FarmerTy 215-gal No Water Change SPS Tank

I hear you about the cost, I just changed 8 - 80W bulbs over the DT and 6 - 39W bulbs over the frag tank. $$$

There is no doubt that led's work though, the proof is right here in this thread!!
 
I hear you about the cost, I just changed 8 - 80W bulbs over the DT and 6 - 39W bulbs over the frag tank. $$$

There is no doubt that led's work though, the proof is right here in this thread!!
Thanks acesq! Yeah, I'm looking at 16 bulbs yearly if I go full T5. Ouch! I could almost buy 2 OR fixtures a year at that price!
 
Pro Corals Rainbow
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JG Yellow
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Skittles Granulosa
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That skittles granulosa is my new favorite of yours. Good to see your build thread on here also.


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That skittles granulosa is my new favorite of yours. Good to see your build thread on here also.


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Hey bud and thanks! It took awhile for that thing to reach potential but its looking good these days.
 
do you run a uv steralizer?

if so, why do you run one in a mostly SPS tank?
Hey Cody,

I run one 24/7 for purposes of maintaining lower ich population levels. I think of it as my backup if there ever is an ich outbreak since I run a higher population of fish then most.

Me personally, I don't run one for any direct benefit to the corals, just concerned with water-borne parasites.
 
No problem at all. I don't think I explained it a ton up to this point.

Its a pretty simple approach honestly, nothing spectacular.

We do water changes for 2 reasons in my opinion, replacement and dilution. We aim to replace missing elements and dilute nutrients (as well as dilute potentially harmful elements/chemicals that can build up over time). The question I asked 6 years ago was, if I am able to replace the important elements and reduce nutrients via media/reactors, are water changes even necessary anymore?

The backbone of the system is the calcium reactor, it supplies my foundation elements, Ca, Alk, and Mg. It also supplies strontium and potassium and could possibly supply other trace elements that I am not aware of as it literally is melting old acro skeletons. For my system, it has been adequately supplying my system with the foundation elements needed for acro growth up to this point for the last 3 years now.

For nutrient control, I employ a skimmer and reactors to handle the high nitrate and high phosphate output of my tank. I have a decent fish population but just as important, I feed a ton to the fish which in turn feeds my corals as well. I have two auto feeders that feed my tank 5x/day a various assortment of pellets. On top of that, I also feed a generous amount of frozen 2x/day that consists of mysis, bloodworms, cappeleni eggs, clams, krill, and some type of pre-made frozen like LRS or Rods. I'm a firm believer in high input, high output. Feed a ton, then efficiently remove the nutrients. A healthy reef system to me is well fed but also carefully managed to control the resulting nutrient levels.

So back to the reactors, I use biopellets to keep my nitrate levels around 5-10ppm. I use GFO to keep my phosphates below 0.05 ppm. I use a large skimmer (rated double the capacity of the system) to remove organics in the first place before they breakdown into nitrates and phosphates to minimize the amount of biopellets and GFO needed. I passively run activated carbon in a bag in a high flow area of the sump.

That's it! Feed heavy, export heavy (leaving 5-10 ppm nitrates), and run a Calcium reactor. Other than monthly media changes of GFO and carbon, and biannual media topoff of CaRX media and biopellets, the system runs itself and the best part... No water changes! [emoji4]

Amazing tank......With no water changes!!!!!!


Glenn also has a mature and very beautiful reef but he is testing , many elements except the basic ones...... Did you ever made a Triton test? What about iodine, zinc, Mn, cu ,Fe and other minor and trace elements, that aren't existing in carx material? Don't you dose any of them?
 
Yes, I've read about the Dutch Synthetic Method that Glenn created. It is a wonderful tank and a wonderful system he runs.

I don't feel the need to test all of those additional elements and keep them in line mainly because I haven't needed to. At this point, unless I notice issues in the tank, I won't plan on doing anything about any deficiencies in the water. I only know of deficiencies via my annual Triton test but I don't take the results as true values, more ball park from the Triton test. But a zero value is easy to interpret. [emoji4]
 
Here is my latest Triton results from 3 months ago roughly.

You can see there are several elements that are zero that are potentially important but I haven't noticed any issues so I don't dose any of them yet.

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Amazing tank......With no water changes!!!!!!


Glenn also has a mature and very beautiful reef but he is testing , many elements except the basic ones...... Did you ever made a Triton test? What about iodine, zinc, Mn, cu ,Fe and other minor and trace elements, that aren't existing in carx material? Don't you dose any of them?

Ty, your tank really is amazing. Gets better and better.
It's interesting that you feed so much dry pelleted food. Most dry foods on the market contain one of or all of the following Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu, as preservatives.
I've never used dry foods but I am considering adding pellets to my feeding regime for this reason..
Ty, which biopellets do you use and how much? In what type of reactor and how often are you replacing or replenishing them? Sorry if I asked this exact question in the past..
Your methods certainly are producing amazing results.
 
Thanks bud!

I feed a ton of pellets... Small-medium pellets 3x/day and large pellets 2x/day. I even added the new PE Mysis pellets to the mix.

As far as biopellets, I run Ecobak plus, about 1-1.5 cups, keeps my nitrates around 5ppm usually.
 
Yes, I've read about the Dutch Synthetic Method that Glenn created. It is a wonderful tank and a wonderful system he runs.

I don't feel the need to test all of those additional elements and keep them in line mainly because I haven't needed to. At this point, unless I notice issues in the tank, I won't plan on doing anything about any deficiencies in the water. I only know of deficiencies via my annual Triton test but I don't take the results as true values, more ball park from the Triton test. But a zero value is easy to interpret. [emoji4]
What media do you use in your carx and you have such high K? Any idea of the source of Li?
 
Ty, your tank really is amazing. Gets better and better.
It's interesting that you feed so much dry pelleted food. Most dry foods on the market contain one of or all of the following Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu, as preservatives.
I've never used dry foods but I am considering adding pellets to my feeding regime for this reason..
Ty, which biopellets do you use and how much? In what type of reactor and how often are you replacing or replenishing them? Sorry if I asked this exact question in the past..
Your methods certainly are producing amazing results.
Matt if I combine the amazing results of Ty , with just carx and no water changes, bigE , with basic two part and 10% only weekly water change, which is small enough proportion to maintain stable value for element that is readily consumed, GlennF with no water changes and no trace adding and monitoring and Farm ,which add trace in huge amounts to see results in colours, commenting that the usually small trace additions we make, are not doing anything, since they are became rapidly inactive in usual nutrient concentrations, in our reef tanks.........what conclusion I make is, that adding Zn, mn, fe, cu, I, etc is just snake oil!?[emoji32]
 
I just re-read all and let me ask you if you don't have algae issues? Or cyano? Long time ago I saw some red algae spots , not sure if was cyano, but at zero values you don't have problems. ( I have it that the reason of my question).

Do you add bacteria?

Thanks, great tank


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