cromedogg33
Member
With the radiums on they don't make a ton of difference but yes they make a little bit. The 24 definately work as actinics and is plenty of light to act as dawn/dusk.
drummereef's 180g in-wall build
- Thread starter drummereef
- Start date
110galreef
New member
Brett,
If you plan to go LED for acctinics look into:
XTE RB's for the LED's and then the inventronics 40w 700mA drivers. You can run up to 16 LEDS's per driver @ 700mA. XTE have more lumens per watt & run at a lower mA to allow the few extra per string with the inventronics driver opposed to the typical meanwells
So 2 strings net of 32 LEDS.....
I have really been considering adding these to my MH's....or may just go with tried & true T-5's????
If you plan to go LED for acctinics look into:
XTE RB's for the LED's and then the inventronics 40w 700mA drivers. You can run up to 16 LEDS's per driver @ 700mA. XTE have more lumens per watt & run at a lower mA to allow the few extra per string with the inventronics driver opposed to the typical meanwells
So 2 strings net of 32 LEDS.....
I have really been considering adding these to my MH's....or may just go with tried & true T-5's????
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cromedogg33
Member
Brett,
How is your macro growing? I just set up a 20g frag/refuge tank...(got tired of looking at a frag frack in my DT)
I thought about chaeto but am just nervous if it wonders into the overflow. I've been thinking about the red gracilaria but I don't have experience with it as far as nutrient export. How has yours been doing?
How is your macro growing? I just set up a 20g frag/refuge tank...(got tired of looking at a frag frack in my DT)
I thought about chaeto but am just nervous if it wonders into the overflow. I've been thinking about the red gracilaria but I don't have experience with it as far as nutrient export. How has yours been doing?
drummereef
Team RC
Awesome, thanks again crome.
Excellent info 110g. I will definitely look into those. I haven't done much specific research on individual led setups but I'll take your word for it. Where can you buy the Inventronics 40w 700mA drivers?
I have considered T5 actinic supplementation as well but like how small of a footprint the LEDs would add. But, what would be the difference between 2x 4' actinic T5's versus 24-32 RB LEDs as far as watts or light penetration? i.e. which would be brighter?
My Chaeto is doing OK. I had quite a bit of red slime/cyano develop in the fuge which I've siphoned out a couple times but it's starting to recede on it's own now.. Unfortunately it took out my Red Gracilaria in the process. It was literally covered in cyano and eventually melted. There's a little cyano and dinos growing in the Chaeto but it's held on. I might do a 3-day lights out period to see if I can eliminate the rest of it and then move forward with adding some new species. I presume it was a natural cycle from the Pukani rock but it's looking a lot more stable than a couple weeks ago. I also have gone to a reverse light cycle to limit the photo period which has helped minimize excess nuisance growth as well.
I added some Gutter Guard to the overflows in the fuge a couple days ago. I'll post a pic tonight showing what I did. I think it helps, or at least gives me some piece of mind I won't have any undue flooding.
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drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
So here's the Gutter Guard screens I added to the overflows in the refugium. As long as I perform regular cleaning/maintenance on them they should at least reduce the risk of a snail or some rogue macro getting sucked into the drain. Another plus is they diffuse the water going through them enough to significantly cut down on excess drain noise. So all in all they seem to be working out OK.
As you can see it's simply a small piece of Gutter Guard wrapped into a cylindrical shape.
Once I had the diameter where I wanted it, I secured the Gutter Guard with a wire tie.
And here you can see both guards in place. They just slide into position so removing them for cleaning is simple and quick.
So here's the Gutter Guard screens I added to the overflows in the refugium. As long as I perform regular cleaning/maintenance on them they should at least reduce the risk of a snail or some rogue macro getting sucked into the drain. Another plus is they diffuse the water going through them enough to significantly cut down on excess drain noise. So all in all they seem to be working out OK.
As you can see it's simply a small piece of Gutter Guard wrapped into a cylindrical shape.
Once I had the diameter where I wanted it, I secured the Gutter Guard with a wire tie.
And here you can see both guards in place. They just slide into position so removing them for cleaning is simple and quick.
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110galreef
New member
here
http://reefledlights.com/shop/inventronics-40-watt-dimmable-driver/
and also a few other places, all basically the same price.
Between T-5 and LED i honestly feel it is just what you prefer. I don't think either will be really brighter than the other, penetrate more or flourece more.
Pro's to LED's:
last many years, one and done,
dimmable and rampable
tad bit less heat
tad less energy ~ 20w
Con's:
more wiring and tinkering and soldering and getting to work
can be more clutter with the wires (you'll hide! :lmao
T-5
Pro's
quick easy setup install,
can adjust colors via differnent bulbs if you want.
