A magnifica that deflates frequently is a dead anemone. Consider isolate him and treat him with antibiotic. Other than that, he will be gone in a week or so.Just want to know what you should/can do for deflates. Any experience?
A magnifica that deflates frequently is a dead anemone. Consider isolate him and treat him with antibiotic. Other than that, he will be gone in a week or so.
I don't have my mag yet, just wanted to know what my options are. What antibiotic should be used?
A magnifica that deflates frequently is a dead anemone. Consider isolate him and treat him with antibiotic. Other than that, he will be gone in a week or so.
That's not necessarily true. They can pull through the deflate/inflate cycle problem. I've done it. IMHO/E, having a large water volume and/or massive water changes seems to help. I believe they crash in an attempt to rid themselves of some offensive substance. Maybe zooxanthellae, infectious microbes, or just nasty water left over from shipping bags??????
The anemone in this thread survived the cycling problem. It later passed away in a power outage, but it made it through the initial inflate/deflate cycle. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1368942&highlight=magnifica
Interesting... So I've been reading that if a mag consistently deflates at a certain time you should adjust your lights to turn off about then. What does this accomplish? Is it do to the fact that the nem needs to adjust?
The zooxanthellae inside the anemone produces oxidants during photosynthesis. If the light is to bright, or on for to long, the oxidants can rise to damaging levels. If you see an old red car in a junk yard, the paint will look faded and dull. If you run your finger across the car, the paint will come off on your finger. This is because the paint is falling apart, or oxidizing. The same thing can happen to the cellular tissue inside an anemone when the oxidants clime to high. Reducing the PAR and/or photo period will reduce the amount of photosynthesis, and the production of oxidants. When I see a new anemone crashing at the same time, late in the day, I set the lights to go off thirty minutes to an hour prior to the normal crash time. Then slowly adjust the lighting schedule accordingly.
This certainly seems to be the case. As was mentioned in my other post, I am dealing with this and the following has been the result of my changes.
After the first couple of days, the Nem would deflate each day at around 4PM and stay that way until around 10pm/midnight at which point it would go back to normal until 4PM the next day. Same process each day.
After having recieved the above advice, I started by reducing the photoperiod some, and then decided to lower the light level in general. Using the AI lights, I decreased intensity on each channel about 12%. The next day, he still deflated some at 4PM, but was back open nicely by 8PM this time. As such, I backed off on the photoperiod again some on the front and back end with the white and blue LED's. I will see what the result is tomorrow.
I assume I will quickly get to a point where he is open consistently. Once there, I will let him settle in, and then slowly ramp up intensity/photoperiod.
I will keep all posted.
I don't have dimmable lights but I'm looking forward to seeing the outcome on this. I plan to keep my actinics on a normal schedule, is this a bad idea? For those of you with mags what do they do at night, do they ball up or stay fully inflated. I would think that if they don't ball up is that signaling that they are looking for light.
I don't have dimmable lights but I'm looking forward to seeing the outcome on this. I plan to keep my actinics on a normal schedule, is this a bad idea? For those of you with mags what do they do at night, do they ball up or stay fully inflated. I would think that if they don't ball up is that signaling that they are looking for light.
psusocr: Is your whole tank run on LEDs or is that just supplemental? The reason I ask is because I just built my own LED light for my tank and I'm wondering how anemones would fair under it in comparison to MHs