Fish dying, help

EugeneReef

New member
Hi all,

Kind of a hail mary post here as something is wrong with my tank and I have no idea what it is. First off I do not have a QT or HT which I know is bad, bad, bad. I know your first instinct here is going to be to tell me "well this is your own fault for not running a QT" but my LFS quarantines all fish for 2 weeks before selling so I feel (felt) pretty safe in purchasing from them, as safe as I can be without a QT anyway. The reason I don't have a QT or HT is the same as most I suppose, no room, and because I have the reputable local fish store to rely on. Anyway, enough of me and my no QT excuses. Here's the issue (I think I need to give you a full history for this to make any sense):

Timeline:

Early March: Purchased a new 60g marineland tank (basically a taller 55g) after having been out of the hobby for 15 years.

2nd week March: Add 50lbs lace rock, 30 lbs cured live rock from LFS, and either 20 lbs of fine sand (not live sand, I can't recall amount but it was one bag).

Towards end of March: After repeated tests for nitrate / ammonia, all reading 0 (I did not test during first week of adding live rock), I start adding livestock. First additions were a pair of occellaris clownfish, some scarlet reef hermits, 10 Astrea snails.

Early April: Throughout the month, continued stocking the tank. Added a 5" Melanurus wrasse, 3.5" flame angel, 2 emerald crabs, few more scarlet hermits (total of 6 in the tank), a banded serpent star I never see (he could still be in there), and 5 trochus snails. Additionally, began adding corals: Toadstool leather, florescent green mushrooms. In addition to those corals I have GSPs that came on the live rock.

2nd week of April: I decide to start testing for tank params beyond PH, ammonia, nitrate, and salinity. I order magnesium, calcium, KH test kits. Results were 380 calcium, 1100 mg, and 8.3 kh. I was not happy with these results of course so I purchased SeaChem products to begin dosing. For calcium, I began dosing Reef Complete. For KH, I started Reef Builder. For MG, I began Reef Advantage Magnesium. I dosed KH on Mondays and Thursdays, and Calcium / MG on Tuesdays and Fridays. Initial results seemed good; two of my hermits molted shortly after I dosed calcium for the first time.

End of 1st week of May: Per the SeaChem product instructions, I waited two weeks before testing CA KH and MG again. Results were 450 CA, 8.9 KH, and 1250 MG. Here's where I made a mistake. I felt like my KH needed to be around 10 at least based on something I had read (I know now this is not correct). Additionally, I felt like I was dosing well within safety limits of the KH additive and could increase it a bit. So during this week, I increased the dosage of the KG additive by 1/3rd (was dosing for about 80g instead of 60g). I also upped the frequency of the MG additive (began dosing on Tuesday, Weds, and Friday) to try to get it towards 1350 faster.

During the first weekend of May I also purchased a Lawnmower Blenny. I do not scrape the back glass of my aquarium, so as to encourage coraline growth and to provide a source of food to my snails. By this time I had a fair amount of hair algae on the back glass especially towards the top. The Blenny immediately began eating the hair algae after being added to the tank, and for the next several days.

2nd week of May: Here's where things went bad.

After testing KH and and Mag again, I got 9.6 kh, and 1350 mg. Which is fine, but maybe I raised it too fast?

My flame angel died on or around the 9th. I noticed him hugging the sand more than usual for a couple of days, then one morning he had a huge, distended stomach, and died shortly thereafter. (Google tells me "dropsy"). I chalked this up to the unpredictability of keeping flame angels. In hindsight maybe it was the large does of KH. Or maybe the Lawnmower Blenny was a disease vector because ...

A couple of days after that, the Lawnmower Blenny stopped eating and was dead by the next morning. No outward signs of disease. (this was on or around the 12th).

Yesterday I noticed one of my clownfish pair had a ragged looking slime coat (the runt of the pair). The closest I could find to how he looked on Google was Brooklynella, though there was not that much mucus, and he was not scratching himself, and was not gasping for air at the surface. By morning, he had died.

