ETSS Skimmer Club!

I have an evolution 500 on my 150 sps that for the last 6 months has been pulling the nastiest dark green crud. In the last 2 weeks, it can barely create a head of foam that spills over the cup. It's powered by an Iwaki 20 rlt (per Gary's recommendation). I have started dripping kalk in conjunction with topoff. Could kalkwasser be hindering skimmate production? My tank actually looks just as clean and clear as before. I doubt it has nothing to skim, as I have 14 fish that are fed 5 cubes a day. Confused. Please help.
 
Is the skimmer clean (meaning the chambers and neck leading into the cup), and the bio-balls clean and untangled?
 
Would a sump buddy 40 work well on a 35 gallon system? I'm looking for ways to save some space in the sump and I really like the footprint of these. I am planning on running it with a mag 18 hooked to a manifold also running a closed loop and a media reactor. The tank is a 25, with a 20T sump . . . any thoughts?

~Will.
 
Still having some issues creating a consistent foam tower in my Evolution 500. The tank is over 6 months old now, but I've noticed I am simply not creating the dark, foul, froth that I have been up until now. Do skimmers reach an equilibrium where the tank simply doesn't have as much to skim? I've also noticed that ETSS recommends 4 more bioballs than this skimmer came with brand new. After speaking with Gary at AETech he told me those instructions were old and that I would be fine. Should I order more bioballs and include the "recommended" amounts? Do more bioballs in the tower create more foam?

Please, downdraft gurus....help!!
 
Still having some issues creating a consistent foam tower in my Evolution 500. The tank is over 6 months old now, but I've noticed I am simply not creating the dark, foul, froth that I have been up until now. Do skimmers reach an equilibrium where the tank simply doesn't have as much to skim? I've also noticed that ETSS recommends 4 more bioballs than this skimmer came with brand new. After speaking with Gary at AETech he told me those instructions were old and that I would be fine. Should I order more bioballs and include the "recommended" amounts? Do more bioballs in the tower create more foam?

Please, downdraft gurus....help!!

These skimmers do have the ability to virtually skim the tank to the point that they stop working until proteins or food is added.

more balls would make wetter foam,less would be dryer .

Its a good idea to replace the balls if they are old,new balls always make the skimmer kick a$$ once broken in.,make sure the pump is not restricted or the drain on the collection cup.If you are using a mag pump,switching to a pressure rated iwalki or blue line will help greatly.the mag pumps seem to weaken after time on these slimmers.
 
Thanks rigleautomotive. Do you think I would need new bioballs after only 6 months? I also should have stated that the pump is an Iwaki RLT, as recommended. Also, does Kalkwasser hurt this skimmer from operating properly?
 
Thanks rigleautomotive. Do you think I would need new bioballs after only 6 months? I also should have stated that the pump is an Iwaki RLT, as recommended. Also, does Kalkwasser hurt this skimmer from operating properly?


Yes the kalk kills the performance after time.the balls get coated with kalk and so does the inside of the pump and skimmer.give it all a vinegar bath for 4 hours and replace the balls,it will skim like crazy again.
 
ETSS 1400 with an Iwaki 70

ETSS 1400 with an Iwaki 70

I just bought another ETSS 1400. I use a Panworld 250ps (similar to Iwaki 100rlt) on my other exact skimmer and it works very well. I only have an Iwaki 70rlt to use.

Q: Is there a recipe for making this skimmer work with the 70rlt temporarily until I can get my hands on a 100rlt?

Removing bioballs is my first choice, but then how many removed until I reduce the impact of this skimmer? What's the right number per tower?

40 per tower for 100 Iwaki is the spec from Gary.
30 per tower for 70 Iwaki?

Thanks for any help or opinion.

Tom
 
Use as many as it takes to reach no closer than 6" from the top of the tower (quoted from Gary at AETech)

An iwaki 70 works fine on the 1400. A 100 is the mac daddy though!
 
Use as many as it takes to reach no closer than 6" from the top of the tower (quoted from Gary at AETech)

An iwaki 70 works fine on the 1400. A 100 is the mac daddy though!

LOL, yeah I agree on the pump. O.k., 6" perfect! I have a standard starting point.

Thanks a lot!
Tom
 
Really 6" from the top? is that on all models? I usually put as many as I can in there and I've always had very good luck with these skimmers.
 
When I spoke with Gary, I was specific on the model 1400. He is a great guy, you should give him a call to ask about your model.
 
I have an ETSS750 on my 180g. The tank is going thru cycling. I have a blueline 40 hdx hooked up for the pump. I am trying to get it dialed in so I can see some skimmate in the the collector. I have about 4-5" of water in the sump. Is the pump not strong enuf? I have the pump just to the side of the sump on the floor. Running 1" clear vinyl tubingto and fro. I have a ETSS 500 in my sump for my 55g which works like a champ. Whats my problem?
 
I'm upgrading to a larger tank/etss skimmer and will be parting with my etss evolution 500, complete with Iwaki 20rlt.

Will be available in 2 weeks. Skimmer and pump are 5 months old. Looking for $300 for whole package. PM if interested.
 
Won't matter now. It showed up smashed. One tower completely broken at the base and the top flange busted in half and ripped off both towers. I am bummed. Hoping we can do something with usps since we insured it. Not sure how hard that's going to be. I took pics as soon as I opened it up.

Anybody know if Weld on could tackle this much damage?
P1010008-1-1.jpg



LOL, yeah I agree on the pump. O.k., 6" perfect! I have a standard starting point.

Thanks a lot!
Tom
 
You could try to use Weldon. Just sand down the edges so they are flat again. Use #3 for to connect the pieces, then take #16 to go aou d the edges like you would if you were using silicone. #16 is thicker so it will close any small leaks. #3 is stronger.

You should practice with scrap before you try to weld the skimmer. It is kind of like building it over again.
 
You could try to use Weldon. Just sand down the edges so they are flat again. Use #3 for to connect the pieces, then take #16 to go aou d the edges like you would if you were using silicone. #16 is thicker so it will close any small leaks. #3 is stronger.

You should practice with scrap before you try to weld the skimmer. It is kind of like building it over again.

Thanks for the help. I'll see if they have it at HD.
 
I would check Ace, that is the only hardware store I've found it at. Also buy a bunch of extra needles just in case, you don't want to be in the middle of a repair and realize your only needle needs to be replaced.
 
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