Filtration for Hospital Tank
- Thread starter carb850
- Start date
stevebeaver
New member
use lots of light. the more light the better. IMO
WVfishguy
New member
Uhh, Jimbo - for marine animals, no filter, no life.
Unless you mean no mechanical or chemical filtration.
That's all crap anyway.
For a hospital tank, set it up with live rock, skimmer and everything else a regular tank needs. Then hang on a 25 - 100 watt UV sterilizer. That does away with the need for chemicals, which generally do more harm than good.
I stopped using chemicals years ago. For fresh and salt.
A strong UV sterilizer kills pathogens. Chemicals and antibiotics kill the pathogens AND the livestock.
I can't believe I'm the only one out there preaching this message. Since I'm not all that smart, it must be because I don't make a profit from selling chemicals and antibiotics.
HOWEVER: Sometimes, antibiotics must be used IF you are certain of the pathogen affecting your livestock. But for prophylactic, (I.E. a quarantine tank) a UV is the best choice. If you use a bare-bottom hospital tank, you’d better do daily water changes, and watch water parameters closely.
BTW- If you don’t use a quarantine tank, you’re going to kill a lot of livestock - needlessly.
Unless you mean no mechanical or chemical filtration.
That's all crap anyway.
For a hospital tank, set it up with live rock, skimmer and everything else a regular tank needs. Then hang on a 25 - 100 watt UV sterilizer. That does away with the need for chemicals, which generally do more harm than good.
I stopped using chemicals years ago. For fresh and salt.
A strong UV sterilizer kills pathogens. Chemicals and antibiotics kill the pathogens AND the livestock.
I can't believe I'm the only one out there preaching this message. Since I'm not all that smart, it must be because I don't make a profit from selling chemicals and antibiotics.
HOWEVER: Sometimes, antibiotics must be used IF you are certain of the pathogen affecting your livestock. But for prophylactic, (I.E. a quarantine tank) a UV is the best choice. If you use a bare-bottom hospital tank, you’d better do daily water changes, and watch water parameters closely.
BTW- If you don’t use a quarantine tank, you’re going to kill a lot of livestock - needlessly.
firefish2020
New member
Ahh coral HP tank that's a bit different then, you need plenty of filtration and a bit of flow. What kind of anemone and what does it look like (conditions)?
carb850
New member
Supposed to be a Bubble Tip, but I couldn't tell it. I would rate the condition pretty bad only because I couldn't even see tentacles. About big around as a 50 cent piece, and its 'top' is seems to be smaller than its foot. For the moment I saw it the extension was no more than 1/4".
odoprelude
New member
yowsa, you need to get that to someplace with a lot of light and good water quality... Ron might be able to help..
coralreefer
No Pistons
I agree 100%
Since it's so bleached it may hide from the light but needs as much as you can possibly provide. Excellent water quality and moderate flow. COVER your power head intakes. It can and will move around to find it's "happy place".
Right now most if not all of it's energy is going to come from food, assuming it's still sticky enough to eat. Do not attempt to force feed it btw. Feed frequently ie. daily small easily digestible high protein food like mysis. I'd be tempted to mix some cyclop-eeze into the mysis.
If it starts to comeback add some minced silversides or krill to it's diet.
firefish2020
New member
I agree feed it no matter what type it may be, the cyclop-eeze should stimulate it enough to try to eat. Cover PH as mentioned and very gently target feed it with a turkey baster. Also is the mouth extended or gaping and if so by how much? Did it attach itself quickly or did it take a long time for it to attach? (blow around for a few minutes)
WVfishguy
New member
I'm confused most of the time.
I had no idea the "patient" would be an anemone. Changes everything.
Might be a good idea to put it in a "good" place in the main tank - good, but not overpowering water flow, good food (sorry, but I can't recommend cyclopese for anything) and good lighting.
Better would be to put it in a brightly-lit refugium. Just don't let it get away from you.
I'll bet newly hatched (less than 2 hours old) brine shrimp squirted into the critter from a baster will help.
I had no idea the "patient" would be an anemone. Changes everything.
Might be a good idea to put it in a "good" place in the main tank - good, but not overpowering water flow, good food (sorry, but I can't recommend cyclopese for anything) and good lighting.
Better would be to put it in a brightly-lit refugium. Just don't let it get away from you.
I'll bet newly hatched (less than 2 hours old) brine shrimp squirted into the critter from a baster will help.
firefish2020
New member
I saw the pic, this is not a bubble tip anemone and is not in poor health at all. It's just the way they come 
firefish2020
New member
no I didn't see anything else? I'm not sure what those anemone are, I think they came into the area from a shipment of LR and rubble that Fuji got last spring. I know only that they hate high water flow and seem to love high light (halide). Mine did poorly until I moved them to the corner under the 150 pendant. I feed that tank mysis and cyclop-eeze if that helps any. I hope you can get him to turn around they are neat little guys.
