Dos and don'ts sump install

[taguluchi]

So my trigger systems sump is supposed to arrive today. I've never had a sump what kind of pvc cleaner and cement do I use? And how long after I glue up the pvc pipes do I have to wait before I can start running my system? Also I have my cobalt neither heaters set at 78 degrees and I want to put them in my sump, am I gonna have to raise the temp on my heaters if I put them in my sump? And what chamber should I house the heaters in? And lastly anything you wish you would've known before installing your sump? Thanks for any help in advance because it is truly appreciated


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[Ron Reefman]

I don't use PVC cleaner. I just wipe it clean with a damp rag and then glue. If it's really ugly, sand it first and then wipe clean. All the PVC cleaners I've used doing other plumbing that doesn't show, leaves an ugly purple stain.

After it's glued and set (5 minutes) it's probably OK if it's not under any pressure. You might wait 30 to 60 minutes to be safe. If you are hooking this up to a tank that is already cycled and running with animals in it, I'd wait 12 to 24 hours, just to play it safe.

Why would you need to turn up the heaters just because you are adding some extra water volume? Is your house that cold? I had a 425g system and ran water outside to a chiller and back (Florida). But we do get some cold... OK, cool, weather that gets down to below 40F. Even then my heater was easily able to keep up.

You can put the heater anywhere, it really doesn't matter if you have decent water flow. Just be careful to keep it from touching the acrylic. The heating element does get hot and it could do damage to the acrylic of the sump.

I wish I had known not to try and keep my sump/refugium clean like the DT. It doesn't help and in fact it may hinder good stuff growing in there. Adding a bit of live rock isn't a bad idea either. Be sure you have the room for 'extra' water in the sump for when the power goes off and the tank siphons water to the sump.

Oh, I almost forgot. Seriously consider doing some kind of water containment system under and around your sump to collect spills, splashes, drips and Heaven forbid... leaks! If you have a nice wood stand and want to keep it nice, consider this idea. Here is a link to the 'drip tray' I made for inside my stand.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24688144&postcount=28

I also did one with some flexible PVC shower pan liner from Lowes on my old 180g system. When the tank developed a big leak, the liner saved me from about 100g of water on the floor by collecting it and running it out of the house!

 

[Lmax8rn]

Oh, I almost forgot. Seriously consider doing some kind of water containment system under and around your sump to collect spills, splashes, drips and Heaven forbid... leaks! If you have a nice wood stand and want to keep it nice, consider this idea. Here is a link to the 'drip tray' I made for inside my stand.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24688144&postcount=28

I also did one with some flexible PVC shower pan liner from Lowes on my old 180g system. When the tank developed a big leak, the liner saved me from about 100g of water on the floor by collecting it and running it out of the house!

I used that rubber bed liner spray (for trucks) and put my sump on 2 X 4's to raise it a bit for easier siphoning if needed.

 

[Bluefish9]

Dos and don'ts sump install

I don't use PVC cleaner. I just wipe it clean with a damp rag and then glue. If it's really ugly, sand it first and then wipe clean. All the PVC cleaners I've used doing other plumbing that doesn't show, leaves an ugly purple stain.



After it's glued and set (5 minutes) it's probably OK if it's not under any pressure. You might wait 30 to 60 minutes to be safe. If you are hooking this up to a tank that is already cycled and running with animals in it, I'd wait 12 to 24 hours, just to play it safe.



Why would you need to turn up the heaters just because you are adding some extra water volume? Is your house that cold? I had a 425g system and ran water outside to a chiller and back (Florida). But we do get some cold... OK, cool, weather that gets down to below 40F. Even then my heater was easily able to keep up.



You can put the heater anywhere, it really doesn't matter if you have decent water flow. Just be careful to keep it from touching the acrylic. The heating element does get hot and it could do damage to the acrylic of the sump.



I wish I had known not to try and keep my sump/refugium clean like the DT. It doesn't help and in fact it may hinder good stuff growing in there. Adding a bit of live rock isn't a bad idea either. Be sure you have the room for 'extra' water in the sump for when the power goes off and the tank siphons water to the sump.



Oh, I almost forgot. Seriously consider doing some kind of water containment system under and around your sump to collect spills, splashes, drips and Heaven forbid... leaks! If you have a nice wood stand and want to keep it nice, consider this idea. Here is a link to the 'drip tray' I made for inside my stand.



http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24688144&postcount=28



I also did one with some flexible PVC shower pan liner from Lowes on my old 180g system. When the tank developed a big leak, the liner saved me from about 100g of water on the floor by collecting it and running it out of the house!

I use the rain r shine blue cement. Its a one step solvent. The only word of caution I can give you if you decide to use it is.... be confident and work fast. It sets in seconds. If done right it is really nice and clean without all that purple primer mess on your pipes. If done 100's of projects with it, including my tanks and my pool and never had one leak.

Oh.... and have ventilation when working with it. Real nasty stuff.


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[fishgate]

I'll just add throw out/return the Cobalt heater and get something else like a Yeager. Cobalt is perhaps the worst heater that I have ever personally used or heard about they almost always fail, leak, explode, etc. They should be banned from the market.