One more thing to add, I only just recently learned that brine shrimp are not an ideal food. The only thing that the flame angel and smaller clown were willing to take as food had been Prime Reef Flakes, spirulina enriched brine shrimp, and omega-3 brine shrimp. I could not get them to take Mysis or Reef Frenzy. Even when the smaller clown did eat, he was a very timid eater. He was also a very small fish (only about 1.25") and did not grow much (if any) during the two months or so I had him.

One more thing to add, after the flame angel died, and I foolishly chalked it up to the tempermental nature of flame angels, I went out and bought two more fish, a canary blenny and a royal gramma (not wanting to take another chance on a dwarf angel). So now I have two more fish in this tank where everything is dying. They were added 3 days ago and seem OK so far.

So now I have left: One Occellaris clown, one canary blenny, one very small royal gramma (about 1.25"), and a 5" melanurus wrasse. All of which seem in good health.

I have tested PH multiple times, it seems my morning PH is right around 8.0 which I've read is fine. It has not changed during this crisis.

I have tested ammonia and nitrates many times during this. Ammonia reads either 0 or 0.25, hard to tell from the gradient. Nitrates are always 0.

My thoughts are:

1. Disease introduced by Lawnmower Blenny. After he was added is when things started dying. However he never showed any signs of disease, and the symptoms between the three dead fish are not consistent?

2. Contamination in the tank. I did use nail polish remover on the tank side last week trying to remove adhesive from a Jebao web controller. I really do not think any got in the tank though and I am just being paranoid. Also the inverts and corals are all totally fine, wouldn't they succumb first if it were copper or some other chemical?

3. I killed my weaker fish with an overdose of KH and/or Magnesium (especially the poor Blenny, who was just added). In hindsight I should have only been dosing reef complete and *maybe* dosed a little magnesium.

Solutions:

???

I have thought about doing a series of water changes but a) if it's a disease, that won't help b) a larger water change at this point will almost certainly drop the KH, further shocking the fish if that was the issue in the first place

Anyway if you've made it all the way through this long post I thank you for reading. Is there some obvious cause here I may have missed? Did I just overdo it on the dosing? Are my fish all going to drop dead of disease? I wish it were something simple like an ammonia spike, something with a simple solution
 
The slime coat falling off of the smaller clown is not a good sign and makes me think something contaminated your water. In events like this, when things start going south for no apparent reason, the first thing I've always recommended people do is to start doing partial water changes. Water is everything to fish and if the fish look fine then chances are it's an issue with the water. You also should be QTing your fish no matter what the local fish store does. To not do so is asking for trouble...all it takes is one thing to come in to destroy a setup.
 
The slime coat falling off of the smaller clown is not a good sign and makes me think something contaminated your water. In events like this, when things start going south for no apparent reason, the first thing I've always recommended people do is to start doing partial water changes. Water is everything to fish and if the fish look fine then chances are it's an issue with the water. You also should be QTing your fish no matter what the local fish store does. To not do so is asking for trouble...all it takes is one thing to come in to destroy a setup.

Thanks. I will do a 10g water change. I probably can't get it all mixed and at the right temp tonight so this will likely happen tomorrow. I had decided to put off my first water change until I saw nitrates but perhaps this was a mistake. I understand some (most?) do them as part of regular maintenance.
 
Thanks. I will do a 10g water change. I probably can't get it all mixed and at the right temp tonight so this will likely happen tomorrow. I had decided to put off my first water change until I saw nitrates but perhaps this was a mistake. I understand some (most?) do them as part of regular maintenance.

You need to mix your water and then aerate (with a power head or air stone) and heat it for at least (in my opinion) 24 hours before using it for a water change.

From IO's website and I use this method for any brand of salt mix:

Q: What is the proper way to mix salt water?

A: Always add the salt mix to the water, not the other way around. Adding water to the salt mix briefly creates a highly concentrated solution that can lead to precipitation of some ingredients.
Always allow newly mixed salt water to circulate with a powerhead or airstone at least overnight before use. This allows the carbon dioxide in the aquarium water to reach equilibrium with the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, which normalizes pH. It also adds oxygen.
 
