure Code W2
-Color Bin # YO
-Forward Voltage Bin Structure Code D

7,000K White
-Part# PM2B-3LWE-SD
-Radiometric Power Bin Structure Code W2
-Color Bin # XN
-Forward Voltage Bin Structure Code D

Thanks!

Steve

ok attaching the PDF did not work, it was to big
so I print screened them and then added IMG lets see if this works

datasheet1.jpg
[/IMG]

datasheet2.jpg
[/IMG]

datasheet3.jpg
[/IMG]

datasheet4.jpg
[/IMG]

datasheet5.jpg
[/IMG]

datasheet6.jpg
[/IMG]

datasheet7.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Those datasheets look like some I got from furuier in shinzen china.

I emailed & corresponded with them a year or so ago, but they only accepted wire transfer or western union.
I didnt want to risk it.

http://www.furuier.com/english/

one thing that was cool about them is that they had LEDs in the 15k to 20k range.

Stu
 
Well, now we know the manufacturer (ProLight, a popular OEM for China-special LEDs, famous for making very accurate ripoffs of the world's most famous HP LEDs).

We also know the efficiency. At 700mA and 3.8vF, the white LEDs are consuming 2.66w. 168.4 lumens produced is 63.3 lumens/watt. For reference, a Cree XP-G R5 is around 130 lumens/watt at 700mA. So, these are about half the efficiency of the typical HP LED being used today. Might not sound like a big deal considering the lower upfront price, but for a typical mid-sized tank, over a 5 year lifetime, that's probably about $500-800 difference in electrical costs.

I hate to sound mean spirited, but several things about those datasheets don't jibe with the specifications posted on Steve's webpage or mentioned in this thread. I don't want to beat a dead horse though so I'll leave it at that. I wonder if this is the actual datasheet for the LEDs being sold, or just something generic from the manufacturer he works with? Especially given the other comments that a datasheet doesn't exist.
 
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