drummereef's 180g in-wall build

[drummereef]

Here we go....


Another handy tool for the box are some spade bits. These make nice round holes typically larger than what your standard drill bits will cut. Here I'm making some starter holes so I can drop in the router. Always drill half way through the work and finish from the bottom up. This way you won't risk tearing out the bottom side.

Once the router was set, I used a straight edge to guide the router.

Voila! The first hole cut.

Notice the detail the flush trim bit can make. I followed the framework around with the router to make the cut.

 

[drummereef]

Here's the left side plumbing access.

And the right.

And when it's all done... the remains. Kind of sad. :lol:

 

[Bill14]

Those gaps you found with your level would have driven me nuts. However, if it were me fixing it, I would have had to rebuild the stand when I made it worse trying to fix it. :lol: Nice job!

That's the most detailed write up I've ever seen on using a router. But it's those kind of write ups that make these threads informative.

 

[gradth]

Looking good. Wish I had cut my access holes a bit bigger. Was a PITA trying to get those nuts tight.

 

[crvz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14670790#post14670790 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gradth
Looking good. Wish I had cut my access holes a bit bigger. Was a PITA trying to get those nuts tight.

agreed... I fear the day I ever need to do maintenance on my plumbing.

well done, drummereef!

 

[drummereef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14670752#post14670752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bill14
Those gaps you found with your level would have driven me nuts. However, if it were me fixing it, I would have had to rebuild the stand when I made it worse trying to fix it. :lol: Nice job!

That's the most detailed write up I've ever seen on using a router. But it's those kind of write ups that make these threads informative.

Takes three times as long to get it done when you're taking pics every other cut. :lol:

 

[drummereef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14670790#post14670790 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gradth
Looking good. Wish I had cut my access holes a bit bigger. Was a PITA trying to get those nuts tight.

Thanks gradth! I just hope I cut them in the right place.

 

[drummereef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14671290#post14671290 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
agreed... I fear the day I ever need to do maintenance on my plumbing.

well done, drummereef!

Thanks crvz.

 

[drummereef]

UPDATE:


Back at it today...


Part of the reason I started this thread was to help DIY'ers, like myself, with various reef related projects. And, I also wanted to try my hand at some projects I've never tackled.

That being said, I'd never laminated before. So... earlier this week I picked up some Formica Laminate sheet to laminate the top of the tank stand and header above the stand. This turned out to be quite the stinky project. I urge anyone who uses contact cement, or any solvent based product, to please follow the manufacturer's instructions and turn off all gas appliances including the pilot lights. This is of utmost importance as the adhesive vapor could ignite in the presence of an open flame. :smokin:

With that little disclaimer aside let's proceed.


I chose a Formica product that was readily available at the orange box called micro-dot in a black finish.

I measured the pieces and added an inch or so to each dimension for overhang. There are a variety of ways of cutting laminate but I chose a utility knife since it was late at night and noise was a concern.

I taped off the cutting area to minimize chipping.

Then I snapped a chalk line.

Carefully tracing the chalk line with the utility knife, I made multiple passes. Probably a dozen or so passes with a firm grip to avoid blade slippage. Once I felt the blade was almost through the laminate I was able to easily snap it along the cut line.

Then I let the laminate acclimate approximately 72 hours per recommendation by the manufacturer.

 

[drummereef]

Now that the laminate had properly acclimated, I was able to proceed with gluing it up.


Here's a short list of tools I used.

I chose to use Dap Weldwood Contact Cement to glue up the laminate. Again, this stuff is REALLY stinky. I urge you to follow the manufacture's instructions and turn off all gas appliances. This includes your furnace, water heater, gas logs, and all pilot lights.

Here we go! I used a foam roller to apply two coats of contact cement to each surface to be glued. Let each coat dry approx 15-20 minutes between coats.

When ready, the surface will look glossy. There will be a slight tack to each surface but should not "leg" when touched.

 

[drummereef]

This is where it gets a little scary. When using contact cement you get ONE shot. Once both glued sides touch it's permanent. Using some spare scraps of wood as spacers I carefully placed the laminate on the stand and lined it up with my guide marks. One by one I started removing the wood strips. Using firm pressure, I pressed the laminate against the plywood top.

Once all the wood strips were removed I was ready to roll the surface. This is a laminate j-roller. They are readily available at the home center. Again using firm pressure I just rolled and rolled until I felt the two surfaces were completely bonded.

And there you have it!

 

[drummereef]

Next was to do a little trimming. The tool I used for this job was a RotoZip. It's handy for a variety of jobs from drywall to tile cutting, etc... It made a decent laminate trimmer for this job.

Using the same flush cutting bit from an earlier project, I cut around the profile of the top. After gluing and trimming all edges I used a standard carpenters file to clean up any burrs and ease the edge.

Detail of the plumbing access cut-outs...

 

[drummereef]

Voila! Finished surface.

Corner detail.

Detail of header above stand.

 

[drummereef]

I'll finish trimming around the rough opening and by next weekend the tank will be in place! Finally, woohoo!!!

 

[crvz]

Wow, well done. Thanks for sharing all the details. I assume there's about zero worry in the texture of the laminate regarding tank support?

 

[drummereef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14709050#post14709050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
Wow, well done. Thanks for sharing all the details. I assume there's about zero worry in the texture of the laminate regarding tank support?

Thanks crvz. Yeah, I thought about that before I bought it, but the 'dots' are so small it's probably irrelevant. That first shot is a 'macro' shot of the laminate so they look huge. In reality the dots are about a the size of a pin hole and very shallow. I know the rim on my tank is about 7/8" wide where it will be sitting on. Just got to do three last pieces of trim in the rough opening and I can get the tank on there. I'll mess with the bottom shelf as I go, since I don't know the final dimension of the sump yet.

















page 4 is mine. :rollface:

 

[drummereef]

Here's an updated sump design. It has a smaller skimmer section and much larger return section. Approx volume of the drain/skimmer section is 15 gallons. Approx volume of the return section is 21 gallons at normal operating water level. Total volume of the sump is about 70 gallons. I will still add a bubble chamber for the return from the remote refugium. Still debating on how to do that.

What do you think about the 4" baffle at the bottom of the drain section? Do you think it would trap detritus before the skimmer? The sump will be constructed out of 3/8" acrylite acrylic. Do you think it needs a rim around the top?

 

[Eel-byte]

Cant wait to see this ting up and running!

 

[gradth]

Looking great drummer. Your making mine look like a redneck fish tank.

BTW, we talked about the Marcorocks. I got half my order today and the stuff is awesome. Not to mention 1/4 the price of live rock.

 

[drummereef]

Very nice indeed. I just saw it over in your thread. The rock looks amazing. Definitely what I will be putting in my reef. :thumbsup: