Finally, 92 Gallon Corner Tank Build (Pic Heavy)

[Bernie21]

You guys are seriously making me reconsider my lighting, I think, Im going to buy a 250w MH retro kit & sell this on, either way my reflector is too big. I am also goind to use both overflow holes as drains & have the return come around out back, When I get to that point, I'll post pics. As far as the dementions of the sump, Im going to get them tomorrow, I have them at work! I like the idea though of 250w MH if it's not going to affect my temp.

 

[Bernie21]

Husky, Flfireman, I have a question, if I go w the 250w MH, is there a difference between, the Single Ended bulbs & the double ended bulbs & is there a preference between those HQI & regular bulbs?

 

[flfireman1]

I have a double ended 250 bulb running on a icecap ballast. I was told that the double ended bulbs generate less heat. But Ive had people tell me otherwise. I just liked the smaller size of the double ended bulbs to fit better inside the small canopy.

I can show you how I run my fans, with the help of Emilio I used 4 computer fans that I bought at Tigerdirect. You will then need a power unit (since they are computer fans) and a jumper.

My tank runs so cool I have to keep a heater in the sump and even with that I have a hard time keeping my temp over 78 degrees. Although it does run pretty consistent. Lower 77 at night and higher 77 during the day. Rarely does the temp go over 78.

 

[Husky_1]

I also went with DE, but after seeing how the Reeflux 12k SE look, i almost wish I went with SE. When I was doing my research people were saying that DE gets better, more predictable spread because of the way the socket has to sit in the reflectors, but I am not sure. BTW, not sure about the last part of your question but HQI=DE, Mogul=SE.

Oh, and I use 2 4inch Zaltman fans, and have them stepped down to 9v. They are kind of cool because they mount with a rubber piece so they do not transfer any vibration. I stepped them down to 9v with one of those DC bricks that you can change the voltage.

 

[Bernie21]

Here are the measurements of my sump, peice by peice:

This was big enough to hold my skimmer & small enough to fit insid my stand. It has the capacity to hold a total volume of 28 gallons, but the water level will probably be at around 12 -13 gallons!!

 

[Husky_1]

Thanks!

 

[chem-e]

I really like what you did with the tank. My last tank was a 92 gal and unfortunately, I had to downsize. The new paint job with the custom sump looks great and I wish I had the skills to do something like that.

I also used an Octopus skimmer, but I used a Mag 9.5 for the return pump (and I wished I used something smaller) and T5 lighting for my mixed reef. As for lighting, it's a tough tank to light, but with T5s and the MH, I think you should have a good amount of lighting.

 

[Bernie21]

Chem-E thanks for the compliments, I'm concerned that the mag 18 might not be enough for return flow, but I can always tone it back if need be!!
I spoke to Aquacave, where I bought my lights a couple months ago, I spoke to the manager and they agreed to give me store credit for the lights, so I'll be ordering 250W HQI. They were very nice and helpful!!
I really havent done much work on the tank since, but I'll be getting to this weekend, I went to Home Depot & purchased most of the materials that I need to finish!! I'll make sure to take plenty of pictures to post!!

 

[Bernie21]

Here are a few updates on my tank, I have already mailed out out the 175w lights & I should be getting the 250 HQIs with in a week!
Since my last post I have added a switch board to control all the electrical in the tank:

Next I began working on the plumbing, I decided to use both holes in the overflow & have the return come from the back. I wanted to make the draining as quiet as possible so the 3/4 hole is draining directly from the bulk head with a ball valve controling the water level from under the tank.

The 1" drain hole will be draining from a home made Dureso pipe, this also helps reduce the noise level and controls the draining.

 

[Bernie21]

Both drains drain directly to the sump, the 1" bulk head will also have a ball valve so I have the ability to shut it incase of any emergency! In these pictures I havent added the ball valve to the 1" drain.

Here are a few pictures of me drilling the canopy for the return from the back.

 

[Bernie21]

We (Mike & I) then glued our pipes together:

Then we conected it to the canopy:

The return is being split into 2 3/4" pvc pipes from the 1" return pipe, as to mot lose to much pressure.

I decided to use flex pvc for the return because again, I didnt want to lose pressure by putting more than the one elbow I need in the canopy. So the water flow goes straight from the pump (Mag 18) to the canopy, I have a ball valve and a union valve on the return. The ball valve is to shut down the water incase of a back syphon. Also for the same reason I have a union valve. If I need to remove the canopy I can release the pipe from the bottom of the tank by the PVC. Just close the Ball valve to hold any water & release the union valve, this was I dont have to mess with the pump and I know I wont be able to access the back of the tank where the return meets the canopy.

 

[Bernie21]

Sorry I forgot the picture w the 1" flex PVC.

Here is a picture of the skimmer put together w the 2 drains & the returns:

I havent added the union valve or the ball valve yet on the return, I also havent added the ball valve to 1" drain, I will probably do that tomorrow.

 

[REDDAWG43]

Looks good, so when does the water go in?

 

[Bernie21]

Thanks Mel, Hopefully by next weeks end!!!

 

[ebording]

looks great man!

 

[TimberTDI]

So what do you have to do to be able to get into the tank once it's up and running?

The way you plumbed the return, it looks as if you want be able to take the hood off.

 

[Bernie21]

"looks great man!" -ebording

Thank you!!

"So what do you have to do to be able to get into the tank once it's up and running?

The way you plumbed the return, it looks as if you want be able to take the hood off." -TimberTDI

The canopy has a top that can lift up so that I can get into the tank, however if I need to remove the canopy, I can jusy turn off the pump, close the ball valve, open the union valve & remove the canopy. its alil troublesome, but not too bad.

 

[Bernie21]

Today I had a little time to do some more work on the tank; first thing I did was add the union & ball valve to the return.

Now I can remove the return from the bottom & still be able to remove the canopy!

Next I decided to add the fans to the canopy & the loc lines to the return.
I am going to use 4 fans, 2 blowing cooler air in & 2 sucking out the warm air from the top. Because I have not yet rcvd my light set I can not do the top fans until after just to be on the safe side. So I just installed the 2 side fans the blow cooler air in.

These are the fans Im going to use for all 4, the seem to be quiet and powerful enough. Only $5 at tiger direct.

THe I bought a mouse pad, marked in the shape of the fans & cut them up, they are going to be used between the fans and the canopy to reduce the vibrations & therefore reducing noice.

 

[Bernie21]

The water design of the mouse pad was just a coincidence, but quite humerous though.

Next I began marking and drilling the holes for the fans on the canopy.

Next I simpy attached the fans.

 

[Bernie21]

The next thing I did was attach the loc lines & glue the PVC in the canopy. To hold the PVC up at the ends, I used a staple gun & zip ties to hold it up. Then I teflon tape the loc lines in to the PVC.

I decided that I would have 3 exits on my return. The straight shot from the return has 2 exits since it has more water coming from that side. The side of the return in the canopy that the water has to bend only has one exit, since I figure it would less pressure because of the bend.

This is what my canopy looked like after todays little additions.

Hopefully I can have everything done by the weekend, hopefully!!