I am not convinced you killed anything with your dosing, but I wonder why you are spending so much on dosing. Most salts will provide all you need for a mixed reef assuming your doing a 10-15% water change weekly. IMO I would stop dosing, do two 25% water changes a day apart and then weekly at 10-15. Then measure at weeks end, if your close to the ranges, dose nothing.....it sounds more like a diease is in your DT.....you sure you don't have Ick.....it's the most common and can result in death, not eating, even before you see the spots.
 
I would not worry about the difference in temp.
I doubt this change would drop DT more than 2 degrees, don't make it hard on yourself.

The best tanks come from frequent, water changes, it's the life of the tank.
Leave the fancy stuff (dosing) until you have tons of LPS and SPS....

Just water, RODI, with TDS 0 water and any marine salt mix.

If you want a good one which requires less dosing, RED SEA PRO, mixes high up on the ranges....

Add nothing else until you can determine what is causing deaths...
 
I am not convinced you killed anything with your dosing, but I wonder why you are spending so much on dosing. Most salts will provide all you need for a mixed reef assuming your doing a 10-15% water change weekly. IMO I would stop dosing, do two 25% water changes a day apart and then weekly at 10-15. Then measure at weeks end, if your close to the ranges, dose nothing.....it sounds more like a diease is in your DT.....you sure you don't have Ick.....it's the most common and can result in death, not eating, even before you see the spots.

I have seen it said both ways: either water changes will provide you with all the trace elements you need, or they won't. I have also seen where people advocate against large water changes like 25% because they are likely to be more disruptive than helpful (in my case though, where things are dying, yeah it can't hurt). I'm not saying you are wrong, I am just saying that especially as someone who is still learning things, it's quite confusing that you can find a proponent of almost any position on these issues. I had decided that it didn't make sense to do water changes because I hadn't seen any nitrates, so I would dose instead. Since that didn't work out well I'll try doing water changes.

The reasons I don't think I have ich are: a) none of the fish that died were itching themselves b) they were all eating normally until about 24 hrs before expiring c) I have not seen any white spots on any of the fish. That doesn't mean it isn't ich, but doesn't seem to suggest it either
 
I would not worry about the difference in temp.
I doubt this change would drop DT more than 2 degrees, don't make it hard on yourself.

The best tanks come from frequent, water changes, it's the life of the tank.
Leave the fancy stuff (dosing) until you have tons of LPS and SPS....

Just water, RODI, with TDS 0 water and any marine salt mix.

If you want a good one which requires less dosing, RED SEA PRO, mixes high up on the ranges....

Add nothing else until you can determine what is causing deaths...

I'm with you on all of this. I use distilled water because I don't want to have to mess with an RODI. (I have a < 1000 sq foot house, not a lot of room to set things up like a RODI barrel). That reminds me, I really ought to get a TDS meter. but distilled water "should" be 0 TDS.

I certainly won't add anyting else for at least a couple of months, and that's assuming nothing else dies ...
 
Two weeks of quarantine is not sufficient.

My very reputable and well known LFS says the same thing, but I have been there on Fridays when the new ship arrive and they are temp acclimated and put in the sale tanks.
 
Slow down.

Too much too soon. There was nothing wrong with your first readings that needed dosing. Stability is more important then perfect numbers. Gradual tiny changes, and let the tank mature. Lawnmower blennys dont always eat hair algae (mine didn't) and rely on algae in a mature tank to survive. I doubt you had enough in a month and a half to two months to keep it alive without supplement feeding nori or some kind of other seaweed like product for it to live. They don't always learn to eat fed food from what I know of them.

You are falling victim to what everyone (Including me!) probably did at one point or other. You need to just hit the snooze button on changes beyond regular maintenance and small routine water changes.

Best of luck
 
Two weeks of quarantine is not sufficient.

