E_Aquatics
New member
I will get more pictures of it tomorrow when I get a chance"¦
Eric's 300Gal Build!
- Thread starter E_Aquatics
- Start date
I will get more pictures of it tomorrow when I get a chance"¦
E_Aquatics
New member
I guess I could had used 1/2" for the bottom instead of 3/8" but too late for that now.
I will probably just get a manufacture tank and add baffles because going with a custom acrylic sump will be too costly.
whosurcaddie
New member
Just be a glass half full kind of guy. Be thankful this didn't happen when your system was up and running. Can't wait to see it full.
E_Aquatics
New member
That was my first thought.
E_Aquatics
New member
Here are the photos you requested. If you want to see something specific just let me know but its really simple. I used two pieces of 1/4" glass that run the entire length of the tank and then covered the front glass of the overflow with a sheet of 1/8" black acrylic to hide the bulkheads and pvc fittings. The bottom glass of the overflow I left it as is so that it doesn't create a shadow.
Sorry about the mess in the background but my garage is a mess with everything I got going on with this build.
E_Aquatics
New member
Yes! On my last tank the bottom of the interval overflow was black and I hated the showed it created. Btw your tank looks amazing, I was reading your build thread the other day and wow, very nice!!
E_Aquatics
New member
Thank you Brandon"¦ I hope to get this tank wet in about 2-3 weeks, hopefully sooner!
E_Aquatics
New member
This gone be good!lol
Subscribed and tagging along for future updates. Can't wait to see this thing running.
I can't wait either. Hopefully it'll be soon.
E_Aquatics
New member
At the start of this build I had planned on using 4x photon16 but after seing this tank in person I realised that 4x photon16 would not cut it. I've decided to settle on the OR Arctic T247. The only thing left for me to decide is whether to get 6 or 8 lights.
I did a quick diagram on sketchup of the tank with 6 and 8 lights that represent how to lights will be positioned.
The tank braces are made out of glass so no problem in placing the lights on top of the braces.
Feel free to comment and share your thoughts.
Or
I did a quick diagram on sketchup of the tank with 6 and 8 lights that represent how to lights will be positioned.
The tank braces are made out of glass so no problem in placing the lights on top of the braces.
Feel free to comment and share your thoughts.
Or
E_Aquatics
New member
Anyone?
tolder1525
New member
I'm interested in why you used the bottom 2x4 on the bottom of the stand on the flat side. I've built a few stands now (never for a 300 gal) and always thought that if you used them on the tall side of the 2x4 you should see less bowing.
This is the first time I've seen anyone laying them on the 4in side down and attached the upright post. Im sure its all good if your going on a concrete floor, but just wondering the thought pattern.
Im about to build a 125 stand, and interested in saving as much room as possible for the sump area and allowable over head room under the tank.
Thanks Ted
This is the first time I've seen anyone laying them on the 4in side down and attached the upright post. Im sure its all good if your going on a concrete floor, but just wondering the thought pattern.
Im about to build a 125 stand, and interested in saving as much room as possible for the sump area and allowable over head room under the tank.
Thanks Ted
E_Aquatics
New member
Before I started to build my stand I looked around (Here on RC) and came across a few stand builds that used this method. I decide to build my stand this way to give me a few more inches inside the stand. It isn't much but every inch of space I can gain is better for me. As for the wood bowing I don't see it happening. Its been in my garage for a month without any weight on top other than just the rest of the 2x4 frame and it is perfectly straight and level.
E_Aquatics
New member
Sump Update - 10/30/2014
I got my hands on a used 150g (72x24x20 Tall) which I'll be using as my sump. More info and pictures to come in a few days.
I got my hands on a used 150g (72x24x20 Tall) which I'll be using as my sump. More info and pictures to come in a few days.
E_Aquatics
New member
Would like to get everyones input on my sump design. The inside dimensions of the sump are 71"x23"x18" making it 127g tank not a 150 like I had thought. The tank as a 3/4" bottom and with the bottom and top trim the overall height is 20in but inside height is 18in.
Also the 3 bulkheads in the return section with be used as follow: 2x Jebao DC12000 as return pumps and 1x Jebao DC6000 to feed reactors and any other equipment I may add later on
Drain --> Filter Sock --> Skimmer --> Refugium --> Return
Skimmer Section: 12"x23"x12" (Overall length of this section is 20" including the Filter sock section since its still part of the skimmer section) - 24g
Fuge Section: 29"x23"x11" - 32g
Return 12"x23"x10 - 11g
Any better idea on how to do the sump? I wanted to incorporate my ATO into the sump but I would have to make the fuge smaller and I wanted the fuge to be as big as I could make it.
Also the 3 bulkheads in the return section with be used as follow: 2x Jebao DC12000 as return pumps and 1x Jebao DC6000 to feed reactors and any other equipment I may add later on
Drain --> Filter Sock --> Skimmer --> Refugium --> Return
Skimmer Section: 12"x23"x12" (Overall length of this section is 20" including the Filter sock section since its still part of the skimmer section) - 24g
Fuge Section: 29"x23"x11" - 32g
Return 12"x23"x10 - 11g
Any better idea on how to do the sump? I wanted to incorporate my ATO into the sump but I would have to make the fuge smaller and I wanted the fuge to be as big as I could make it.
Sonicboom
Addicted to salt
At the start of this build I had planned on using 4x photon16 but after seing this tank in person I realised that 4x photon16 would not cut it. I've decided to settle on the OR Arctic T247. The only thing left for me to decide is whether to get 6 or 8 lights.
I did a quick diagram on sketchup of the tank with 6 and 8 lights that represent how to lights will be positioned.
The tank braces are made out of glass so no problem in placing the lights on top of the braces.
Feel free to comment and share your thoughts.
Or
I think the 6 will be enough, depending on their spread, you can bring the end lights in an inch or two and still have coverage end to end.
Yellow Eyes
Member
This thread is awesome, tagging along! It is posts like this that make it so I cannot wait until I am out of college so I can do a build like this.
As for the sump, if you are up for it, do you have any room front to back after the sump sits in? You could fabricate an ro/di holding tank that runs the length of your sump, but thinner, which you can use to store ro/di top off water. So the dimension of this ato tank could be 71"x(4"-6")x18". I say 4-6 but it could be any amount that you want that would fit. (At 6" it would make your tank ~33 gallons). Just a thought.
Also i saw somewhere on here someones refugium section that is blacked out so that the light doesn't grow algae in the other compartments (and won't bleed a lot of light if runnning opposite tank lights). Didn't think of that when I built my current sump, but it is an awesome idea that I will incorporate in my future build for sure.
As for the sump, if you are up for it, do you have any room front to back after the sump sits in? You could fabricate an ro/di holding tank that runs the length of your sump, but thinner, which you can use to store ro/di top off water. So the dimension of this ato tank could be 71"x(4"-6")x18". I say 4-6 but it could be any amount that you want that would fit. (At 6" it would make your tank ~33 gallons). Just a thought.
Also i saw somewhere on here someones refugium section that is blacked out so that the light doesn't grow algae in the other compartments (and won't bleed a lot of light if runnning opposite tank lights). Didn't think of that when I built my current sump, but it is an awesome idea that I will incorporate in my future build for sure.