 

[taguluchi]

I don't use PVC cleaner. I just wipe it clean with a damp rag and then glue. If it's really ugly, sand it first and then wipe clean. All the PVC cleaners I've used doing other plumbing that doesn't show, leaves an ugly purple stain.



After it's glued and set (5 minutes) it's probably OK if it's not under any pressure. You might wait 30 to 60 minutes to be safe. If you are hooking this up to a tank that is already cycled and running with animals in it, I'd wait 12 to 24 hours, just to play it safe.



Why would you need to turn up the heaters just because you are adding some extra water volume? Is your house that cold? I had a 425g system and ran water outside to a chiller and back (Florida). But we do get some cold... OK, cool, weather that gets down to below 40F. Even then my heater was easily able to keep up.



You can put the heater anywhere, it really doesn't matter if you have decent water flow. Just be careful to keep it from touching the acrylic. The heating element does get hot and it could do damage to the acrylic of the sump.



I wish I had known not to try and keep my sump/refugium clean like the DT. It doesn't help and in fact it may hinder good stuff growing in there. Adding a bit of live rock isn't a bad idea either. Be sure you have the room for 'extra' water in the sump for when the power goes off and the tank siphons water to the sump.



Oh, I almost forgot. Seriously consider doing some kind of water containment system under and around your sump to collect spills, splashes, drips and Heaven forbid... leaks! If you have a nice wood stand and want to keep it nice, consider this idea. Here is a link to the 'drip tray' I made for inside my stand.



http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24688144&postcount=28



I also did one with some flexible PVC shower pan liner from Lowes on my old 180g system. When the tank developed a big leak, the liner saved me from about 100g of water on the floor by collecting it and running it out of the house!

I live in Michigan and my tank is in my finished basement it can get cold down there but my heaters have always kept up but the liner is something I am gonna do


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[Ron Reefman]

I live in Michigan and my tank is in my finished basement it can get cold down there but my heaters have always kept up but the liner is something I am gonna do

If you need a 2nd heater, that's fine and not a bad thing to have a backup.

As for the liner, I'd NEVER build a new system without one. If it's possible to put in a bulkhead in the liner and run a line to a basement drain in the floor, that makes it awesome. Mine runs out through the wall into the backyard.

I lived in Michigan for 30 years. It's a shame the economy has been so bad, but northern Michigan and the UP is great fun all year round! But I'll take snorkeling in the Florida Keys instead! LOL!

 

[FullBoreReefer]

If you have the space to tee off your return pump again, add another valve and run that pipe back to the filter socks.

Then, if you ever want to clean the sump, you can turn off the main return line to the displays tank, open that new circulation valve, and then continue to clean or blow things off. Now you don't have to stir things up, pump it into the display, only to have it return back to the sump.

Now the sumo can be cleaned, FILTERED, and then put back "online". It's one of the best things I've done.


If you have that floor drain nearby, place another tee on the return pump and run it to the drain, I do this also, talk about an easy water change. Crack a valve and its pumped out versus siphon. With my water station plumbed from the garage, I can do my normal 15gallon water change(2x/mth), in less than 5mins, honestly.

 

[ADAMMP]

Lots of good info. Will be doing a sump soon. Liner is a great idea.

 

[taguluchi]

Now starting the sump I've mixed up 30 gallons worth of saltwater ..... do I just fill up the sump and start the siphon on my overflow and once it's going start the return pump or how did you guys go about it?


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[Desert Sea]

I don't use PVC cleaner. I just wipe it clean with a damp rag and then glue. If it's really ugly, sand it first and then wipe clean. All the PVC cleaners I've used doing other plumbing that doesn't show, leaves an ugly purple stain.

Make sure you use the pvc primer. It serves a purpose. I've seen too many joint failures because it wasn't used. If you don't want the purple stain on your pipe, get the clear primer. The reason it's purple is so that Building Inspectors can verify that the Plumber used primer on the piping.

For our purposes, since aquarium piping isn't subject to inspections, we can use the clear variety.

 

[taguluchi]

Make sure you use the pvc primer. It serves a purpose. I've seen too many joint failures because it wasn't used. If you don't want the purple stain on your pipe, get the clear primer. The reason it's purple is so that Building Inspectors can verify that the Plumber used primer on the piping.



For our purposes, since aquarium piping isn't subject to inspections, we can use the clear variety.

I used the primer I'm not about to take shortcuts on this


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[75mixedreef]

I like to fill the sump half full then add the rest to the display tank and let it overflow into the sump. I don't like the siphon mentioned, you should really have it drilled so the siphon can never fail on you. Its not a matter of if but when. You might not have the tank long enough for it to happen to you but eventually it would.

 

[taguluchi]

I like to fill the sump half full then add the rest to the display tank and let it overflow into the sump. I don't like the siphon mentioned, you should really have it drilled so the siphon can never fail on you. Its not a matter of if but when. You might not have the tank long enough for it to happen to you but eventually it would.

My next tank is going to be drilled


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