Ok i drilled the tank i have a 1 inch bulkhead drain and one 1/2 inch bulkhead return. (The LFS said two 1/2 inch bulkheads wouldn't have enough water movement.) I cant keep the water level the same it keeps fluctuating in the sump everytime i move the drain valve... The slightest movement. I have a 295 gph pump and a 20 gallon tank. Pls help getting really frustrated. I have quite a bit of money in this.
Drilling problem
- Thread starter Pearfish
- Start date
reefdogg1107
Steve
You should be able to adjust the ball valve until it is draining enough to keep up with the return. Do you have a valve on the return as well? I dont see one. Once you get them balanced leave it alone and you should be ok I'd think.
EvenFurther
New member
I'm no expert, but it sounds like your large single drain is working up to pull a full siphon direct from the DT, and your return pump can't keep up. You should have an overflow box for surface skimming the DT water, and other reasons. A gate valve is better than a ball valve, gate type is easier to adjust in small increments/tune the flow.
You would be better off running at least 2 drain lines w/ overflow box, one tuned full siphon, and one carrying slight excess water back to the sump. AKA, Herbie drain.
You current set up has no fail safe features for the drain. If your system is tuned for high flow off 1 drain line, and anything affects it at all, a flood will occur. You really should have an overflow box with Herbie or BeanAnimal drain set-up.
You would be better off running at least 2 drain lines w/ overflow box, one tuned full siphon, and one carrying slight excess water back to the sump. AKA, Herbie drain.
You current set up has no fail safe features for the drain. If your system is tuned for high flow off 1 drain line, and anything affects it at all, a flood will occur. You really should have an overflow box with Herbie or BeanAnimal drain set-up.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
HOLD IT.
On a tank that size you don't need any complex drain system.
What you need to do is remove the valve from the DRAIN. It should be a straight drop into the sump. Any flow control should occur at the PUMP and that should always be on the outlet side of the pump.
Start by fixing those things and see if that corrects the problem.
On a tank that size you don't need any complex drain system.
What you need to do is remove the valve from the DRAIN. It should be a straight drop into the sump. Any flow control should occur at the PUMP and that should always be on the outlet side of the pump.
Start by fixing those things and see if that corrects the problem.
fishgate
Active member
You are screwed. There is no way this will ever work. Your drain will always be at full siphon due to the position on the tank and your return cannot pump enough flow to keep it fed (due to small size of the return pipe). You need to put in an overflow box in the tank and set this up not as a full siphon.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The upturned elbow and "cover" (I'm guessing thats a strainer of some kind) were mentioned in the second post folks.
drauka99
Member
I don't foresee me EVER putting a valve like you have on the drain line of a tank. I have added valves to the end of the drain before so that I could shut off the drain and return to isolate the tank when changing out a sump or cleaning a sump, otherwise the flow from the return pump dictated the amount of water going into the drain.
I'll 3rd.4th or unteenth the motion to remove the valve (or turn it completely open)
I'll 3rd.4th or unteenth the motion to remove the valve (or turn it completely open)
NanoReefWanabe
Active member
your sump is way too full as well…hopefully this is a power out pic and not an operating pic, other wise you are going to have flood troubles with back siphon….
if your fish store told you to put that valve and check in the drain line i would seriously be looking for abetter store, as they know very little of what they are talking about..
you should remove the plumbing from the drain, an redo it wit a simple drop as mentioned and add either an air line or open top…
you really should either buy or build an overflow box to control and skim the water properly…
you should also redrill the hole for the return to also accommodate a 1" bulkhead, then either bush it down to 3/4" or use a valve to control the flow better. or somehow figure out how to make it an emergency drain, and then just run the return up the back side of the tank and over the top.
if your fish store told you to put that valve and check in the drain line i would seriously be looking for abetter store, as they know very little of what they are talking about..
you should remove the plumbing from the drain, an redo it wit a simple drop as mentioned and add either an air line or open top…
you really should either buy or build an overflow box to control and skim the water properly…
you should also redrill the hole for the return to also accommodate a 1" bulkhead, then either bush it down to 3/4" or use a valve to control the flow better. or somehow figure out how to make it an emergency drain, and then just run the return up the back side of the tank and over the top.
I thnk your also asking for trouble restricting a drain without any type of emergency , it's going to be hard to match the return pump and if your mistake is in the wrong direction the tank will overflow unless the return runs dry . As well with a pump that small after head pressure I would imagine the ball valve is almost full closed in order to get it to fill and then yes the smallest move will have a larger effect , you'll def want a gate valve for this. I'm also not a fan of soft lines and holes drilled into back panels with thin glass I would have put a 90 degree elbow then fed to the bottom of the elbow instead of straight in 
