Eye Popping Out!! Pics

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7264538#post7264538 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leebca
If the condition is in fact an ocular nerve infection by bacteria or fungus (the true Popeye), then you need a medication that will go inside the fish.

For bacteria, the best such antibiotic is Maracyn Two for Saltwater fish. It penetrates into the fish from the water. But it has to be used in double the recommended initial dose.
 
Maracyn Two for Saltwater fishes is available at many local fish stores, some pet store chains (e.g., PetSmart), or online.

Directions will come with it. But if you're attempting to treat an internal infection causing Popeye, you want to start the treatment with twice the recommended initial dose and regular doses after that.

:rollface:
 
leebca Does it look like pop eye to you? In the 3rd pic If you look at the top of the fish it looks like a peice of sand. Is that Ich, could that have something to do with it?
 
I don't think I'm seeing signs of Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans). That is, if the picture is focused properly. That white looks more like a 'smudge' of injury and/or infection.

I see a very ragged fish. Fins broken and split. The white ring around the eye gives the impression that the fish's eye is protruding, but when I compare it to the fish's other eye, it doesn't look that far extended.

I'd say the fish is having stress problems either from a water quality issue, or nutritional issue, or a combo of them. It seems to be having bacterial issues which would be likely secondary from either or both of these sources.

The fish could use an antibiotic treatment and better water quality and perhaps a boost from foods laced with vitamin and fat supplements. I would also immediately add beta glucan to its feed.

For foods/feeding I'd use the following guidelines:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=785228

I'd like to see all test kit/water quality results. This includes the chemistries and conditions (like temp, sp. gr., pH). I'd like to know:
What you've been feeding. How often?
How long you had this fish.
What is your source water?
How do you top-off the tank water?
All other fishes and marine life you have in the aquarium.
Anything you've added, removed, changed in the last 8 weeks with regards to livestock AND equipment AND processes.

For now, perform a large (80%) water change. Use RO/DI source water or DI water only to mix the salt. Match pH, salinity, and temperature of the water you're exchanging. I would get some antibiotic (the previously mentioned Maracyn Two for Saltwater fish is good), and set up a QT to use as a hospital tank for this fish.
 
I have the Maracyn-Two. When I set up the QT should I put any rocks or sand in it or just water.
Im going to test the water now.
 
P.H. 8.0
Nitrates 15
Nitrite 0
Amonia 0.25
Alk. Very Low
Water Temp is 76
SG is 0.25

I've been feeding Formula one flakes Twice a day and about once a month alternating between Frozen Marine Cuisine and Frozen Brine Shrip at one of the feedings.

I've had the CB for about 6 months.

Water Source is a Typhoon III RO DI TDS reading of 18
Im going to order new filters tonight.

For water top off I fill a rubbermaid container with about 1 1/2-2 gallons of water about every 2 weeks and top off with that as needed.

Current fish are
1 Bi Color angel
1 Blue Damsel
2 Stiped Damsel's
1 Clown
1 Cardinal
1 Choc. chip Star
3 crabs
2 Turbo snails
2 Conch's

For changes in the last 8 weeks. About 2 weeks ago I added a Lawnmower blenny. ( he was very skinny at the fish store because it was a new tank with no alage) thought I could save him. On the second day the star fish had him. Dont know if he died first or what happend.

Other than that everythings been good. The Nitrates are a little high but that wouldnt have caused it would it???? Thanks again for your help!!!
 
Your QT should be setup as described here:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.htm
You'll get most of your ? answered in that article.

In general you can put things in the QT but only if they don't interact or interfere with medications. Like for hyposalinity treatment, you can put in many different things. For a copper treatment, you don't want to put in any carbonate things, but you can still put in plastic/resin decorations and even silica sand (but not aragonite or carbonate based substrates).

Your tank should show no signs of ammonia. Is that a true reading? Small quantities of ammonia will have a long-term bad affect on many fishes. A large ammonia reading can have an immediate bad effect on fishes.

Fish don't care too much about alkalinity, but they do care about pH. A steady pH of about 8.2 is your best target. If you ever change pH it should be done about 0.05 pH units per day, maximum. A sudden, even small, change in pH is not good for fish.

Other than this, things seem fine. Those nitrate levels aren't a worry to your fish. If the crabs you have are hermit crabs, you might consider getting them out.

I can't be online again until Friday, FYI.

:rollface:
 
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