Downsizing??? Really???

Hey David, I don't know if you have moved forward with your decision yet or not, but here are some of my opinions. BTW, sorry for the long delay but life got in the way.

I did tank measurements and water volume calculations, but it was a long time ago and not really that important to me. If I remember correctly Red Sea doesn't take the water volume in the overflow into consideration and Cadlight (like everybody else) just uses the overall dimensions of the tank. If you use the Red Sea tank measurements and calculate the water volume it comes out at 185g not 160g.

Sure the Cadlight uses a thinner glass, but it's euro braced and not rimless which makes a huge difference to the strength of the front and back. I really wanted the rimless tank and didn't care for the euro brace design. But the cost difference was way too much for me to ignore, so I got the Cadlight. Now, just over a year later, I love the euro brace. I have 3 DIY tanks that are rimless and water getting over the edge on running down the glass is cut by 95% with the euro brace (BTW, I play in my tanks a lot!). Also, I like having the euro brace to use as a shelf when I'm working in the tank. I can pull stuff out of the tank, like a dead snail or a crab carapace, and just set it on the rim until I'm done in the tank. I also move frags from 2 tanks in a back room to the 2 tanks out front and I often use a small container so I don't drip water everywhere. The container sits very securely on the euro brace. It was also easy to make a DIY screen top to sit on the euro brace.

As for sumps, the Cadlight sump is bigger than the Red Sea. And the Red Sea is a tight fit in the stand as they section off about 25% to 33% for a dry compartment. The Cadlight stand is all open, but they don't utilize all the space. Personally, I don't like the Cadlight sump internal design. What is the small middle section for? Who uses sponge filter material anymore? So I am currently building a new sump that will fill the stand and have a bigger area for a bigger skimmer (I already own) and a refugium which I think is a very worthwhile feature on a marine aquarium system.

The Cadlight skimmer is good, although it's touchy when it comes to water depth, so an auto top off is well advised. The main return pump is a lot like the current Jebao 12,000lph return pump and runs very quietly and puts out VERY little heat.

I was very happy with the build quality of the stand, sump and tank. IMHO it's as good as Red Sea. I learned to like the euro brace. I love the open 'floor plan' stand so I can expand my sump. And both the Red Sea and Cadlight use metric fittings (a PITA if you ask me). The skimmer and pump are good, but you can delete them from your system and get a very fair reduction in cost.

Long story short, I like the Cadlight a little bit more than the Red Sea and it cost me about 30% less delivered.
 
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all and to all a good night!



I got this ceramic ornament at Bonner's Christmas Store in Frankenmuth, Michigan.
 
As I read the first post all I could think of was for you to save the glass and build a whopping plywood tank. Would love to do this in my basement. Maybe something 14 ft long with two windows.
 
Actually I sold the 180g tank to a club member who was going to cut it apart, clean the glass and rebuild it. I'm kind of rare breed in this hobby. I've been around long enough to have gone up size from a 30g, to a 75g, to a 180g, to an additional 75g, to an additional 65g shallow tank and then start the trip back down with the 180g and 75g going away and replaced by a 125g and 50g. And soon the 65g shallow reef/frag tank will go away.
 
Yesterday my wife and I went out to the Lighthouse Beach on Sanibel and did some collecting. She collects shells and takes photos, I tear apart sponges looking for small critters. It was a fun day as we both have just started doing volunteer work for the Bailey Mathews National Shell Museum as Shell Ambassadors. We help the snowbirds and vacationers idea shells and explain the beach eco systems. I draw a lot of attention because I'm the only one tearing sponges apart.

Yesterday's collections:

4 yellow snapping shrimp (aka pistol shrimp)




3 green snapping shrimp




10-12 porcelain crabs in various sizes and colors






2 amenones




Finally a sea squirt tunicate that is a bit bigger than a golf ball



The tunicate in in my 65g shallow reef and has burried itself in the sand with just the tip of it's... it's... mouth(?) sticking out of the sand.
 
We did another beach walk Thursday. Low tide was 8:30am and the temperature outside was 37 degrees! Yikes!