My very reputable and well known LFS says the same thing, but I have been there on Fridays when the new ship arrive and they are temp acclimated and put in the sale tanks.

This. Plus even with a proper qt regime, a LFS where there are multiple tanks in close proximity to each other, it is not going to work. Aquatic pathogens can move between tanks by getting aerosolized.

OPs issue is most likely brooks (or maybe flukes) since it is rapidly killing. Other disease generally have longer "first symptom to death" period.
 
Update: two more fish died with the exact same symptoms and progression (damage to slime coat, then dead within 24 hrs). I googled some more pictures and am now convinced my tank has Brooklynella. My two most healthy fish, the female clown and Melanurus wrasse, so far seem to be fending it off, but I hear they are probably still carriers even if they are asymptomatic. I will either need to see if I can set up QT for these two (the wrasse may be hard since he's probably too big to live in a 10g for 8 weeks) or see if the LFS will take them back and treat them. Unless they die of course (no that I want that). Either way I need to leave the display tank fishless for a good 8 week period.

THIS EXPERIENCE HAS CONVINCED ME TO RUN A QT. So something was accomplished at least.

I am also going to change 10g of water since I have it mixed and ready, since it will probably be good for the corals and inverts even if it has nothing to do with the brook problem.

I really appreciate the help and advice.
 
An interesting detail, I happen to know that the Melanurus wrasse I have came from someone else's tank. I wonder if it was the sole survivor of a Brook outbreak and is the fish that brought it to my tank (a kind of typhoid mary situation). He was added about four weeks ago so, the timeline isn't exactly right, but you have to wonder why the owner would have given up this one fish to the LFS. Maybe all his other fish died of Brook ...
 
Adding too many fish too early can overwhelm the tank's ability to process waste. That's one. If the alkalinity drops below 7.9, it can affect fish slime coats and expose them to infection. Those are 2 things. But your alk was actually higher than 9, Keep it around 8.3 to 9. The worst problem: Every new fish addition exposes everybody to whatever came in. My advice for your situation, accepting you can't qt, is simply to give your tank a lot of time with only inverts so it can build up processing strength, then get all your fish at once, cross your fingers, and hope the tank can handle the sudden load. Feed sparingly at first. And if somebody came in with a parasite or an infection, it'll be a problem. But running a risk for new fish after new fish is a route to trouble.
 
Adding too many fish too early can overwhelm the tank's ability to process waste. That's one. If the alkalinity drops below 7.9, it can affect fish slime coats and expose them to infection. Those are 2 things. But your alk was actually higher than 9, Keep it around 8.3 to 9. The worst problem: Every new fish addition exposes everybody to whatever came in. My advice for your situation, accepting you can't qt, is simply to give your tank a lot of time with only inverts so it can build up processing strength, then get all your fish at once, cross your fingers, and hope the tank can handle the sudden load. Feed sparingly at first. And if somebody came in with a parasite or an infection, it'll be a problem. But running a risk for new fish after new fish is a route to trouble.

I'll be running a QT in the future (this experience has convinced me).
 
If the alkalinity drops below 7.9, it can affect fish slime coats and expose them to infection.

Are you sure about that? Because natural sea water has an alk around 6.7 to 7 dKH. I cant imagine optimum alk for healthy slime coat would be a lot higher than natural sea water levels.
 
Follow up question, if I move my asymptomatic fish to a QT and treat with cupramine, and do not return them to the display tank for 8 weeks, will this ensure that they are no longer carriers?
 
Follow up question, if I move my asymptomatic fish to a QT and treat with cupramine, and do not return them to the display tank for 8 weeks, will this ensure that they are no longer carriers?

Depending on what is the disease is 8 weeks i not enough. Generally 10 weeks is a more appropriate time frame. If you do that yes, it ensures they are no longer carriers and tank is disease free. Qt and DT needs to be in separate rooms and they should never share any wet equipment, including the fish net.

Ruby reef rally is snake oil. Only thing it will achieve will be making you $10 poorer.
 
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