Floridiot's 157 Nano build

I LOVE the setup...but i'm trying to figure out how all this costs less that a nano...and is cheaper...

on a side note...I wanted this tank so bad (if it's the tank that was for sale not too long ago) and think the proportions are amazing! If I ever get a bigger tank I will deff have a 30-36 front to back tank. I'm so jealous and can't wait to see this setup!

why not 2 175's? it shoulda be that much electricity or heat...or are you planning on vho's or something else to add to the single 175?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13310699#post13310699 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefWreak

One suggestion I would have is no sand. I dunno how you feel about it (obviously you like sand or you wouldn't have just mentioned it) but after all my experience I'm a firm believer that filtration capacity and efficiency is increased through higher flow and bare bottom. You're going for maximum practical efficiency, which I totally dig, so it might be a thought.

I'm a big fan of the single 175w high output bulb in a good reflector with a wider deeper tank versus the standard long and high tank. Finally a tank that can stick it to those T5 efficiency nuts :p (I can't talk about that from experience as I've got effectively 1kw of lights just over my tank :( )

If I could start from scratch and have the money to do what you're doing, that's exactly the setup type that I would have going. I believe jar*head's old setup was similar, the deep cube look with centered lighting (though I'm almost certain he put much more lighting over the tank). It was great with a rock pillar in the center. A few people have done the center pillar which I like.

Some other ideas may be 4 corners of rockpiles (the two front ones you could watch the cryptic dark zones and see what goes on) and maybe a small pile in the center to put some lower light SPS on, to form a center piece of sorts.

Dunno, these are just some ideas and props, but I'm sure you've got your setup planned almost to the T, and it shows, and it's looking great.
Click to expand...

I agree with the fact of sand cutting into the filtration efficiency, but I just can't get used to the barebottom look. My last setup was BB, but it never really grew on me. I do plan again on high flow, which is why I'm going with the slightly larger substrate size.

The skimmer I'm getting is highly regarded as being fully capable of handling most 180G SPS systems. My system will have a total water volume of about 145 gallons (120 in display & 25 in the sump). Between this skimmer and the chaeto I'll be growing in the sump, I believe that I won't have any issues regarding filtration capacity even if the sand reduces it somewhat.

As far as rock work, thanks for the ideas. I'm pretty sure I want to keep a center island type of setup. I want to see sand all the way around. The only place the rock may touch the glass is in the center rear where it may lean on the overflow. When diving, this is what I'm used to seeing. A coral head just popping up from the bottom. I'm not 100% sold on this structure, its just the first thing I'm going to try. Once I set it up, I'll know for sure if it's going to be what stays.

I also don't plan on building the rock structure any higher than about 15" at the highest point. Although the tank is 24" tall, the bottom glass is 3/4", and the water level will stay about 1 1/4" from the top. This makes for a total water height of 22". A 15" high reef still leaves 7" of water for coral growth.

I also was one of those T5 efficiency nuts, but I missed the glitter lines. Glitter lines are one of those subliminal things that just make a tank pop.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13310793#post13310793 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by macawmagic
I LOVE the setup...but i'm trying to figure out how all this costs less that a nano...and is cheaper...

on a side note...I wanted this tank so bad (if it's the tank that was for sale not too long ago) and think the proportions are amazing! If I ever get a bigger tank I will deff have a 30-36 front to back tank. I'm so jealous and can't wait to see this setup!

why not 2 175's? it shoulda be that much electricity or heat...or are you planning on vho's or something else to add to the single 175?
Click to expand...

As far as comparing it to a nano in cost, I did mention that it will cost less than SOME nanos. The link I posted above was one example of a nano that costs more than my setup.

As far as electrical efficiency goes, I've seen many nanos which use 250W HQI halides. Most 250W HQIs draw well over 300 watts of electricity (the XM bulb draws 374 watts). Compare that to my Iwasaki which draws 165 watts, and right there is a huge energy savings. This doesn't even include the fact that a nano with this kind of light is almost certainly going to need a chiller.

Add up all the equipment in my tank, and compare it to the nanos using MH bulbs, and you'll be surprised to see my tank uses about the same or even less electricity.

As far as the lighting, I see no reason to use more than one bulb. I won't be supplementing with anything. If I determine the Iwasaki isn't providing enough light, I'll upgrade the ballast and bulb later on. I'll cross that road if I come to it, but I don't think it will be an issue.
 
if you like the look of sand and the practicality of BB you could always use a piece of starboard with an epoxy coated in sand to give the effect of sand?

not sure if it's been tried but i've considered doing it, and i've done something similar with freshwater tanks before
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13311899#post13311899 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jojoyojimbi
if you like the look of sand and the practicality of BB you could always use a piece of starboard with an epoxy coated in sand to give the effect of sand?

not sure if it's been tried but i've considered doing it, and i've done something similar with freshwater tanks before
Click to expand...

