Now and again something new comes along in this hobby. This is semi-new. It does work to stop unstoppable algae---and probably any green algae you have, including algae you want, so be warned.
It does not seem to affect the zooxanthellae (photosynthetic elements in corals and such) or bother corals or fish. Experience is largely with experienced hobbyists who do follow instructions pretty well and who also tend to have good equipment like good skimmers, and who are applying this after other methods have failed. So apply that to yourself, and follow instructions, and don't leap to do this without thought and preparation.
Fluconazole kills plant life. Algaes. Probably it would kill your refugium algae, so remove that and put it in strong light with bubbler if you hope to save it. A turf scrubber probably would not fare well with this treatment, either.
If you have blennies or tangs or other algae-dependent fish, this may kill off something they need: be sure they're ok on hand-supplied nori or flake or eating something YOU can supply. Copepods are also, as I recall, dependent on algae, so if you trash the algae, you may take out your pods, and if you have any fish dependent on pods, this is a no-go.
You have to follow instructions precisely. Dose the right amount, do NOT have your water level changing radically (this changes concentrations of everything from salt to trace elements and meds)---so have an autotopoff that works. Hydor SmartLevel makes an inexpensive one that works if you set it up right.
You need to give it time. Wait the full recommended time with your skimmer off (it would froth like mad if you turned it on too early plus possibly mess up your dosage) And when you get down to turning the skimmer back on and WAITING, give it at least 4 weeks. Read the instructions and re-read them at every stage of this operation.
You finish with some major water changes, and if your skimmer is not the best going, do some successive major water changes, like 30% one week, 30% the next, then back to 10% a week. And use ro/di water for making your salt water, or you are just recreating the problem you just fixed.
By the end of it all, a month or so on, hopefully you will have a pretty algae-free tank. I have used it, it worked well, and it is fairly inexpensive compared to other treatments.
Others who have used it, chime in, please.
It does not seem to affect the zooxanthellae (photosynthetic elements in corals and such) or bother corals or fish. Experience is largely with experienced hobbyists who do follow instructions pretty well and who also tend to have good equipment like good skimmers, and who are applying this after other methods have failed. So apply that to yourself, and follow instructions, and don't leap to do this without thought and preparation.
Fluconazole kills plant life. Algaes. Probably it would kill your refugium algae, so remove that and put it in strong light with bubbler if you hope to save it. A turf scrubber probably would not fare well with this treatment, either.
If you have blennies or tangs or other algae-dependent fish, this may kill off something they need: be sure they're ok on hand-supplied nori or flake or eating something YOU can supply. Copepods are also, as I recall, dependent on algae, so if you trash the algae, you may take out your pods, and if you have any fish dependent on pods, this is a no-go.
You have to follow instructions precisely. Dose the right amount, do NOT have your water level changing radically (this changes concentrations of everything from salt to trace elements and meds)---so have an autotopoff that works. Hydor SmartLevel makes an inexpensive one that works if you set it up right.
You need to give it time. Wait the full recommended time with your skimmer off (it would froth like mad if you turned it on too early plus possibly mess up your dosage) And when you get down to turning the skimmer back on and WAITING, give it at least 4 weeks. Read the instructions and re-read them at every stage of this operation.
You finish with some major water changes, and if your skimmer is not the best going, do some successive major water changes, like 30% one week, 30% the next, then back to 10% a week. And use ro/di water for making your salt water, or you are just recreating the problem you just fixed.
By the end of it all, a month or so on, hopefully you will have a pretty algae-free tank. I have used it, it worked well, and it is fairly inexpensive compared to other treatments.
Others who have used it, chime in, please.