Energy saving ideas for reef aquariums

One way to reduce power consumption in the house and aquarium, although not a direct solution, is to have a power budget. We have a set amount we set aside for power every quarter. If we come under that the remainder gets spent on the tank.

I am always looking at ways to reduce power now.
 
To reduce my electrical bill this year I added an exhaust fan in my sump room that vents directly outside..my ac goes on much less often and I don"t have a problem with humidity anymore
 
I too live in a hot climate but it surely is much dryer than Florida. I am lucky enough to vacation there and I know the condo we stay at has a humidistat in addition to the AC thermistat to regulate the humidity when not attended. I'm not sure how they work but you may look into that for the winter. I don't really have to worry about humidity here.

I'm renting but would seriously consider solar photovoltaics if you own. Don't know if you have tiered energy rates in FL like in CA but the more you consume above a baseline the higher rates per KW you pay here. Solar PV reduces your energy usage from the utility and starts cutting off the expensive top of your bill. So one way solar is very affordable if your last $100 of the E bill is at $0.37/KW! Plus now in our state there are Cash rebates, Federal Tax credits, and home value appreciation. Finally, a portion of your energy will be at a locked-in cost (of the system) and its pretty clear that energy costs will only continue to increase - especially for us that use above the baseline.

I use fans for evaporative cooling even though I have a Chiller. I run fans on my canopy and take the glass covers off in the summer. I'm only running 260W PC over a 50 gal. I plan to take out the submerged sump return and replace it with an external one. My chiller is under the tank in the stand but I have the exhaust directed out a hole in the side. Again, if I owned the place I would pipe it to the garage or outside. Instead of running powerheads inside the tank, possibly consider a externally pumped, closed loop with a SQWD or better an Oceans Motion Sqirt or 4 way. I agree with the above in having one larger pump that manifolds off to your auxillary needs (refugium, chiller, rx's, denitrator, etc)

Consider raising lighting higher so it may reduce heat transmitted. Consider venting your lights by using a fan or two and designing your canopy to be open somewhat to let the hot air up and out.

In addition to evaporative cooling, on really hot days 100F+ like tomorrow, I take those gel ice bags in a zip lock and stand in the return area of my sump - can you tell I don't like to run my chiller?

I've heard of people cutting out foam wall insulation, usually pink but I've seen it white and thicker lately, to match their tanks sides in case of power outage that usually happens in the winter when it can be cold. They put these up to help maintain the tanks temp stability a bit. But that may be only one problem if power goes out. Anyway, if your heater runs often in the winter, you may consider placing this foam on the non-viewing sides - however much of the heat lost will be through the top. I haven't done any thermal calcs to see if that would help enought to be worth it or better yet they eyesore it would cause.

I have an aquacontroller and wanted controllable vairable moonlight. So I was really happy when I discovered a string of blue 7W incandescent chrismas lights were only $3. So I strung up like 14 of them in my canopy. The first night they were on my tank rose up to chiller on temps pretty quickly. I took bulbs out to be only 7 and it made it through the spring. Now I'm down to 4 and they're still too hot so they are OFF for now. I have the option of buying a $100+ LED variable edition that works with the ACII but I think I'll just fork out some cash for some simple non variable LED's
 
Installing those small round sky lights over the tank would help a great deal with lighting costs. I have read threads where people have reef tanks with this light source only. As soon as I move into my new house I will be installing these lights to see how well they work. At the very least I should be able to cut down on the amount of electrical lighting over the tank.
 
Great Thread! As funny as it sounds, and for all the down sides you hear about pay back - in the hard core reefers case, alternative energy is actually a really feasible solution - do a Google search and you will come up with a ton of cost effective solutions, and also, depending on what state you are in, you can get mad tax credits.

Another thing is to run things like your dishwasher and washing machine/dryer late at night - off peak, these are usually cheaper rates and help distribute the load so no more CO2 polluting power stations need be built.
 
A few things I've thought about...

I may put a piece of insulating foam under my tank after I move it. That should keep the temp a little more stable.

