Elliott's Reef: 900g DT , 400g sumps

Hey Elliott,...another question about your 150gal quarantine tank if you don't mind. I see there are two overflows and some tank dividers,...I think you said that the tank is on its own separate system. My question is,...if you buy fish at different times and the first batch might been in quarantine for a month (looking ok) and then you add some new fish in the next section,...how are the first fish(ready to move to DT) protected from any virus the new fish might bring in with them? :confused: Thanks in advance,---Rick

Hi Rick,

There are two separate QT systems, each with a sump/skimmer:

150g total volume, with divided cubicles, above on wall
180g below

Regarding adding fish to QT, the clock starts from the last addition. So for example I have a fish in QT that has completed 15 of a 30 day quarantine, then another fish is added, the clock starts over, all fish coming out of QT must have completed the cycle
 
Oops,...one more. Do you pretreat new fish with anything prior to QT. If something does show up on a fish in QT...do you dose for a 150gal treatment? and what is your preferred drug for treatments?---Rick
 
Oops,...one more. Do you pretreat new fish with anything prior to QT. If something does show up on a fish in QT...do you dose for a 150gal treatment? and what is your preferred drug for treatments?---Rick

I run Chloroquine Phosphate continuously in both QTs, which effectively treats Ich and Velvet, it also inhibits algae growth which is a plus

So all fish are medicated regardless if they show disease or not. If a fish presented with a disease/condition not sensitive to CP, like flukes/bacteria/viruses etc. then I would treat that with dips and/or transfer to a separate QT that I have ready to go if needed

So, all fish are medicated and all SPS (QTed in trays) are dipped 3 times, 6 days apart, in Bayer advanced complete insect killer, diluted 1:6 tank water for 2-3 mins. AEFW eggs hatch every 5-6 days, so dipping 3 times 6 days apart covers those offspring

Thus far, this method has worked well for me :)

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Hey Elliott,...another question... I want to add some more sand to my tank. I have work hard to rid it of any and all pests. I see tank breakdowns on craigslist but I wouldn't know what might come with it. Should I get some bags from Dr. F&S or just some dry sand,...what would you do if you needed to add more for your tank? Maybe I'm over thinking, but the aiptasia battle seemed like it was never going to end. Thanks,---Rick
 
Hey Elliott,...another question... I want to add some more sand to my tank. I have work hard to rid it of any and all pests. I see tank breakdowns on craigslist but I wouldn't know what might come with it. Should I get some bags from Dr. F&S or just some dry sand,...what would you do if you needed to add more for your tank? Maybe I'm over thinking, but the aiptasia battle seemed like it was never going to end. Thanks,---Rick

not much can survive complete drying out, so I wouldn't worry about hitchhikers, including aiptasia

dry it out completely, then remove organics (phosphate) by stirring it in water and decanting the dirty surface water, repeat until clear

you can do a phosphate test when clear, and if high, run Lanthanum Chloride in a filter sock like you did with your live rock, stirring the sand periodically, to remove any residual phosphate remaining
 
Sorry to disagree. Not all sand is sand. It has to be aragonite sand, else you end up with high silicates and diatoms forever.

I don't know if you have ever rinsed a significant amount of used sand by hand before but it takes HOURS and tons of water. I know you have to rinse new aragonite sand too, but that is nothing compared to rinsing used sand from a reef tank.

If your time and/or the cost of water matters to you it is a lot easier to just start over with new aragonite sand IMHO.

Dave.M
 
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