Does anyone QT this way?

Agioniko

New member
I recently acquired some new fish. Regal, Majestic, Emperor, Neon Wrasse, and 4 chromis. They are all in a 40 gallon QT tank. Before putting them into QT I fresh water dipped them. The dip was temp, and Ph adjusted.
Has anyone done this on new arrivals? I dipped the emperor for 20 minutes, he is about 5-6 inches, and pretty fat.
Majestic for 15 minutes he is about 3-4 inches, and the Regal for 10 minutes.
Neon Wrasse, and the Chromis were about 15 minutes.

Here is my question? What doesn't a freshwater dip get rid of? Is it possible that one freshwater dip is not enough to get rid of all parasites? I will probably follow up with PraziPro after all fish are eating, and fat.

I plan on doing daily water changes, and observing Ammonia, and Nitirites.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
Freshwater dips will alleviate flukes and oodinium. They will not cure fish of any parasite.
 
Thanks for the information. They will not alleviate crypto? What would you recommend in your opinion for angels. I am a little uneasy about cupramine as I know it stresses out Angels, and I have heard mixed reviews?
 
Thanks for the information. They will not alleviate crypto?

No, the cyst is embedded too deeply. But even with oodinium, where it WILL alleviate but not cure, it is a temporary measure to relieve those cysts in the gills

What would you recommend in your opinion for angels. I am a little uneasy about cupramine as I know it stresses out Angels, and I have heard mixed reviews?

I personally recommend tank transfer as a cure/prevention of cryptocaryon irritans. The downside is the equipment required and it will do nothing for brook or velvet. For copper, cupramine at 0.35 for four weeks should be fine.
 
Just for future reference: its a good idea to know what treatment options do before doing them.
FW dips do very little, if anything, in most cases. They can provide a little temporary help ( not a cure) with some protozoan parasites and worms (not ich); they cannot completely eliminate any parasite that we commonly deal with. I quit doing them years ago. Prazi-Pro is a must in my QT; and 8+ weeks of QT is absolutely necessary to avoid protozoan parasites; IMO & IME.
You really have a lot of fish to deal with. IMO, your QT is way too small for an adequate QT regimen and I suspect ammonia may already be an issue. An egg crate piece may be needed to keep the Angels from going to war. They will be cramped; but if you can handle the ammonia and territorial problems, they can survive it. IMO, QT time is vital; and sometimes it comes down to what fish "like" and what they"need". A QT should be a very safe and comfortable place, where 'stress' isn't a problem; your fish won't get that benefit. But, if the only alternative,assuming you stick with the 40 gal, is early introduction to your DT---I'd just do the best you can and keep your fingers crossed. (Check Craigslist for a big QT)
 
I was slowly typing (pecking, actually) while Steve was busy posting.
+1 to the tank transfer suggestion and I've treated many Angels with Cupramine at .35 with no problems.
 
Just for future reference: its a good idea to know what treatment options do before doing them.
FW dips do very little, if anything, in most cases. They can provide a little temporary help ( not a cure) with some protozoan parasites and worms (not ich); they cannot completely eliminate any parasite that we commonly deal with. I quit doing them years ago. Prazi-Pro is a must in my QT; and 8+ weeks of QT is absolutely necessary to avoid protozoan parasites; IMO & IME.
You really have a lot of fish to deal with. IMO, your QT is way too small for an adequate QT regimen and I suspect ammonia may already be an issue. An egg crate piece may be needed to keep the Angels from going to war. They will be cramped; but if you can handle the ammonia and territorial problems, they can survive it. IMO, QT time is vital; and sometimes it comes down to what fish "like" and what they"need". A QT should be a very safe and comfortable place, where 'stress' isn't a problem; your fish won't get that benefit. But, if the only alternative,assuming you stick with the 40 gal, is early introduction to your DT---I'd just do the best you can and keep your fingers crossed. (Check Craigslist for a big QT)

A bit rough Mr Tusk Fish :deadhorse:. I am looking for this thread to be positive, and informing. I want it to turn into a thread for acclimation tips of incoming large angel species, and not so typical QT methods that have worked.
So in response I am aware of my treatment options, and I posted because I wanted to see different opinions. As I am sure you know, everyone in this hobby, in the 20 years I have been doing it, has such radically different opinions. So to clarify I did a methylene blue PH adjusted temp F/W dip right after my acclimation. That is kind of what I do with my new arrivals based upon the articles that are out there. Which I am sure you are aware of as well.