I added a hitchhiker anemone, some macro algae and a 2nd sea squirt tunicate to the shallow reef.

All the new additions earlier in the week seem to be doing fine.
 
crazy to think i have to look all around the internet to find someone that lives a town over for questions/answers lol. I have a redsea 525xl like you mentioned has similar size as your system. I to have had a battle with ideal LED coverage. had two ophek's and that didn't cove it then added kessil then switch and added multiple coral moon box led's. Very frustrating since i like a blanket of light covering everything similar to t5 but done with led's. Wanted to purchase 2 50 Photon V2's since i don't want any shadowing but i have concerns with the side since the fixture is 47.5 while the tank is 59. Please I'm not sure how the 100 degree angles look like. Love corals growing on the back glass and stuff, not sure if two of these will give me what i'm after. I'm up possibly purchasing 5 more moon box led's to match my other 5 cmb's which will give the coverage I'm looking for since they have 120 degree angle lens. Crazy what we do to have the type of light we want. BTW nice setup, you have some skill with building tanks. Impressive glass work! Hope to see you at the swfm club, only went to a few frag swaps, need to go to the next one. Best regards, Brad
 
crazy to think i have to look all around the internet to find someone that lives a town over for questions/answers lol. I have a redsea 525xl like you mentioned has similar size as your system. I to have had a battle with ideal LED coverage. had two ophek's and that didn't cove it then added kessil then switch and added multiple coral moon box led's. Very frustrating since i like a blanket of light covering everything similar to t5 but done with led's. Wanted to purchase 2 50 Photon V2's since i don't want any shadowing but i have concerns with the side since the fixture is 47.5 while the tank is 59. Please I'm not sure how the 100 degree angles look like. Love corals growing on the back glass and stuff, not sure if two of these will give me what i'm after. I'm up possibly purchasing 5 more moon box led's to match my other 5 cmb's which will give the coverage I'm looking for since they have 120 degree angle lens. Crazy what we do to have the type of light we want. BTW nice setup, you have some skill with building tanks. Impressive glass work! Hope to see you at the swfm club, only went to a few frag swaps, need to go to the next one. Best regards, Brad

Just happened on this post... If you really know the light you like you can try rapid led.. they make solder and snap together kits that allow you to make your own lightsetup. It's very very easy, you can pick spectrum of every bulb, lenses, etc. Their coustomer service was very helpful in sizing the correct ballest and electrical kit for me. I have used their night kits and grow lights for fresh and was impressed. Just an honest suggestion I don't have any affiliation.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 
crazy to think i have to look all around the internet to find someone that lives a town over for questions/answers lol. I have a redsea 525xl like you mentioned has similar size as your system. I to have had a battle with ideal LED coverage. had two ophek's and that didn't cove it then added kessil then switch and added multiple coral moon box led's. Very frustrating since i like a blanket of light covering everything similar to t5 but done with led's. Wanted to purchase 2 50 Photon V2's since i don't want any shadowing but i have concerns with the side since the fixture is 47.5 while the tank is 59. Please I'm not sure how the 100 degree angles look like. Love corals growing on the back glass and stuff, not sure if two of these will give me what i'm after. I'm up possibly purchasing 5 more moon box led's to match my other 5 cmb's which will give the coverage I'm looking for since they have 120 degree angle lens. Crazy what we do to have the type of light we want. BTW nice setup, you have some skill with building tanks. Impressive glass work! Hope to see you at the swfm club, only went to a few frag swaps, need to go to the next one. Best regards, Brad

Just happened on this post... If you really know the light you like you can try rapid led.. they make solder and snap together kits that allow you to make your own lightsetup. It's very very easy, you can pick spectrum of every bulb, lenses, etc. Their coustomer service was very helpful in sizing the correct ballest and electrical kit for me. I have used their night kits and grow lights for fresh and was impressed. Just an honest suggestion I don't have any affiliation.

Hi Brad,

The Rapid led idea is a good one if you have the time and desire to make your own fixture. Personally, I don't have the time or desire even thought I enjoy building things.

