Does anyone know of any local stores that cell float switches? Was hoping to work on something this weekend vs. waiting until next week (if I were to order online).
RJ - While I would normally advise getting quality float switches - regardless of procurement delays - I do have components that will work very well in a DIY setting for someone in a hurry.
More specifically, I've got powerful magnets. And I've got magnetic switches. And floats. So strapping a powerful magnet to a float, that moves by a magnetic switch is the essence of a float switch. That's why i have them - I was working on a custom float switch application.
However, you're better off - IMO - buying commercial stuff.
But if you are in a huge hurry, I may be able to help.
Well...not in a huge hurry, but in addition to working on it this weekend, I thought I'd also try to support a LFS before going online.
However, called around yesterday and no one has any so I'm likely going to purchase them online from www.aquahub.com (unless someone has some other sources). If someone would like to order from here and split shipping or get free shipping, let me know by Monday evening. That should be enough time to get them in and I can bring them to next week's meeting or your can pick them up from my house (Trumbull) or at my work (Norwalk).
Steve -- thanks for planting the seed about magnetic switches. I was planning on rigging something together to make a few "water low" sensors, but am concerned about the float switch failing since they'd be submerged (though there seem to be solutions in place to keep the tops of the switch dry). However with a magnetic switch, that would solve the problem...will need to look into that a bit more or pick your brain for ideas.
RJ - I've spent literally hundreds of dollars on water level sensing of every form. And that's not on solutions... that's just educating myself on the options. My 180g automatically changes about 1/5 of it's water every night. There's a bulkhead hole in the bottom of the tank that connects to a water line that terminates on a pressure sensor. And when that senor says the tank's almost full - filling stops.
That little jewel only cost $20. But knowing what tool to use for critical water depth sensing took hundreds. I'd like think this is a topic I know a little about. So if I can help, pls gimme a yell.
The JBJ ATO is no good as a one stop solution? I'm considering that for my 90 (just gotta find a spot underneath for the reservoir - gettin' crowded down there. If that's still cool; RJ, I might be up for tagging along with you on the shipping.
But knowing what tool to use for critical water depth sensing took hundreds. I'd like think this is a topic I know a little about. So if I can help, pls gimme a yell.
Steve - I'll be in touch. Trying to make Sunday's meeting so perhaps we can chat a bit then. Would like to hear what you've come up with for "water low" type solutions.
The JBJ ATO is no good as a one stop solution? I'm considering that for my 90 (just gotta find a spot underneath for the reservoir - gettin' crowded down there. If that's still cool; RJ, I might be up for tagging along with you on the shipping.
I actually use a JBJ right now for my tank. The issue is that I have no room underneath my tank so the top-off reservoir sits next to my tank in full view (a nice bright orange bucket). Outside of that, I have no issues with it other than lugging up another 5 gallons every few days. I'm replacing this setup with a reservoir and peristaltic pump in my basement controlled by my Apex and some float switches.
Well, I'm ordering the regular float switches tomorrow morning from aquahub. If you would like to jump in, let me know by 7am tomorrow and I'll include you (or anyone else for that matter).
Steve - I'll be in touch. Trying to make Sunday's meeting so perhaps we can chat a bit then. Would like to hear what you've come up with for "water low" type solutions.
Happy to chat. Will try to bring some "toys" for you to play with.
Also FWIW, IMO it's generally to test for the loss of an electrical signal than the presence of one. Too many things can go wrong. It's better to get the occasional false negative, than to miss a positive due to equipment malfunction. And to state the obvious... IMO the most important thing in the design process is building in redundancy. To know where to do that you have to think through the consequences of the failure of every component in the system, and gauging the risks of that. Don't waste time on the "how" - or cause - of a component failure. Nature will find a way. Just assume that it did fail and assess the consequences. That will lead you to an understanding of where you need redundancy.
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