I had the starboard bottom in my previous BB tank, and it quickly turned purple as the coralline overtook it. Epoxying sand to it wouldn't help much since it would still be purple in six months. Thanks for idea though.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13314482#post13314482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Floridiot
I had the starboard bottom in my previous BB tank, and it quickly turned purple as the coralline overtook it. Epoxying sand to it wouldn't help much since it would still be purple in six months. Thanks for idea though.
Click to expand...

ah, didn't think of the coralline
 
Time for an update. I now have freshwater in the tank, and have tested the plumbing. All is well. The new Iwaki MD20RLXT I got is so silent, it is almost freaky. The only way you'd know its running is by touching it. My second Iwaki (older one) is the American model, and although it too is quiet, it can still be heard within about a 5' range. I've only hooked up the new MD pump so far. I also tested it on the kilowatt meter, and it draws only 33 watts when running.

I have setup my rock work in the tank, but I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it the way I have it or not just yet. I'm going to hook up my Tunzes, and add some sand to the bottom of the tank to see if I can place them in such a way that they're somewhat hidden, I get good flow, and can keep the sand on the bottom. Once I get it right, I'll post some pics. With this preliminary rock structure I've built, I'm only using about a third of the rock I got from TheOtherReefer. I'll most likely be selling off the rest of it once I'm satisfied with my tank.

Next is my calcium reactor. I stumbled on a great deal from James77 where I picked up a Coralife 500 reactor delivered for $55. He said he wasn't sure if it worked, but I wasn't planning on using it as is anyways. All I wanted to know was if it leaked. I doesn't, so I modded it out as you can see in the pics below:


13290reactor.JPG


13290reactor2.JPG


I especially like the screw off lid and the fact that it holds a full gallon of ARM. I added a $60 Eheim 1048, and about $40 worth of pvc plumbing parts which include a 1/4" pvc needle valve which is not yet installed. US Plastics sent me a barbed valve when I ordered a 1/4" FNPT version. They are sending me a replacement which should be here by Monday. The needle valve will screw on nipple you see coming out of the top of the reactor lid. I have about $155 total into this reactor, and it will work every bit as good as most $400 units. The Eheim only draws 10 watts.
 
Another thing I forgot to mention was that I still have not received the H&S skimmer I won on ebay. It has been a month since the auction closed, and the seller has stopped responding to my emails. I will be filing a claim with PP tomorrow unless I hear back from the seller with something concrete AKA a tracking number.

I've remedied this situation though. I've placed an order for the new generation 2 BK Mini 200 thru Premium Aquatics. I did get responses from a few locals who could get me a discount if I went through them, but it wouldn't have been much. I also would've had to pay them cash and then wait for about 2 to 3 weeks for delivery. I'm sure most people here are honest, but I'm not too fond of giving strangers large amounts of cash to order something for me with a 2 to 3 week lead time. I also won't have all the cash available until I get my refund from the H&S I never received. If for some reason I do receive the H&S, I don't think I'll have any trouble selling it for what I paid.

This purchase will put me over my original planned budget, but still keep my total cost below that of Jasonanatal's JBJ 28 gallon nano. I sure hope the BK mini 200 is all it is cracked up to be, cause it sure ain't cheap.
 
ive never regreted my bk purchase. not to say there arent comparable skimmers but yours will be as effecetive as any.
 
great set up....love your tank and its dimensions....I too agree that your one bulb will be enough especially when considering the dimensions of the tank. And since you say you want to keep the SPS to the middle youll have no problem at all. Please keep the pics coming.....thanks for sharing.
 
Here's some pics of the rock work I did. I'm not overly enthused with this, and I may (probably will) change it. It does look better in person than it does on film because I'm not too good with the camera. If I do change it, the new version will be very similar in overall structure.

I wanted to be able to place the tunzes low in the tank and hide them behind the rocks when looking from the front, yet still get good flow. This I was able to accomplish. I was also able to point them upwards enough to keep the sand on the bottom. I will be adding two or three pieces of Live rock to this for seeding purposes, but it won't be anytime soon thanks to my going over budget with the BK200.

Right now, the tank is drained. I just fired up the my 60 GPD RO unit, so it will take me a couple of days to fill the tank.

Here's two pics from the front:

13290empty_rock_1.jpg


13290empty_rock_2.jpg


Here are pics from each side near the rear:

13290empty_rock_3.jpg


13290empty_rock_4.jpg


Here's a top down view:

13290empty_rock_7.jpg
 
Well, it looks like I'm not the only one who was happy to see the UPS guy today.

13290Skimmer1.JPG


I will be unboxing this later tonight.
 
wow, nice skimmer, you added water already i can see. lets see a FTS. I really like the dimensions of the tank.
 
Looks very very nice! This tank is plain beautiful

JOB well done- very nice- I want some water to test my BK but pending a couple of details plus plumming and other gadgets like a frag tank and my tank will be up and running.

One more thing make sure that the BK on the area of the sump has a constant water level since they are fine tune pieces of equipment and will not work properly with variable levels .



Again great tank and thought process!
 
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