Fixing crack in a Nalgene carboy

newty

newty

New member
I got my hands on a rectangular Nalgene carboy that has a crack on the front bottom corner (outlined in red). The crack is barely perceptible, but still leaks very slowly; hence, the reason why recieved the carboy. I want to fix the crack so that I can use this as a kalk top-off sytem. However, I do not know how to patch the crack. As well, I do not know if the plastic carboy is polypropylene or polyurethane. Any ideas out there

5867306082901.jpg


Shawn
 
IT is more than likely HDPE... so any HDPE glue will likely work. Though it is a $50 container, it is likely more trouble than it is worth. You can get similar containers for the cost of the glue and trouble of the patch.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13209135#post13209135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismunn
pump some silicone in there and smear it over the crack from inside the conrtainer.
Click to expand...

It will not stick to HDPE.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13208925#post13208925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
IT is more than likely HDPE... so any HDPE glue will likely work. Though it is a $50 container, it is likely more trouble than it is worth. You can get similar containers for the cost of the glue and trouble of the patch.
Click to expand...
+1 in general, usually HDPE or PP and not worth the trouble. There are some however that run a coupla hundred $$ and might be worth fixing. If it's one of the bigger expensive ones, take it to a plastics guy that does hot air welding or do it yourself if'n ya want to buy the set-up. Might also look at an RV repair facility to see if they'll weld it back for you, they weld plastic tanks often enough to be well practiced.

HTH,
James
 
We ordered a new carboy to replace the one I took home (same model). I took a look at the specification sheet, and you are right, it is HDPE. This tank is a 20 L capacity container, laboratory grade, and these tanks last for manty, many years. I would love to repair this container if it is possible as these items go for $120-150 dollars. However, as it appears, the best advice from above is to basically throw it away. Gluing or welding likely would cost too much or not worth the effort it it still leaks in the end.

Thanks for the responses,
Shawn
 
This may sound silly, but what if you simply turned it upside down? Tighten the cap, cut a milk crate or fab a little stand, make a new fill hole and a new drain.

That said, it is only 5g, you could use a bucket:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13235833#post13235833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
This may sound silly, but what if you simply turned it upside down? Tighten the cap, cut a milk crate or fab a little stand, make a new fill hole and a new drain.

That said, it is only 5g, you could use a bucket:D
Click to expand...

I was excited about this carboy because then I could easily use this conatiner for dosing kalk. As you said, a regular 'ol bucket would work as well in this case, just have to drill a hole in the bottom.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13236020#post13236020 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saveafish
this stuff will hold
http://www.kayakfishinggear.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=100
Click to expand...

I am about to see if I can get the crack in the carboy welded back together for a relatively cheap price. If not, then I may try the marine goop since I have nothing else to lose but 5 bucks with marine goop.

Shawn
 
You kinda have to work fast with the marine goop. but I love it. if I want it to dry faster I use a hair dryer on it. It is like a simi stiff sillycon when dry. The marine goop is one of thoes items that isnt talked about much but should be on hand if you have a saltwater tank. if it dont cure all the way befor water hits it it will dry milky looking. If cured it is clear.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13238622#post13238622 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saveafish
You kinda have to work fast with the marine goop. but I love it. if I want it to dry faster I use a hair dryer on it. It is like a simi stiff sillycon when dry. The marine goop is one of thoes items that isnt talked about much but should be on hand if you have a saltwater tank. if it dont cure all the way befor water hits it it will dry milky looking. If cured it is clear.
Click to expand...

At a cost of anywhere between $50 and $125 as has been suggested here, I agree that a $5 tube of Marine Goop wouldn't be a waste fo money, and would certainly be worth the minimal effort. And as also suggested, the stuff is really good to have around.
 
My LFS sells a similar container filled with RO/DI for $6. That would be 20 of them for the cost of the above item. For me it just isnt worth the repair and uncertainty.
 
A Kia dealership sells a "similar product" to the Mercedes dealership down the street as well. Compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges, not apples to oranges because you get what you pay for.
 
yeah... but who needs superior chemical inertness for top-off :)

I would add durability, but that would somewhat beg the question as to why the naglene container needs repaired in the first place :)
 
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