You are welcome to to come over and see my tank I'll send you a PM with my email and phone #). The 50" Photon V2 does a pretty good job of covering the 60" tank at the ends. I wanted more fron to rear light and added the 2 led strips at the front and back and I'm very happy with the look. I can grow sps corals on the back glass and on the end glass.However, I'm currently moving away from so much sps and lps and more toward zoas and anemones (rock flowers and RBTA).

I don't have any experience with the coral box leds. But I'd like to see your set up some time.

Ron
 
great read from start to finish! I don't recall seeing this and I apologize if I missed it but, are you still running the crossflows? How are they holding up?

Looking forward for more updates on the tank!
 
great read from start to finish! I don't recall seeing this and I apologize if I missed it but, are you still running the crossflows? How are they holding up?

Looking forward for more updates on the tank!

am still running a Crossflow on the main DT (the 125g Cadlight). It's holding up OK but the Crossflow motor doesn't have much torque and therefore needs to be cleaned more than other powerheads. I have a Maxspect Gyre and it has the same issue. Even after they have been cleaned, you need to be quite careful with how you put it back together and get the paddle wheels and cages aligned with the motor or it still won't run.

I have replaced 2 Crossflow motors in the unit I had in my 165g shallow reef which I recently tore down and sold. I would NOT buy a Crossflow or a Gyre again until they start using stronger motors. But that's just my opinion.
 
Hi Ron,
could you please tell me how you plumbed the CAD125, I also have one but the metric plumbing is driving me crazy. I would love to change it all out but I dont know where to start.
 
A half inch bulkhead works in the small hole (snug) and a 3/4" fit loosely in the big hole. Personally I was sorry I didn't drill a hole to create an emergency over flow outside the overflow box.
 
I have a Cadlights 100 and was able to modify the metric fittings so I could have a 1"drain pipe, a 3/4" return and a 1/2" safety drain. The options are limited. Like Ron, I considered drilling the tank but decided against it because it voids the warranty and Cadlights CS sucks anyway and would use any excuse possible to get out of warranty issue.
 
Well, after nearly 15 years of getting bigger and bigger tanks as well as more tanks, it's time to really downsize. I have already sold off my 65g shallow reef and my 20g frag tank along with the 120g sump and stand.

Now I'm working on re-setting my 50g cube with the anemones and a few corals I want from the 125g DT. Once I get that done, and get the last of my current algae issue resolved (it's almost gone after 3 months of work and changes) I'll be selling off the extra corals and the 125g tank, sump and stand.

For starters, I have to ID some of my big zoa colonies. Anybody able to help ID this zoa? And yes, those 2 neon green things are 2 of my baby rock flower anemones. Two of my big ones had about 12 babies... that I've found so far!





I think I know what it is, but I'm looking for confirmation. Thanks.
BTW, if you are in SW Florida and interested my corals, send me a PM and we can talk.
 
OK, I'm selling off corals from my 125g tank. And I'm looking at replacing my 50g cube (24"x24"x20") with a tank that fills the small stand. So the new tank would be 36"x24"x20". I'll be building a new sump as well. This is the cube I want to replace.



I'm going to build the tank and sump with 3/8th glass. I've made 5 other aquariums with black RTV silicone. But I'm considering doing these with 3M Co 5200 adhesive. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

My stand is gloss white and the tank will be 36"x24"x20" and rimless with a white back glass. I think the white 5200 adhesive will look good with the stand.

I'm 95% sure that 3M 5200 will hold the tank together at least as well as RTV silicone. Anybody have any thoughts on that point?
 
Personally, I would stick with the RTV it is tried and proven. I think the black on white would look just fine. I also think you are making a good choice by going a little bigger. It is a nice compromise from your 125.
 
I just heard from 3M Co (I used to work for 3M) and they said 5200 should work better than RTV silicone and can be bought in white or black versions (I intend to use white). They recommended that the areas I want kept clean should be taped off. The 5200 that squeezes out of the joints can be wiped off with a damp rag for longer than RTV silicone can as 5200 has a slow cure time (24-48 hours to tack free). They also said trying to scrape it off the glass after it cures may well prove VERY difficult.
 
Back
Top