Allow the tank temperature to swing a bit... sometimes people gasp when the temp goes more than a degree from 80, but mine does a slow daily swing between 78 at night and 82-83 during the day. For most livestock it shouldn't be a problem.

Plan your plumbing to avoid 90 turns, you'll save money with a smaller pump.

Keep the room temperature 75-80 degrees in the room with the tank. We have our AC set to 80, a fan over the tank keeps it at 80-82 during the day and it's not needed at night except during particularly hot days.

If you have supplemental lighting, you probably don't have to run MH's for the full photoperiod, just 4-6 hours in the middle.

If you have the resources and own a home, solartubes or a similar competing technology may be a good option. Essentially they're a skylight dome that catches light incoming from all directions, bounces it down a reflective duct and out into a room.

Non-reef related:

Check your fridge and freezer settings, turn them lower (when your milk starts going bad, they're too low :))

Use the smallest pots necessary when cooking, and the smallest amount of water if you're boiling it.

When cooking in a stove, I usually turn the oven off 5 minutes before the food is done and let the oven "coast" to the end.

Buy a kill-a-watt and track down where your energy usage really is coming from.
 
For those of you in need of a new refridgerator... if you're fridge is at least eight years old, the money saved in electricity(in less that 5 years) from a new fridge, will pay for it!!
 
Did I just say that in front of the ladies? Doh!

But seriously, sometimes we don't realize while trying not to spend more money, we are actually costing ourselves more!
 
Re: Thermostats for reefers

Re: Thermostats for reefers

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9787064#post9787064 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul79936
One of the issues I have had problems with as a large tank owner is humidity. This is especially a problem in winter and spring here in Florida because the air conditioner doesn't run enough to keep the humidity down.

The other thing you can do is get a vent fan for the room that the tank or equipment is in (basically whichever rooms have the biggest humidity problems). They have attic fans that are temperature and/or humidity sensitive. Basically, whenever one of those variables goes above a certain number, which you can set in the good ones, the fan kicks on and vents the attic. They can be set up in regular rooms as well. There are several solar models available now.

Dave
 
For what it's worth, I went to the hardware store and bought a few packs of the spiral compact fluorescent light bulbs for the rest of my house. I figured if I could afford the expense of a marine aquarium, I could afford the more expensive bulbs for the rest of the house to try and even out the electrical consumption. It's somewhere around a dozen bulbs throughout the house and on the exterior that are now running at a fraction of the original wattage. I'm not breaking even by any means after adding the aquarium to the equation, but it helps. I also purchased a couple sheets of 2' X 4' styrofoam insulation (3/4" thick) and lined the entire lower cabinet, including the floor, with this stuff. It also had a tremendous affect in noise reduction.
In my next home I'll be looking for a house with a southern exposure and some decent windows to supplement my lighting during the day. Just my .02
Drew
 
You aren't....by any chance...THE space cowboy are you? Anyway be weary of putting your tanks in front of windows. Algae LOVE that natural sunlight.
 
After setting up my reef tank I've been replacing incandescents like crazy around the house, the spiral type flourescents consume 14 watts compred to a 60 watt light bulb, considering around 300W of lighting on your tank it doesnt take much swapping out bulbs in rooms where lights are on constantly to offset and even reduce consumption around pre-tank values.

I installed an attic vent for the summer, I picked up a powered version with a thermostat and this alone has reduced the amount of time the air conditioner is on, it used to run almost constant on hot days, now it doesnt.

Have someone service your AC unit for the home, clean the grill!! even so little as blowing out the exchanger grills will help to improve efficiency of home AC, this goes same for chillers, a dusty chiller cant exchange heat as efficiently.

Take a good look at
Realgoods

These guys have been around for ages, and have some excellent products from simple small here and there items to full on off grid systems.

Using an UPS system on my tank has helped to condition power, AC electronics run better when the sine wave is balanced, without getting too technical having conditioned power increases lifespan of electronics, reduces extra energy consumption, and as an added bonus, will keep your tank from having problems in brownout / blackout situations. I use two 1000VA APC models on my tank. I test them monthly during one of my regular scheduled tank maintenance days and have had no problems with power at the tank. Some models are smart enough to tell you what your consumption is per outlet, you can then compare pump usage, etc.