So I have used cupramine at .35 for angels specifically for Chaetodontoplus, and I can tell you first hand they really don't like it. I know it works for angels, but I feel that it depends on the individual angel. I really do think this is the case. Also having a pharmaceutical background, Prazipro, is not the end all be all cure as I have first hand dealt with flukes immune to it, and in the medical world they're MANY parasites that develop immunity to praziquentel.

Let me give you my humble opinion of why I like to Freshwater dip. It is a barometer. It tells me if there is something going on, and what the next steps may be. I was wondering if it cured anything, but regardless I would have still done that step as it is more of a test as to what is going on with the fish, and next steps needed for QT. I am curious as to how long people FW dip larger fish as I have read from very reputable sites to go as long as 30 minutes. I will tell you nothing came off in the dips.

As far as the angels go I did separate them with a screen. Not all the way down. The two angels (Regal and majestic) kept going to the same side as the Emperor. I was SHOCKED, but took the screen out as I though there was no need. They had to squeeze in to get there as I left room on the bottom for flow. My goal was to keep the Emperor from going over as I thought the other ones would stay on one side. Also I think my quarters are fine for QTing 21 days not 56 days, unless I see something wrong. So good feedback, and I agree with you as I wouldn't feel comfortable keeping them 56 days in a 40. Quite frankly I am not so comfortable with 40, but I have to make the best with what I have.

Also in response to NH4 it is zero. The NH4 would not raise that quickly in one day with QT fish that have not eaten. NH4 is a concern to your point because it is only 40 gallons, but I am measuring NO2, and NH4 daily while also doing a 15% water change daily. My filtration has been in my sump for over a month so that should help, and the QT water is from my display tank.

Here is what I am looking for. People have had success with the following
Prazipro
Cupramine (mixed)
quinine sulfate
Any other medications?

Does cupramine/Prazipro get the majority of offenders out there? I just don't think it is necessary to treat without reason. To be frank I am not treating for crypto as it is in already in my display tank (I have to assume from imporper quarantine of inverts years ago.) I am more concerned about flukes. I know formalin treats flukes, but it is also very tetrogenic compound? Are there any other safe treatments.....(please don't tell me Potassium Permanganate)
 
Also correction to the post regarding Cupramine and the Scribbleds. I was looking to dose at .15-2.0, and in my notes looks like I got up to .10, and they didn't make it. There could have been other causes, but I think that Copper is rough on Angels, and it can be a crap shoot with different angels having more of a tolerance than others. I am sure even the region where the angel comes from makes a difference.
 
I thought my post above was far from rough; but we all have our own personalities. I'm a real soft little fuzz-ball.
I really don't follow what's going on. Did any fish survive the ich in your DT? If you used filtration from the DT, certainly crypt was introduce to the new QT as well. Using DT water in a QT is usually a good idea; but, of course, this also introduce more parasites. DT water will do nothing to help with ammonia, I'm sure you know, but water isn't cycled----the tank is. What are you using for QT filtration? Do you have adequate surface area to keep a good culture of aerobic bacteria going? Ammonia will start building as soon as you add fish; well-fed or not.
 
Thanks for the information. They will not alleviate crypto? What would you recommend in your opinion for angels. I am a little uneasy about cupramine as I know it stresses out Angels, and I have heard mixed reviews?

Alleviate meaning it will lessen. As Steve stated, it will not totally eradicate any parasite.

Cupramine can suppress a fish appetite, but for the most part, angels handle Cupramine very well.

3-4 weeks of cupramine at therapeutic dose and 2x treatments of prazi is what I recommend and do with all my fish. I wouldn't even bother with FW dips.

Over the last 12 months, I've treated 10+ angels with cupramine and prazi with that protocol without any real issues. PBT+Blue Tang+Achilles with the same method too.

Forgot to mention, I do at least one 1hr formalin dip too.

The only time I've ever had issues was when I bought a fish from someone else that was supposedly QT(w/copper) and that wiped out half my DT.

Now every fish will be QT'd by myself. If not, its not entering my DT.
 