Con's
have to swap in new bulbs every yr or so, but pretty cheap.
The cost between both is about the same, LED may almost be cheaper now.
I think it just comes down to what technology you want to try and install.
Also why the gutter guard and not just this? Maybe you didn't know they were out there or maybe you just HAD to make something! haha:rollface:
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/BH15-STR.html
iced98lx
New member
Thanks iced. Now if I can just get them to color up...
Having the same issues over here with SPS in my cube. I'm less concerned since they're growing like weeds, but if they don't color up in my big tank, then I'll be crying.
Charley Diesing
New member
One of my all time favorite builds! Especially the mechanical side of things, super neat, and tidy job! Awesome work, man!
jordancemery65
New member
Loved reading this build! I have a question? I read a post from you stating that you have been using Zeozym. I recently have started dosing vodka because of high nitrates. I was wondering if i could also dose the Zeozym or would that be too much?
drummereef
Team RC
here
http://reefledlights.com/shop/inventronics-40-watt-dimmable-driver/
and also a few other places, all basically the same price.
Between T-5 and LED i honestly feel it is just what you prefer. I don't think either will be really brighter than the other, penetrate more or flourece more.
Pro's to LED's:
last many years, one and done,
dimmable and rampable
tad bit less heat
tad less energy ~ 20w
Con's:
more wiring and tinkering and soldering and getting to work
can be more clutter with the wires (you'll hide! :lmao
T-5
Pro's
quick easy setup install,
can adjust colors via differnent bulbs if you want.
Con's
have to swap in new bulbs every yr or so, but pretty cheap.
The cost between both is about the same, LED may almost be cheaper now.
I think it just comes down to what technology you want to try and install.
Also why the gutter guard and not just this? Maybe you didn't know they were out there or maybe you just HAD to make something! haha:rollface:
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/BH15-STR.html
Thank you for all that info, excellent!
I'm still mapping out how I can incorporate the LEDs on my light rack and still have decent light spread without being too close to the glass etc... cromedogg did it so I'm taking his word for it that it works. 
I considered the strainers for the overflows but decided they would raise the water level inside the refugium, because of the way they thread into a bulkhead/fitting, to an uncomfortable height. The water level is set to pretty much max so using the Gutter Guard was an easy solution without raising the overall water level.
Ha! I hear that.
Thank you very much Charley - much appreciated.
I don't see why you couldn't. If I remember correctly, you should be dosing a bacteria like MB7 or equivalent regularly if you are dosing vodka anyway (if memory serves). So when you dose your bacteria, add it to a few cups of tank water with the ZeoZym from time to time. Or dose the ZeoZym alone, your choice. I've found the combination of bacteria and ZeoZym to be a powerful combination for boosting the bacteria's effectiveness. Water looks clearer and rocks and substrate look cleaner after dosing together.
Ha! The Gutter Guard was a major project, I'll have to do some recovering before the next. Hahahaha! No really, I'm seriously considering adding some LEDs to my light rack. Still researching options but getting closer.
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110galreef
New member
I just re calculated MY LED acctinic vs t-5:
I like the TEK T-5 2 bulb retro kit 60"
--$129 + 2 bulbs(~$50) $179
plus a few odds & ends wires, etc $20
Hanging kit $30 you wont need...
~ $230 installed. ($200 You)
LED:
XT-E RB's 32 = $98.10
Inventronics drivers 40w 700mA x 2= $65
Optics 80* x 32 += ~$42
wire & misc~ $25
led seal ~$15
Basics aluminum channel for heatsinks = $40 U won't need, just mount to your rig.
Hanging Kit $30...you wont need
APEX alread both have! $0
~$315 installed (~$245 for you)
I will need to add some aluminum structure to mount lights or LEDs in either situation with my MH's, but mute cost for you~ $50
Here was my plan originally if it helps you:
(i also contemplated adding 14 XM-L CW LED's fo a High Noon Punch run for a few hrs/day of intense light for my SPS! Intense LED's)
I like the TEK T-5 2 bulb retro kit 60"
--$129 + 2 bulbs(~$50) $179
plus a few odds & ends wires, etc $20
Hanging kit $30 you wont need...
~ $230 installed. ($200 You)
LED:
XT-E RB's 32 = $98.10
Inventronics drivers 40w 700mA x 2= $65
Optics 80* x 32 += ~$42
wire & misc~ $25
led seal ~$15
Basics aluminum channel for heatsinks = $40 U won't need, just mount to your rig.