I dont run a chiller, we like to keep the house cool and thus my heaters typically run more often, by changing my refugium lighting from flourescent and incandescent to Halogen I've actually been able to reduce heater use, and the macro grows like crazy, a 5 pack of 15 watt halogen disc's goes for around $30 at home depot. Mount these around your fuge for better performance.

I built a back panel to my stand to close off the huge hole, this keeps light from peeking into my display at night as well keeps the fuge a little more protected, I've noticed less evaporation and better temp control with this. Once again since the room is kept around 68 I havent had to use a chiller but this gives me a nice closed area where I can use small fans to cool at a later time if needed.

The window / skylight / sunlight peice I wish I could do, I have even thought about using mirrors. Nothing compares to the sun in ways of wattage and natural spectrum and it's just quite simply a brilliant idea. I wish more shops such as marinedepot and such would market items in this area, I'm certain there are tons of people out there who could use this as a viable solution and have no idea that it is!

One of the most interesting places where i think possibilities lie and where we as aquarists tend to be short anyhow is that of flow, not many of us (myself included) are exactly up on fluid dynamics. By properly placing the outputs of our closed loops, powerheads, etc. we can reduce the sizes and amount of pumps / powerheads used. As well as provide better flow... theres an interesting thought that might just require it's own thread... any fluid dynamics geniouses out there?
 
a great wa to keep prices down is plug your neccicarys like power head/ps and every thing else on a power strip and un plug the power strip at night because even because it if off it still uses 75 percent of the electricity as when it is on
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10567655#post10567655 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yellowlsayer13
a great wa to keep prices down is plug your neccicarys like power head/ps and every thing else on a power strip and un plug the power strip at night because even because it if off it still uses 75 percent of the electricity as when it is on

REALLY!!?!?

75 percent?

OUCH. I'm off to get some more power strips!
 
Buy a tank that can be run with a single 250W MH, a 36x24x23" is ideal for this. No wasted light.

Avoid closed loop at all cost, powerheads use 1/10 the electricity.

Don't run your house AC so low that the tank heater comes on.
 
To maximize energy savings, here are some lighting efficiency (lumens per watt) figures:
http://lightingresearch.org/programs/nlpip/lightingAnswers/HWCFL/HWCFL-efficacy.asp
Apparently, T5 lighting is close to the top in efficiency with 90 to 100 lumens per watt:
http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightingAnswers/lat5/pc1a.asp
An advantage of T5 lamps and metal halide lamps is that their small size allows parabolic reflectors to be used to maximize the light reaching the aquarium and minimize wasting light:
93304parabolic_reflector.GIF



Regarding insulating an aquarium, aren't acrylic tanks better at insulating than glass tanks?
 
Tunze or airstone skimmers

No basement sumps

No closed loops

T5 instead of MH

2 54W T5HO with individual reflectors instead of 260W of PC with bad reflectors(T5 might actually make more light).

Fans instead of Chiller

No need for 400W MH, support more efficient ballasts and bulbs

Choose tank sizes condusive to efficient lighting

Wrap the hot water heater in a blanket

Keep a heater in the aquarium, but set it way low so it will only turn on if something goes wrong.

Stream pumps instead of MJs

You don't need 150W of MH over your 5 gallon with a 1/10hp chiller.

Programmable thermostats

Unplug your TV at night or get a timer for it

Switch to compact fluorescents

Don't use halogen bulbs

Boil only as much water as you need

Turn down your water heater

Insulate your aquarium

Shorten your photo time

You don't need MH for your fuge.

Raise your AC temps

Turn down heat in the winter

Use fans instead of AC...

Bla bla bla right?
 
Using lower wattage lower K MH bulbs for the most energy saving lighting. Lighting gets real wastful at higher K.

Your tank heater is a big one, there may be savings with substrate heaters.
 
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