Several points to mention...
My vsnails release their fishing lines when I do any sort of disturbance in the tank where something gets into the water column... esp, when I blast my LR with a turkey baster. I even have one living on a snail.. it's pretty cool...
You can't shortcut nitrate reduction. You have to export nitrates with LR and careful feedings. Also, water changes do reduce nitrates, but can't rid you of nitrates. You always approach zero, but you can never reach it. Your feedings, skimming, and LR to water ratio should be sufficient so that the total effect on the system is zero nitrates -- for a reef tank. Sounds like you have a Fish Only with Live Rock.. Nitrates don't need to be zero in that case, but as low as possible.
Calcium and Alk need to be monitored in tandem. I've never used Kalk, but use a two part system instead. Makes it easy to dose. Get your levels set (I like 4.5 meq/L Alk and 450-500 ppm Ca), then test alk (easy test) and add enough alk to get it up to the proper level and add the same of the calc part (this works because alk and calc are used in tandem in depositing coral skeletons). So, you'll want to check your alkalinity level too, not just calcium...
Wet/Dry setups are going the way of the dinosaur. You're better off with LR/ LR rubble in these areas for nitrate redux. (Bioballs don't harbor the bacteria that break down nitrates). WD setups are considered 'Nitrate Factories' because they can harbor bacteria that converts ammonia and nitrite to nitrate, but can't harbor bacteria that breaks down the nitrate.
It's not recommended to use freshly mixed salt water in an aquarium. It's best to 'age' the water in a large container 24 hours with a powerhead for circulation and heater to match the temp. Freshly mixed salt water is caustic.
I recommend getting a book on the subject. 'The Conscienscious Marine Aquarist' is a great book.
(they can spread fairly quickly...i've got a few on a rock that didnt have any about a week ago..)