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My misunderstanding.
So back when I was a young buck; I was reckless not practicing safe reefing. Typical behavior of most young people, especially males. :) I have never really had an issue with crypt. Knock on wood I have been very lucky. For the most part I have been pretty fortunate. I have to assume though that I have some pathogens. I kind of go under the assumption that I have crypto as it is so common. Great point too about my DT water potentially adding potential new pathogens to the fish, but there going to have to develop some immunity to it as that is their final destination (hopefully).
My biggest concern for QT is to get rid of any flukes, and some other diseases that can wreak havoc. I do know that I have no monogenic trematodes. I would like to keep it that way.
Filtration on the QT tank is a Marineland canister filter. The pads, and Bioballs were in my main tank sump for a month before going in the canister filter of the QT. QT has been set up for 24 hours using display tank water. I currently also have chemipure in there as I am not using medications. I will be doing a 5 gallon water change daily. Ammonia today at 12 was zero. If ammonia goes higher I can do larger water changes. Thats the plan. Any pearls of wisdom are appreciated
 
When do you formalin. Right before it goes into your DT? Do you let the fish ease in for a week, and fatten them up before using cupramine? What type of angels did you use Cupramine with? What was your dose? .15-.2 or .35? have to tell I get weary to over medicate, or medicate for no reason. These medications do have side effects.
 
Why are you using Cuprmine specifically? What diseases? Have you heard of another compound that can treat this same diseases?

Also when you first acquire a fish do you do some dip before putting it in the QT?
Thanks in advance
 
I've cupramine a LOT of large angelfish... blueface, emp(juvie), passer, blueline(RIP), true and false personifer, scribbled, and chrysurus angel. i've never had a regal or majestic though.

I aim for about .4-.5ppm cupramine. Cupramine at therapeutic for 3-4 weeks will wipe out pretty much all parasites(especially for ich and velvet) and prazi works better for flukes. I do 2-3x treatments of prazi on all fish.

I generally observe to see how well the fish is eating the first couple of days and if eating well, i will go with a full dose of prazi first then start dosing cupramine shortly after, ramping it up to .5ppm over a ~5 day period. So if the fish is eating aggressively early on, I could dose prazi as early as day 2 and start cupramine the day after. If a fish is very slow to eat, it could be a week before I start cupramine.

The formalin dips, some will probably say it is unnecessary and will only work on external parasites, but I still do it. i do it during the fish transfer into the DT. unload about 4gal of DT water into a 5gal bucket. add 4ml 37% formalin plus a couple of air stones. Occasionally, I will do a formalin dip about 2 weeks into my QT too. I think very few people on the forum do formalin dips.

You can read more about formalin dips here..
http://wetwebmedia.com/formalinfaqs.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/formalinart.htm

Here more about about copper..
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/copperprodfaqs.htm
 
I use tank transfer for all new specimens to insure against cryptocaryon irritans.

The initial receiving tank is temp and sg adjusted to the bag water( sg a few points couple of points lower than the bagwater is ok but not higher) This obviates the need for drip acclimation and prolonged stays in bag water where ph can rise and ammonia toxicity can increase once the bag is opened.It is particularly important after prolonged stays in the bag.
During the 12 day tank transfer process ( 3 day stays 4 transfers) I observe for other maladies. Since there are no meds to interact with in the transfer tanks which contain freshly mixed salt water aged and aerated overnight , I can use an ammonia detoxifier during the 3 day period. Bound copper products for example can't be safely used with ammonia detoxifiers as more toxic free copper occurs with lethal copper toxicity,even though total copper measures the same.
If there is reason to suspect infestation with brooklynellosis, vlevet or flukes , I'll do a formalin bath before starting treatment with copper for velvet, foralin for brokklynella or prazi pro for flukes.

Since not all maladies will present symptoms in the 12 days( flukes can easily be missed ) ,I use a larger cycled qt tank for an additional 2 to 4 weeks of observation depending on the condition of the fish with treatment as necessary.

Most fish receive no medications yet all are effectively prophylactically treated for ich,the most common killer

Ammonia is monitored and has never been an issue during the 3 day stay but a detoxifier is added just in case, The cycled tank takes care of itself.
BTW ther is no need to worry about nitrite or nitrate.
 
The writeup above by tmz (Tom) is what I would suggest as the best possible quarantine protocol.
 
Thanks for the info. Quick question regarding ammonia detoxifiers. If using one such as Amquel Plus how long is it in the system for. Does it breakdown quickly. If I used Amquel plus in a QT tank how long would I have to wait to use Cupramine. I have not used amquel, but this is more for mere curiosity if someone has the answer. I would rather stay on the side of caution as TMZ does with his tank transfer method.
 
Also to clarify when I was talking about freshwater dip I meant bath. So a "freshwater bath" of 5-10 minutes would not kill anything. What are the opinions
 
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