Fallow question

Dmorty217

Dmorty217

Saltwater Addict
I have some marine bio ball ceramics, chaeto, rubble some and sponge that has sat since for sure Christmas in my sump, not running, no heater. We will say the water has sat below 78 degrees since January 1st, (hasn't had a heater and I moved out of the house the tank sat in until Tuesday of this week) Let me add I would assume that the water sat in the 50 degree range somewhere? Thermostat at the house has been set to 55. It has been 99 days today if you count from Jan 1. Is the media ect ich free?
 
I believe at those lower temperatures the tomonts can become dormant and hibernate. Once the water becomes warmer they will then pop and release theronts
 
More specifically I was looking for how long it can go dormant. Seems from the link that 4-5 months if the temp hits the mid to low 50s. I knew this wasn't going to be as straight forward as I hoped
 
Dmorty217 said:
More specifically I was looking for how long it can go dormant. Seems from the link that 4-5 months if the temp hits the mid to low 50s. I knew this wasn't going to be as straight forward as I hoped
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I'd err on the side of caution and let it cycle the full 9 to 10 weeks. Just going through an outbreak of ich myself it's not worth the rush IMO
 
killagoby said:
I'd err on the side of caution and let it cycle the full 9 to 10 weeks. Just going through an outbreak of ich myself it's not worth the rush IMO
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Yeah at this point what I have will sit in a brute trash can for the better part of the next 2.5-3 months. It's not worth the risk, that's for sure
 
So this is an interesting thread. I figured with no fish there was no worry about ich, but according to the information here, even with no fish, if the temp drops low enough ich can go dormant and survive without fish for much longer/indefinitely?
 
Temperatures for optimal growth of most strains of Cryptocaryon appear to be about 73.4–86°F (Dickerson 2006; Yoshinaga 2001), although active infections at 59°F have been documented (Diggles and Lester 1996). Encysted stages, off the host (tomonts), were also observed to survive for 2–4 weeks under experimental hypoxic conditions (24% oxygen saturation); these released free-swimming infective stages (theronts) 10–11 days after excystment (Yoshinaga 2001).

A more recent study demonstrated that two life stages of one strain of Cryptocaryon (trophonts, i.e. the feeding stage during which the parasite can be found on the fish, and tomonts) survived dormant for 4–5 months at 53.6°F, and, after the water temperature increased to 80.6°F, developed and infected fish (Dan et al. 2009).
 
snorvich said:
A more recent study demonstrated that two life stages of one strain of Cryptocaryon (trophonts, i.e. the feeding stage during which the parasite can be found on the fish, and tomonts) survived dormant for 4"“5 months at 53.6°F, and, after the water temperature increased to 80.6°F, developed and infected fish (Dan et al. 2009).
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since there is somewhat limited info on this study my question is, I'm assuming the sump the stuff came out of was in the 50's (was cold to the touch) but I didn't check them temp and certainly didn't check everyday if the temp got to or below 53.6. There have been about a weeks worth of temps in the high 60s low 70s around here. So the question is if the temp was higher than 53.6 will that cause the cysts to rupture and start the cycle over? Also the 80 degree mark was mentioned in the study. My DT at its warmest is 74, not thinking that is going to matter much. Would love to have access to a lab to do some studies on what I currently have to see if in fact ich is still present.
 
Dmorty217 said:
since there is somewhat limited info on this study my question is, I'm assuming the sump the stuff came out of was in the 50's (was cold to the touch) but I didn't check them temp and certainly didn't check everyday if the temp got to or below 53.6. There have been about a weeks worth of temps in the high 60s low 70s around here. So the question is if the temp was higher than 53.6 will that cause the cysts to rupture and start the cycle over? Also the 80 degree mark was mentioned in the study. My DT at its warmest is 74, not thinking that is going to matter much. Would love to have access to a lab to do some studies on what I currently have to see if in fact ich is still present.
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It comes down to your tolerance for risk.
 
Fallow period and hope it is dead vs bleach everything and start over... If it were mine I would bleach it and start over.. Assuming there are no critters in the system..
 
JamesHolt said:
Fallow period and hope it is dead vs bleach everything and start over... If it were mine I would bleach it and start over.. Assuming there are no critters in the system..
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The tank the stuff came out of has been sold. The tank it will go in just got salt put back in yesterday after a month of freshwater. (before that i nuked the tank with 2000g worth of formalin, tank is a 625g for a week then took everything out for 2 weeks and it has been freshwater for the past 3 weeks until yesterday) I am confident that my DT is disease free but the stuff that came out of the 220g sump I'm pretty certain isn't. Lost 3K in 2 fish a month ago so Im not risking anything from here on. Seems everything coming out of online retailers lately have been either ich infested or have flukes
 
Dmorty217 said:
The tank the stuff came out of has been sold. The tank it will go in just got salt put back in yesterday after a month of freshwater. (before that i nuked the tank with 2000g worth of formalin, tank is a 625g for a week then took everything out for 2 weeks and it has been freshwater for the past 3 weeks until yesterday) I am confident that my DT is disease free but the stuff that came out of the 220g sump I'm pretty certain isn't. Lost 3K in 2 fish a month ago so Im not risking anything from here on. Seems everything coming out of online retailers lately have been either ich infested or have flukes
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Which retailer? I've got to make a purchase in a couple of months
 
JamesHolt said:
Are the tank and sump hooked together?
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The sump I'm referring to was connected to the 220g I sold and has been empty since before Christmas. The sump had 6" of water in it from then until last Tuesday. What I was thinking about putting the media into is the 210g sump that's hooked to my 625g. Which I'm not using the media on
 
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