Enough Light For Crocea?
- Thread starter happyclam
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quicksilverq
New member
Your on the low end make sure they are higher up in the rock work under the lights I have 1300W on my 135 and had over 600 on a 75 when I had that. I think your pushing it for the size of that tank its very little but good luck croceas are very very light demanding clams if you can try something alts try a derasa
marc price
Active member
i think you would be better off with six 5' 80watt ho t5's/ind. reflectors. less heat, less tube replacement cost and more lux/lumens. if you diy it you can always add one or two more if needed but i doubt you'll need to.
marc price
Active member
...hard to say, doesn't seem like enough lux/lums to me however my croceas are under 4x54watt T5's/indv. reflectors in a 18"h aquarium. one is ~5" from the h20 surface and doing great. another is 10.5" down and has lost it's teal flecks but still has all of the metallic blue spots outlining the mantle. i cant get to the b threads to move it but it is growing and isn't bleaching. you may run into a similar situation, i don't know. how long have they been under the 4x24w t5's?
quicksilverq
New member
I like the idea of a 29 with more light and that would be better than the larger tank with more spread out (12x 39w too little for the size) . I think the clams would do better in the smaller tank but you need to make sure its a well cycled tank you dont want to kill your clams them suckers are not cheap!!! at least where i live in ohio they arnt.
marc price
Active member
consider this comparison of lumen output for various 4100k 82cri osram sylvania ho t5's:
24W=2000 lumens
39W=3500 lm
54W=5000 lm
80W=7000 lm
given the same distance from the surface the larger tank will have 6 39w over the area of the clam, it's only 6" wider than the 29g/ 4x24w. if you subtract 6" the clam is still under more lux/lum from 4x 39watt tubes. still better and best if it is under six 80w tubes across the width of the larger tank.
lumen=(Abbr. lm) Physics. The unit of luminous flux in the International System, equal to the amount of light given out through a solid angle by a source of one candela intensity radiating equally in all directions.
24W=2000 lumens
39W=3500 lm
54W=5000 lm
80W=7000 lm
given the same distance from the surface the larger tank will have 6 39w over the area of the clam, it's only 6" wider than the 29g/ 4x24w. if you subtract 6" the clam is still under more lux/lum from 4x 39watt tubes. still better and best if it is under six 80w tubes across the width of the larger tank.
lumen=(Abbr. lm) Physics. The unit of luminous flux in the International System, equal to the amount of light given out through a solid angle by a source of one candela intensity radiating equally in all directions.
quicksilverq
New member
he converted W-into lumens a different way of caculation like metric system does to U.S. measurments. but I still think the more area you have light spread out disapates and diffuses the light what you start out with is not what you end up with IE larger tank more area to light up with small tank more concentrated light and less depth. after so many feet light does not penatrate water I dont rember the caculations but somthing like ever 4 feet you have half of light you started with like I said dont rember the actual caculation. even at a foot deep that would be 25% less if that is true. And you state ments only ture in both cases if they were directly under the light in both tanks. In a larger 72" tank you have more room to work with and you might not have to put them right under the light or you may not be able to do to other things there or no room.
quicksilverq
New member
O yah forgot smaller tanks are cheaper. Belive me I wish I had a nice smaller thank mine is 2 big of a money pit. lol.
jadeguppy
New member
The diffusion of light matters with debth from the light.
I think mark was trying to point out that longer T5HO bulbs are better than shorter ones in regards to lumens, which is important to clams. You are better off putting one long bulb in than two short ones. (It will also save you money.)
I think mark was trying to point out that longer T5HO bulbs are better than shorter ones in regards to lumens, which is important to clams. You are better off putting one long bulb in than two short ones. (It will also save you money.)
No.
I know there are A LOT of success stories when it comes to Croceas and T5s. I would like to see pics, and not trying to start an argument at all. I want to see ANY Croceas that have been kept under T5s for more then 4 years where the color doesn't appear to be "washed out", blackish/gray, on the mantle and the neon-coloration hasn't shifted to one solid neon color.
Basically a Crocea that has been kept under T5s for over 4 years with more then 2 colors (white not being a color). If it has more then two colors, a shot of it's outcurrent siphon so I can see the gonads through the top and see if they are GLOWING orange/yellow.
The only reason I ask this is because I am completely set against Croceas being in the hobby at all and especially under anything besides halides. I have looked at WAY to many pieces of mantle tissue where the Zooxanthellae was overpopulated nearly to the point of competing for food; whether it be with the other Zooxanthellae or the clam itself for nitrogen and/or ammonium. I have been diving many times in areas where these clams come from and the variations between wild clams at a certain size and captive clams is TREMENDOUS, but that is mainly in the Crocea family.
I FULLY understand that there is a chance I am wrong about this and there are MANY photos of Croceas that were purchased at around 2 inches and have been kept for four years with nearly the same patterns as when purchased. I just have never seen any myself and would VERY MUCH like to see some. I mentioned in a few other posts about other clams’ ZTS systems â€"œ Croceas have one that is so restricted and complex, that it doesn’t appear to leave much room for the Zooxanthellae to dominate the clams mantle and absorb enough light. Which is the majority of the reason that most of the pics I have seen become “washed out†looking.