Hanging Kit $30...you wont need
APEX alread both have! $0
~$315 installed (~$245 for you)
I will need to add some aluminum structure to mount lights or LEDs in either situation with my MH's, but mute cost for you~ $50
Here was my plan originally if it helps you:
(i also contemplated adding 14 XM-L CW LED's fo a High Noon Punch run for a few hrs/day of intense light for my SPS! Intense LED's)
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iced98lx
New member
Brett- not sure it will help you but I recently got pretty determined to figure out some coloring issues on a couple pieces of SPS after adding a Pink Mille and Green Acro that I really really didn't want to brown out. I was testing nutrient wise very good (like your tank) and believed I had enough light (like your tank). I finally in desperation dropped my temp from 80 to about 78. All my SPS and LPS have responded positively. It may be short lived (not sure yet) but in 3 days the difference is clear on my SPS and as a bonus my LPS. Might be worth giving a try if your temp is around the warm side of suggested as mine was.
Otherwise, I like the idea of adding some LED's for some pop and ability to do some neat sunset/sunrise effects.
Otherwise, I like the idea of adding some LED's for some pop and ability to do some neat sunset/sunrise effects.
cromedogg33
Member
110,
I think 32 LED's would be far overkill for his tank for actinics. I'm running 22 total I think after losing 1 or 2. I don't think another 10-12 wouldn't do anything for my tank or make it any brighter or bluer.
http://www.rapidled.com/24-led-actinic-supplement-kit/
He would be perfectly ok with this IMO. Cheap/quick/efficient. I believe if you look at some of the fixtures companies are selling they barely have 30+ LED's in them.
Edit: Only thing you would need beyond that kit is optics if you choose.
I think 32 LED's would be far overkill for his tank for actinics. I'm running 22 total I think after losing 1 or 2. I don't think another 10-12 wouldn't do anything for my tank or make it any brighter or bluer.
http://www.rapidled.com/24-led-actinic-supplement-kit/
He would be perfectly ok with this IMO. Cheap/quick/efficient. I believe if you look at some of the fixtures companies are selling they barely have 30+ LED's in them.
Edit: Only thing you would need beyond that kit is optics if you choose.
110galreef
New member
It's good to know that 24 should be enuf. I wasn't sure thus why I was planning 32 LEDs. it can't hurt but waste like $30 for the 8 extra led given they can easily be dimmed. I looked at those kits. Great bank for the buck! But another heatsink rail would he need if going that route. Plus the drivers are not dimmable and with apex it maybe nice. Either way just all options and about same cost. Also the inventronics if I remember right have better power factors and can run 1 more led per string led if needed than the meanwells.
cromedogg33
Member
No heatsink rail would be needed. He can thermal adhesive them directly onto the aluminum rail he's using currently....Same exact one as mine, works out really nicely.
drummereef
Team RC
Awesome, thank you! Great layout. I'm going to post some ideas I have to bounce some ideas off you guys...
Indeed. I recently dropped my temp to 78F as well - probably 2 or 3 weeks ago. I have noticed a slight difference in color but the biggest difference I've noticed is growth. Don't know if it's temp related or not but it's been a nice surprise.
Great, thanks!
Like I was telling 110g, I'll post up some ideas I have and see what you guys think. BTW, how big are the CREE stars? Do they fit comfortably on a 1" heat sink or is slightly larger better?
drummereef
Team RC
Also... where can you buy a ~1" heat sink that is longer than 48" - like 60"? HeatsinkUSA has some but is there another place online for a different option?
Just brainstorming options here...
Just brainstorming options here...
iced98lx
New member
Glad it's not just me being crazy lol. I May have found my issue, sadly it's not something you'd be silly enough to let happen :hmm2:
:sad1:Are you sure you don't want to come to the multi-chip madness dark side?? How about the ""Dream Chip"" with 5 independent channels that you can dim to get "Just that right look" ?? I'm Likely doing 3 big multichips over my 180.
As for your heatsink, I do not know but U channel/ C Channel seems to work pretty well, depending how many you're putting on there.
drummereef
Team RC
Glad it's not just me being crazy lol. I May have found my issue, sadly it's not something you'd be silly enough to let happen :hmm2:
Are you sure you don't want to come to the multi-chip madness dark side?? How about the ""Dream Chip"" with 5 independent channels that you can dim to get "Just that right look" ?? I'm Likely doing 3 big multichips over my 180.
As for your heatsink, I do not know but U channel/ C Channel seems to work pretty well, depending how many you're putting on there.
Thanks for the info iced. How much do you estimate the Dream Chip LEDs would be to DIY - with heatsink, driver, etc...? I've seen them, in passing, but looked like such new technology not many people are biting yet. Seems bigger in Europe, maybe since parts are more readily available over there...? The "graphics card" style coolers seem to be a good idea but the copper heat pipes scare me a little. I guess if you incorporated a proper splash guard it wouldn't be a big deal I suppose. :strange:
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