B.
Hey Brett I hope your happy!
I'm ordering my kz products this week.
IT'S ALL YOUR FAULT!!
p.s thanks
I do too, it's one of my largest and most colorful frags. I would start dosing a bacteria source, MB7 is a good one, anytime now. There's different bacterias out there - MB7, Special Blend, Bio-Mate, etc... Any of these would work great. My personal feeling is it's best to get your bacterial cultures going from the start cycle or not. That way you won't have to backtrack down the road. There's still going to be quite a bit of stored PO4 in the rock so the more bacteria working to get rid of it, the better.
Hey Tony, the Hanna Alk Checker is awesome you'll love it. There's been some controversy about the syringe and pipette tip included in the kit. What I'm doing, which has been tested and verified by some hard core reef guys is this... Ditch the pipette tip altogether. Just use the syringe to draw 1ml of the reagent. 1ml is 1ml whether the pipette tip is used or not. I actually replaced the syringe with a higher quality one as well. Seems like I get a more accurate "plunge" with the new syringe, but probably not necessary.
So here's my process.
1. Fill and empty the cuvette with tank water a few times to ensure no contaminants are inside the cuvette.
2. Fill the cuvette so the bottom of the meniscus is right at the line on the vial. Screw lid on cuvette.
3. Push button to turn on Checker.
4. Place the cuvette in the Checker to zero out the unit, push button. I place the 10ml indicator forward for consistency.
5. Remove cuvette from Checker. Draw 1ml of reagent with syringe (no tip). Add reagent to the water sample, cap and invert 5 times to mix.
6. Place cuvette with 10ml mark facing forward into Checker and press the button for your result.
7. Rinse cuvette with RODI water and store back in box.
So far mine is very willing to eat the flake foods I feed the tank. He actually sees me coming and will swim up to the top of the tank to get first dibs on the food I dump in. Hopefully that behavior will last.
Dang, sorry to hear that.
Yes, with the syringe pointed down as to draw in liquid, pull the plunger up to draw the reagent into the syringe so the bottom of the plunger (closest to the liquid) is at the 0.0ml mark. It's actually not marked 0.0ml on the syringe but there is a 0.1ml mark indicated. You will see 10 hash marks above 0.1ml so the last solid line, closest to the plunger handle, is 0.0ml. There will be 0.5ml of air between the bottom of the plunger and the liquid reagent. This is to account for the small tip built into the syringe. The tip end of the syringe holds 0.5ml, which is typical for most syringes.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense, I tried to describe as detailed as I could. Oh and also let me know how the new Ultra Low Range Checker works for you!
Oh and also let me know how the new Ultra Low Range Checker works for you!
Drum Roll.....Drummereef!........
HI 736 ultra low checker numbers:
Tank 1 test..................................... 5ppb = .0153ppm PO4
RO/DI water from the line................ 11ppb = .0337ppm PO4
Tap water out of faucet...................179ppb = .549ppm PO4:eek2:
Tank 2 test ~ 30mins after test 1...... 4ppb = .0123ppm PO4 :beer:
-Well the tests confirm accurate readings between 2 different tests on the tank!!
-I am shocked to see that high of PO4 straight from my RO/DI. What were you testing, i remember you said you were testing PO4 in you RO/Di water.
-This definitly shows why not to use TAP water!
This is a sweet checker and more effective reading than the 713, plus since it is reading in ppb it should be more accurate!!
Well I am making RO/DI water right now for a WC, so I can measure PO4 after the water is mixed & se if it goes up for me from the 11ppb out ot the RO/DI.
Here is my piece. You can't see the stuff on the tips but it's there. Just super small that my camera can't capture them. Slowly it will turn into like your picture (one of frag already die from it):