I know there are A LOT of success stories when it comes to Croceas and T5s. I would like to see pics, and not trying to start an argument at all. I want to see ANY Croceas that have been kept under T5s for more then 4 years where the color doesn't appear to be "washed out", blackish/gray, on the mantle and the neon-coloration hasn't shifted to one solid neon color.
Basically a Crocea that has been kept under T5s for over 4 years with more then 2 colors (white not being a color). If it has more then two colors, a shot of it's outcurrent siphon so I can see the gonads through the top and see if they are GLOWING orange/yellow.
The only reason I ask this is because I am completely set against Croceas being in the hobby at all and especially under anything besides halides. I have looked at WAY to many pieces of mantle tissue where the Zooxanthellae was overpopulated nearly to the point of competing for food; whether it be with the other Zooxanthellae or the clam itself for nitrogen and/or ammonium. I have been diving many times in areas where these clams come from and the variations between wild clams at a certain size and captive clams is TREMENDOUS, but that is mainly in the Crocea family.
I FULLY understand that there is a chance I am wrong about this and there are MANY photos of Croceas that were purchased at around 2 inches and have been kept for four years with nearly the same patterns as when purchased. I just have never seen any myself and would VERY MUCH like to see some. I mentioned in a few other posts about other clams’ ZTS systems â€"œ Croceas have one that is so restricted and complex, that it doesn’t appear to leave much room for the Zooxanthellae to dominate the clams mantle and absorb enough light. Which is the majority of the reason that most of the pics I have seen become “washed out†looking.
marc price
Active member
clamdigs,
that explains the loss of teal flecks on my crocea at mid-point position. have you (or anyone here), found dominant colors which seem to hold up better to t5's such as gold/brown vs. all one shade of metallic green on black vs. blue metallic spots or stripes on purple/brown?
i had decided to try crocea because i wanted a smaller slower growing clam than what i have with my now +11" ~4year old squamosa. reading of others supposedly doing well with croceas under t5's was encouraging. i wanted another clam not long after having to get rid of my fav. derasa (whose shell had a history to it), because it was taking up too much space and can outgrow the squamosa.
i've seen croceas sit at the lfs in shallow holding tanks under halides loose their luster and assuming you're correct you have me thinking i made a mistake buying them. i prob. should get rid of them before they dull down. for now i'm due for new tubes next month and am going to replace the 1 actinic with a uvl 75/25 and use 3 daylight's (currently using 2), for the greater output. i'll take periodic photos to follow how it goes, or more hopefully doesn't.
i rulled out maximas because they can grow about as large as a squamosa but interested to know how you feel about maximas long term under t5's and again is color a factor??
that explains the loss of teal flecks on my crocea at mid-point position. have you (or anyone here), found dominant colors which seem to hold up better to t5's such as gold/brown vs. all one shade of metallic green on black vs. blue metallic spots or stripes on purple/brown?
i had decided to try crocea because i wanted a smaller slower growing clam than what i have with my now +11" ~4year old squamosa. reading of others supposedly doing well with croceas under t5's was encouraging. i wanted another clam not long after having to get rid of my fav. derasa (whose shell had a history to it), because it was taking up too much space and can outgrow the squamosa.
i've seen croceas sit at the lfs in shallow holding tanks under halides loose their luster and assuming you're correct you have me thinking i made a mistake buying them. i prob. should get rid of them before they dull down. for now i'm due for new tubes next month and am going to replace the 1 actinic with a uvl 75/25 and use 3 daylight's (currently using 2), for the greater output. i'll take periodic photos to follow how it goes, or more hopefully doesn't.
i rulled out maximas because they can grow about as large as a squamosa but interested to know how you feel about maximas long term under t5's and again is color a factor??
The dominant colors are usually going to be blue and grayish/black - every now and then a bit of tan MIGHT be in there.
The literally THOUSANDS of Maximas I have had, they tend not to shift colors that often as in lose certain colors. They might however develop clear spots where a certain color once was, but the color is still there, or the color may get darker. But I have never, even larger ones, seen them turn to a solid color or noticed any sort negative outcome to using T5s (assuming they are at "proper output"/bright enough)
I still think that all clams would do better under halides.
The literally THOUSANDS of Maximas I have had, they tend not to shift colors that often as in lose certain colors. They might however develop clear spots where a certain color once was, but the color is still there, or the color may get darker. But I have never, even larger ones, seen them turn to a solid color or noticed any sort negative outcome to using T5s (assuming they are at "proper output"/bright enough)
I still think that all clams would do better under halides.
Last edited:
marc price
Active member
interesting, so glade i didn't get the gold/taupe teardrop crocea i liked. now i'm going to reflect sunlight at them (whenever i have the time to). one of these days i'd like to build a reflector to focus the sunlight at one point as the sun tracks across the sky. anyone know of such a product other than solar tubes?
btw if i get rid of the croceas and replace them with one maxima can you tell me which color(s) are more likely to darken or be replaced by a clear spot?
btw if i get rid of the croceas and replace them with one maxima can you tell me which color(s) are more likely to darken or be replaced by a clear spot?
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