ESHINE 48X3W 4G lighting fixture experience

-I the begining of my conversation with eshine they also told me that you can cluster the leds , like there growlights fixtures have , to have better mixing of colors and calmer shimmer (see radion , ai sol's) ?
If I'm gonna order me an additional fixture i would have them clustered and mix some UV / royalbleu and replace some whites also by uv's and reds .
I would place this fixture in the back of my lightrack litting only from back to half tank.

-One point of critizm , if i manuly dim the whites to 50 % with the sunrise controller the driver starts to buzz a bit ?

-This afternoon i''l post pictures of the new fixture over my nano at 50 % (=72 watts) versus my older 60 w at 100%
-Here you will see how the nano is lit by the new fixture , the light is more evenly dispersed and brighter lit (of course due to 12 w more)
this is because it uses 4 rows of 12 leds instead of only 2 rows of 10 leds

greetingzz tntneon :)
 
I am hoping that someone here may be able to give me some guidance. I have a 300 gallon 96x30x24 tall tank that is currently being lit with halides. I am considering replacing the halides with LEDs. These fixtures seem to be gaining some popularity and have been getting decent feedback.

My stock list would include SPS, LPS, and softies. I would like to keep clams on the sandbed eventually.

I am not really concerned with controllability other than being able to turn them off/on with a timer or, perhaps my Apex. I also do not care about dimmability (or do I????).

I prefer blue light to stark white. I run Radium 20,000k in my halides. I do have some VHOs that are available as supplemental lighting.

Any advice on how many fixtures it would tank to cover a 96x30x24 tank? Crees or Bridgelux? Do I really need to control the lights? Do I really need a dimmer?

Thanks in advance. Sorry to highjack OP's thread.
 
reeferstace said:
I am hoping that someone here may be able to give me some guidance. I have a 300 gallon 96x30x24 tall tank that is currently being lit with halides. I am considering replacing the halides with LEDs. These fixtures seem to be gaining some popularity and have been getting decent feedback.

My stock list would include SPS, LPS, and softies. I would like to keep clams on the sandbed eventually.

I am not really concerned with controllability other than being able to turn them off/on with a timer or, perhaps my Apex. I also do not care about dimmability (or do I????).

I prefer blue light to stark white. I run Radium 20,000k in my halides. I do have some VHOs that are available as supplemental lighting.

Any advice on how many fixtures it would tank to cover a 96x30x24 tank? Crees or Bridgelux? Do I really need to control the lights? Do I really need a dimmer?

Thanks in advance. Sorry to highjack OP's thread.
Click to expand...

IMO, there's no need for a controller if you don't want one. The 4g series of lights would probably be best for you, since you want some control in led color ratio. I don't know whether apex can be used with these lights, but at the very least a timer will turn these lights on and off. The only thing i might think about is the fact that if these units are run without a controller/dimmer, you won't be able to control intensity, and if you can move the lights up and down, you might want to have some shaded areas in the tank for the lower light corals. The choice between cree/bridgelux comes down to a couple of things:

Bridgelux: more colors, cheaper
Cree: higher efficiency and penetration, the top of the line

As i mentioned before, if you choose not to use a dimmer/controller you have to consider how much light penetration you are expecting from CREE vs bridgelux. If it were me in your situation i'd see if i could get the largest 4g system with a dimmer, and customize the LED's the way I wanted. I would also contact eshine and ask them what their opinion would be, and rank your priorities and see which system satisfies them the most. Good luck!
 
Thanks for the write up.. I just ordered 48x3w cree. 28Blue and 20White. with 60 degree optics and 90 degree optics on the outer leds with the controller. Hope it covers my new 36x24x20 tank well.. If not I have the e-shine 3g 20x3w cree on hand.
 
reelfishy said:
Thanks for the write up.. I just ordered 48x3w cree. 28Blue and 20White. with 60 degree optics and 90 degree optics on the outer leds with the controller. Hope it covers my new 36x24x20 tank well.. If not I have the e-shine 3g 20x3w cree on hand.
Click to expand...

I too just placed my order for two 48X3W CREE with controllers about 4 days ago. I will have 24 white, 20 blue and 4 red in each. With a controller I can adjust the intensity of the two groups of light so the mix of white to blue is not that critical as I can always dim or brighten individual group as needed.

BTW, what is the typical turn around time from ordering to receiving your light?
 
I received mine in less than a week 6 days as I recall. It took 3 days to get to my house after they shipped it and I believe 3 days to build it.
 
expect probably around a week or a lil more on initial order, and another week for any replacement or issues that they need to fix for you.
 
Nice Simon, Just fyi i asked Robin about that void if broken seal, and he said that it was ok and he wouldn't void my warranty if i opened it, but it was because i had to replace my glass. You could probably shoot them an e-mail to check if you could crack that seal. Good luck!
 
yh1185, Eshine is sending me a replacement controller and I don't have to return the defective one even though it still works except the "+" button.

They also sent me some pictures of CREE vs Bridgelux PCB. They look entirely different. The actual CREE leds are much smaller than Bridgelux and I could tell through the glass panel that they are indeed CREE leds without opening the case.

Here are the pictures:

CREE PCB
CREEPCB.jpg


Bridgelux PCB
Bridgelux.jpg


Bridgelux
Bridgelux-white.jpg
 
I just posted this in my build thread but I also want to share with you here.

I know a lot of people worry about customer service, after sale support, and product warranty in buying products from China or oversea. I am going to show you it should not always be a concern if you do your research and buy from a company with a good record of after sale support.

In my post on 3/27/12 when I received my Eshine lights that one of the controllers has a defective "+" button. I emailed Eshine on that very day and was told almost immediately by return email that a replacement controller would be shipped to me at no cost. Also there was no need to ship back the "defective" one. Today, 4/2/12, 5 days after my request, DHL delivered a new controller and everything worked as expected. This level of after sale support is not always seen even among domestic companies.

The pro about all these is: I have an extra controller that still works despite a defective programming button.:bounce1:
 
lol that's awesome, especially since the "-" button does the exact same thing except opposite, but since all the numbers cycle from 0-9 and vice versa it doesn't really matter. at most it saves you 9 clicks :-P I'd buy another 48X3w and sell that combo to someone local :D haha
 
yh1185 said:
lol that's awesome, especially since the "-" button does the exact same thing except opposite, but since all the numbers cycle from 0-9 and vice versa it doesn't really matter. at most it saves you 9 clicks :-P I'd buy another 48X3w and sell that combo to someone local :D haha
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same but ... I don't think Eshine will just sell you a fixture without the controller for a lower price as they never break down the product separately into light and controller. In other words, they will still charge you $385 for the light without controller:(
 
they don't break it down, but they do sell a 48X3w fixture without the controller, and it's like 150+ cheaper. Only issue is that you'd have to find the cables yourself. You might be able to get them to give you the cables, but doubt they would. Also, you'd have to pay the dreaded shipping fee again :-P
 
The 48x3W without the controller has two power cords, one for white and one for blue that you plug directly to the electrical outlets. The light with the controller has one cable between the light and the controller and a power cord between the controller and the electrical outlet. Ordering a light without controller will not work with the controller as the power management in each is quite different.

Now if they have a light that works with an external dimmer that will be a different story:). Unfortunately they don't.:(
 
Very interesting...I guess i got an older model then you did...My unit has 2 cords from the light to the controller and 1 from controller to electrical outlet.
 
I think this picture shows the cabling of my model of 48x3W. One power cord to controller and one cable from controller to light.

003-7.jpg
 
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